Mill Creek, UT

Mill Creek, UT

Mill Creek is a short hike to a nice pool with some shorter cliff diving, making it a popular destination. If you’re truly adventurous, treat yourself and hike further up  the canyon to another pool.  It does not have the sheer cliffs of the lower pool, but it is much more secluded. If you climb up the small waterfall at the end of the pool you can walk around to a small natural water slide. The waterfall is the destination for most, but continuing up canyon provides a nice hike in a beautiful setting.

Climbing areas nearby:
All the awesomeness near Moab.

Getting there:
From downtown Moab, head east on Center Street, turn right on 400 E, then left on Mill Creek Dr. Follow Mill Creek Dr. when it bears right at Sand Flats Rd. Finally, left on Powerhouse Lane until it ends at a dirt parking area. From the pullout you will see the trail heading east on the south (right) side of the stream. Less than 5 minutes from the car is a sandstone gorge below a small dam that provides a great place to hangout a short distance from the car.
For the more adventurous, continue heading up canyon, staying on the well-used trail. The trail crosses the stream a few times, so don’t be afraid to get your feet wet right from the start.

Paradise Cove, CO

Paradise Cove, CO

Paradise cove used to be a word-of-mouth, locals-only hangout. Today it’s much easier to find this retreat, thanks to blabby writers like us. Here you’ll find sheer rock leading down to a very respectable pool.  The pool is deep enough that only the truly brave touch bottom, and the water is free of obstacles.  There is something for everyone — from the tame 16 foot jump to the crazy 100 footer.  There are also plenty of sun-soaked rocks to warm up on.  Year round the water is brisk at best. Best visited on really hot days.

Climbing areas nearby:
Eleven Mile Canyon.
Everything else in the South Platte

Getting there:
From Colorado Springs, drive west on U.S. Highway 24 for 26 mi. About a mile past Divide, turn left onto Twin Rocks Road. Drive 5.8 miles until the road dead ends at Teller County Road 1. Turn left and drive 5.9 miles to a fork in the road. Veer right on Teller County Road 11 and continue 4 miles until the road dead ends. Turn right onto Teller County Road 112. Drive 2.7 miles to a dirt parking lot on the left at the top of a small rise. The trail to the cove starts across the road. Follow a clear a half a mile to the pool.

Split Rock, NY -- Photo: Kate Galecki

Split Rock, NY

The Mohonk Preserve outside New Paltz, NY is a climbing mecca. Home of the ‘Gunks’, the Mohonk preserve attracts thousands of climbers from around the world each year. However, during the summer, the heat and humidity can be nothing short of brutal. A dip in Split Rock can be more than just a welcome relief. Although Split Rock may not be the biggest secret, there are many places to swim in and around the preserve but Split Rock is not only the most secluded and serene but also contains the coolest water.

Climbing areas nearby:
The Gunks

Getting there:
From New Paltz head west on Co Rd. 299 until it dead ends. Make a left onto Hwy. 44 for about 1.5 mi. Go under the small bridge and follow the road to the bottom of the hill and look for the parking area on the right. From the parking lot head south on the trail to the Trapps and make the first left. In a few hundred yards find your refreshing oasis. You are required to have a preserve permit to use the area but if you show up early enough you may sneak by before the ranger station is staffed. Obviously, reverse the direction if you are coming right off the crag.

The red rock of Tusher Canyon

“Get two good hand jams and just do a pull up.” Brian calmly informs me.

“Oh, just a pull up with a hand jam? Is that all?”

“Yep, there are no good feet, you just have to go for it.”

Brian’s instructions do not inspire much confidence, but I do as I’m told and put my flat hands into the crack as far as I can and retract my fingers into my palm to create counter-force between the heel of my palm and the top of my knuckles against the warm sandstone. It feels as if I am climbing on 100 grit sandpaper as I apply enough force to effectively hold my body weight, if just barely. I can feel the skin being grated off my hands. This sacrifice, to be repeated time and again the next few days, it’s a rite of passage into the world of crack climbing. No tape on this trip, it is a sacrifice after all.

To those that are strictly face climbers, cracks are something of a mystery. I have always been intrigued by cracks and those that venture to some of the most remote corners of the world to climb them.

