Trekking Great Sand Dunes National Monument, Colorado

Table of Contents:
A photographer works to get the last light in Sand Dunes National Monument, Colorado.
Photo: Nate Burgess

Sunset, Tamarindo, Costa RicaExposed:

Exposed:
The sun sets over the beach of Tamarindo, Costa Rica
Nikon D200, 1/350, f10, 100iso
Photo: Elizabeth Cox

Halstatt Lake, Salzkammergut, Austria

Exposed:
Halstatt, Salzkammergut, Austria
Nikin D200, 1/80, f4.8, 100iso
Photo: Ryan Kirkland

Lightning strikes the Arizone Desert

Exposed:
Lightning strikes the desert in Arizona. Lightning is common during the summer monsoon season.
Nikon D700, 15s, f4.5, 200iso
Photo: Nate Burgess

Tuna at the Tsukiji Fish Market, Tokyo, Japan

Exposed:
A Tuna awaits processing at the Tsukiji Fish Market, Tokyo, Japan
Nikin D200, 1/3, f5.3, 100iso
Photo: Erick Pound

Sunrise over Monument Valley, Arizona

Back Cover:
Sunrise over the Monument Valley, Arizona.

Mill Creek, UT

Mill Creek, UT

Mill Creek is a short hike to a nice pool with some shorter cliff diving, making it a popular destination. If you’re truly adventurous, treat yourself and hike further up  the canyon to another pool.  It does not have the sheer cliffs of the lower pool, but it is much more secluded. If you climb up the small waterfall at the end of the pool you can walk around to a small natural water slide. The waterfall is the destination for most, but continuing up canyon provides a nice hike in a beautiful setting.

Climbing areas nearby:
All the awesomeness near Moab.

Getting there:
From downtown Moab, head east on Center Street, turn right on 400 E, then left on Mill Creek Dr. Follow Mill Creek Dr. when it bears right at Sand Flats Rd. Finally, left on Powerhouse Lane until it ends at a dirt parking area. From the pullout you will see the trail heading east on the south (right) side of the stream. Less than 5 minutes from the car is a sandstone gorge below a small dam that provides a great place to hangout a short distance from the car.
For the more adventurous, continue heading up canyon, staying on the well-used trail. The trail crosses the stream a few times, so don’t be afraid to get your feet wet right from the start.

Paradise Cove, CO

Paradise Cove, CO

Paradise cove used to be a word-of-mouth, locals-only hangout. Today it’s much easier to find this retreat, thanks to blabby writers like us. Here you’ll find sheer rock leading down to a very respectable pool.  The pool is deep enough that only the truly brave touch bottom, and the water is free of obstacles.  There is something for everyone — from the tame 16 foot jump to the crazy 100 footer.  There are also plenty of sun-soaked rocks to warm up on.  Year round the water is brisk at best. Best visited on really hot days.

Climbing areas nearby:
Eleven Mile Canyon.
Everything else in the South Platte

Getting there:
From Colorado Springs, drive west on U.S. Highway 24 for 26 mi. About a mile past Divide, turn left onto Twin Rocks Road. Drive 5.8 miles until the road dead ends at Teller County Road 1. Turn left and drive 5.9 miles to a fork in the road. Veer right on Teller County Road 11 and continue 4 miles until the road dead ends. Turn right onto Teller County Road 112. Drive 2.7 miles to a dirt parking lot on the left at the top of a small rise. The trail to the cove starts across the road. Follow a clear a half a mile to the pool.

Split Rock, NY -- Photo: Kate Galecki

Split Rock, NY

The Mohonk Preserve outside New Paltz, NY is a climbing mecca. Home of the ‘Gunks’, the Mohonk preserve attracts thousands of climbers from around the world each year. However, during the summer, the heat and humidity can be nothing short of brutal. A dip in Split Rock can be more than just a welcome relief. Although Split Rock may not be the biggest secret, there are many places to swim in and around the preserve but Split Rock is not only the most secluded and serene but also contains the coolest water.