As the owner of Front Range Climbing Company, Brian is a climber with an ability far beyond what I can even comprehend. Luckily, he is a good enough friend to tolerate my weak climbing abilities and complete lack of crack experience and invite me along with a few other guides, Mark, CJ, and Josh from Front Range Climbing Company to a desert climb outside Moab, Utah. Although the area surrounding Moab lays claim to some of the most visited desert climbing meccas in the world (including Indian Creek) there still are some areas that are relatively unexplored. Tusher Canyon is a favorite spot of Brian’s. Located about 30 minutes northwest of Moab, Tusher could almost be considered deserted wilderness. In the three days I spent climbing in Tusher Canyon I saw only one other vehicle, the driver of which was apparently too preoccupied with air conditioning to exit. Thankfully, this lack of spectators allows me to retain some of my dignity as I begin my pull-up and flail with my feet for anything they may help in my desperate bid for ‘up.’

The author tries his hand at 'Piece of Shit, Pile of Monkey Nuts' (5.11+)

I finally manage to complete the opening move and begin to link hand jams with wedging my foot into the crack and twisting it to create something to stand on, a process known as ‘jamming,’ progressing about two body lengths much to the surprise of myself and all parties concerned. A rest is in order and I take the time to examine my hands which roughly resemble hamburger meat and leave small blood stains on the already red sandstone. I smile. The joy of being here overcomes the pain from my hands. Onward and upward! After a few more moves the crack begins to open until it’s large enough for me to arm-bar for my life. I rest. I can hear my belayer, Mark above me feeding me some much needed beta and I contemplate the next move. I Rest. Using what can only be described as an awkward shimmy I mange to move up higher into the expanding crack and make use of a chest jam. I rest. After what seems like an eternity I work my way high enough to make use of the coveted, but rarely used, ass jam. It becomes a shimmy up the crack using any means available. Chimney, counter-force, jams, it’s all fair game at this point. I rest. I feel slightly trapped as I struggle (in what can only be described as flailing) and finally see Mark, a welcome sight. I was exhausted and at the time was thinking maybe the desert was just too much for me. Maybe I had bitten of more than I could chew. Maybe these guys are just too far out of my league. But as the exhaustion was overcome by a feeling of euphoria I realized the two days I had left wouldn’t cure my new-found lust for crack climbing. Who knows, it may even become love.

That night we sat around the campfire. Mark played the guitar and sang. We all drank and joked. We laughed and told stories and made fun of one another. We slept in the sand and in the back of trucks. Out here the wind blows the fine sand into every nook and cranny and my sleeping bag was no exception. The next morning broke cool and bright. Brian and Mark were already up making breakfast. I would need as much bacon as I could consume if I were to make it through the day’s activities. I eat. I silently question what I am doing out here with these guys. Then I hear Brian ask “ready?”, and I do what I always do, get up and grab some gear.

The names escape me. Rubber Duck, Merge, Pile of Shit – Monkey Nuts, and a host of other oddly named routes chew at my hands and build my fondness for cracks, fueling my desire to return. There were triumphs and heartache and pain. Lots of pain. But mostly there was love. Love for the rock, the climbing, the people. But mostly there was love for the place.

Looking out the window on Echo Pinnacle

Seeing the rock in Tusher Canyon is nothing short of inspirational. Some blood red, some gray, some black. Multi-colored layers on all. Cracks can extend 300 feet into the sky on what may be some of the straightest, sharpest lines rivaling those made by man. A religious experience to be sure.

On the last day we climbed the Echo Pinnacle. The Pinnacle climbs 270 straight out of the desert and at the top of the first pitch there is a large protected ledge and window that looks out to the East and West. Here we eat, talk, joke and laugh.

We drive out of the canyon on that third day with the intense desert sun setting behind us as I reflect on the past couple of days. Cracks, it turns out, are all that I had expected and more. I expected the climbing to be hard. I underestimated them. The skin will regrow, but what will forever remain is my desire for more cracks.

Logistics:

Tusher Canyon lies about 30 minutes north of Moab, UT on US 191 and is easily accessed from I-70. Outside Moab, UT. What passes for roads in the canyon are more like trails — rough and possibly impassable during some parts of the year. A high-clearance vehicle is recommended. Many areas of the canyon are rather developed whereas others have just a handful of routes with plenty of lines to be explored. Although you may run across a few climbers on Echo Pinnacle, if you continue deeper into the canyon to a dead end you can access the areas of Putterman, Neighbor of Putterman, and Convoy walls where chances are good you will be alone, even on the busiest of weekends. Not many people have attempted climbs back here and the potential for new routes is still high.

Tusher Canyon is owned by the BLM and as such primitive camping is allowed around Tusher Canyon (although not in the dead-end canyon). Other facilities are not available without making the trip back to Moab. Obviously, water can be very scarce in the canyon so make sure you have sufficient quantity (more than you think you’ll need) before setting out. Back in Moab you’ll have all the facilities you could ask for. Pagan Mountaineering (59 South Main St. #2 Moab UT 84532 Phone: 435-259-1117) is the source for gear, and restaurants and hotels are plentiful. Weather can be a major consideration as the heat can be unbearable in the dead of summer. Early spring and late fall are perfect candidates for an epic desert trip.

Alternate Climbs:

If you’re looking for just a quick climb in the area, Wall Street (located on Route 279) is a good place for a quick send, although solitude is not something you will find here, especially on weekends. And, of course, Arches and Canyonlands National Parks are both great places for some climbing in their own right.

Toyota trucks climbing some fins

For those interested in off road and 4-wheel driving, the ‘must see’ destination is Moab, UT. Moab is known around the world as the center of the 4×4 universe, mainly due to it’s fair weather and ‘slickrock’ trails. For our first ever trip to Moab, we made the 7 hour journey from Colorado for the annual Cruise Moab event.

Cruise Moab is a Toyota-only event sponsored by the Rising Sun 4 Wheel Drive club out of Denver, CO. They’re part of the Toyota-Land Cruiser Association (TLCA), a nationwide Toyota 4×4 club. This years’ event featured over 100 Toyota 4×4 trucks, nearly 400 people, and plenty of vendors selling everything from roof racks to suspension lifts.

We managed to run two trails with the Cruise Moab group, and then set out for one on our own the last day. While there are dozens of off road trails in the Moab area, we opted to go with two of the most scenic trails for our group runs.

Narrow & steep on Elephant Hill

About 90 minutes south of Moab is Canyonlands National Park, and Elephant Hill trail. If you’re looking for a moderate trail with amazing views – this is the one to try. It will take a slightly modified vehicle (a lift and larger tires are helpful) in some sections, and a fair bit of driver skill is necessary. If you’re not new to off road driving, you should have no problem navigating the obstacles on this 17 mile trail. There is one section that requires you to back down (and then back up on the way out), so make sure you have a good spotter and take your time. Toward the end of the loop you’ll have an opportunity to hike out to an area that overlooks the Colorado River. You’ll want to plan to be on the trail for the entire day, so bring plenty of food and extra water. One other important note: while pets are allowed in the park, due to the sensitive soil they are not permitted on back country and 4×4 roads, so leave them at home for this trip.

Perhaps the most famous trail in Moab is Fins N’ Things. This easy to moderate trail gets its name due to the large rock fins that you spend most of your time driving on. This is the classic ‘slickrock’ that Moab is famous for, and Fins N’ Things has plenty of it. There are two different legs of the trail, totaling about 10 miles of trail driving. While this trail is fairly easy for experienced off road drivers, you’ll still want to make sure you have a good spotter for some of the sections. A rear differential locker is needed for some of the obstacles, but there is usually a bypass.

When you’re not on a trail in Moab, there’s still plenty to do. There are several micro-breweries in town, and many of the restaurants are top-notch. We really enjoyed the burgers and brew at the Moab Brewery, on South Main St. They feature eight types of beer, so you’re sure to find one that suits you.
For breakfast, our favorite place was the Jailhouse Café. It’s so named because it’s actually housed in the original Moab jail house. The food is excellent, but the prices are a little on the steep side.

La Sal Mountains

There are literally dozens of places to stay in Moab. If you’re ready for a regular room after a day on the trail, you have a choice of nearly every hotel chain somewhere along main street. For campers, there are a couple of really great campgrounds to choose from. The main Cruise Moab event was held at the Slickrock Campground, which is very large has plenty of trees. We opted to stay at the Moab Rim Campark, just south of downtown Moab. We were able to get a cabin that included 1 queen bed, 2 bunkbeds, a kitchenette, and a small bathroom. The best part was that Moab Rim allows pets, so our two medium sized dogs felt right at home.

If you’re in to off road driving and haven’t been, you’ll want to make plans to get out to Moab. The trails and scenery are world class, and there are plenty of fun activities to keep the entire family entertained. If you like the group feel, check out Cruise Moab, Easter Jeep Safari, or any of the other events held annually. Of course you can always just gather your friends for a self-guided tour of slickrock country. Either way, you’re sure to have an amazing time in Moab.