Climbing areas nearby:
The Gunks

Getting there:
From New Paltz head west on Co Rd. 299 until it dead ends. Make a left onto Hwy. 44 for about 1.5 mi. Go under the small bridge and follow the road to the bottom of the hill and look for the parking area on the right. From the parking lot head south on the trail to the Trapps and make the first left. In a few hundred yards find your refreshing oasis. You are required to have a preserve permit to use the area but if you show up early enough you may sneak by before the ranger station is staffed. Obviously, reverse the direction if you are coming right off the crag.

http://www.theadventurelife.org/2010/04/rediscovered-century-old-map-more-than-doubles-colorados-ghost-towns/

http://www.fs.fed.us/r2/recreation/map/colorado/html-current/colorado-hi-speed-index.shtml

Brian Shelton

I posted last week that a friend of Adventure Insider underwent surgery to have a tumor removed from his brain.  I am please to inform you that the surgery went well and Brian is on his way to recovery and looks forward to getting back on belay.  In the mean time the climbing competition to raise money for this expensive surgery is planned for April 3, 2010 at the Sport Climbing Center in Colorado Springs, Colorado.  Registration will begin at 5:30 and the competition will begin at 6:00.  The cost is $10 for a very worth cause.  Don’t worry about you climbing ability, there will be prizes for all abilities in addition to raffles and an all around good time.  A party will follow the competition.  Members of Adventure Insider will be there including Erick, Shane, and CJ.  Great prizes have been donated by Patagonia, Mountain Hardwear, Prana, Outdoor Research, Black Diamond, Diver’s Reef, and NOLS to name a few.  If you have questions please leave a comment and we will get back to you.

We hope to see you there!

For many years my roommates and I had passes to Ski Cooper, near Leadville, Colorado. Cooper is one of the smallest ski areas in Colorado, but it’s extremely family friendly. The lifts are slower, the runs are shorter, and it’s generally a more relaxing atmosphere than larger resorts.

After we married, Angie and I decided to take advantage of the Liberty Pass offered by Vail resorts. This special pass for military members offers unlimited skiing at Keystone and Arapahoe Basin for less than half of a full price season pass. I had been to Keystone and other large resorts before, so I knew what to expect. That year we hit Keystone 5 or 6 times, including one multi-day trip when we stayed in Silverthorne. We also boarded a day or two up at A-Basin, which is a really great place but has become very crowded over the past few years. Overall though, we didn’t really care for Keystone as much as other resorts, and couldn’t handle the crowds up the road at A-Basin.

Last year we bit the bullet and bought the full price Colorado Pass which included Breckenridge, A-Basin, and Keystone. We only went to Breck since we’re not big fans of the other two any more. The pass is pretty pricey (I think we paid $450 each), but if you get enough days in it can be worth it. What we realized about halfway through the season is that we really don’t like crowds. Since we can usually only hit the slopes on weekends, and we like to sleep in a little, by the time we arrive on a Saturday morning, the entire resort is usually packed.

In addition to the lift lines and crowded slopes, we really don’t like being so far from our FJ Cruiser. We like to go back to the FJ at lunch time for a sandwich, some great tunes, and a little relaxation. That’s very difficult to do at a large resort. At Breck, that entails taking a gondola, and usually a bus to get to a large parking lot and finally back to the car. It’s really not worth it. What ends up happening is that we’re stuck eating an overpriced chicken sandwich at a VERY crowded mountainside venue. In addition to our passes, we were dropping another $60-70 every time we went (gas, parking, food, etc). Our snowboarding hobby got expensive very quickly.

That’s not to say that we didn’t enjoy ourselves. The snow is usually pretty good, and the runs are nice and long. For great terrain and lots of variety, Breckenridge is hard to beat. Also, on the rare occasion that we were able to hit the slopes during the week, the resort was generally pretty quiet. With the large crowds removed, some of the other drawbacks are easily overlooked. I highly recommend a larger resort like Breck for those coming to Colorado on vacation.

This year, since Angie isn’t able to board, I chose to grab a military pass at Monarch again. The smaller resort with far less people is much better for my tastes, especially on the weekend. I’ve been able to get to the slopes very early in the morning and get some great turns before any lift lines form. Looking forward, with the new addition to our family on the way, I think we’ll be sticking with either Monarch or Ski Cooper for the foreseeable future. I don’t like the thought of teaching our little one to ski/board on a crowded resort mountain.

What are your thoughts on large resorts versus smaller ski areas? Do you prefer the ultra fast lifts and multi-mountain terrain, or smaller areas that are more cost effective and convenient? We’d love to hear about your favorite small ski areas, next season is just around the corner and we’re looking for places to check out!

I managed to get up to Monarch Ski Area on Saturday the 2nd for my first snowboarding trip of ’10.  It was a solo affair, since Angie is unable to board this year with our child on the way. I had checked several of my iPhone Ski Report apps before leaving an read that Monarch only got 1″ of powder the previous night. Luckily snow was in the forecast for Saturday, so I was hoping for a smaller than usual crowd for New Years weekend & plenty of room to stretch.

I left Colorado Springs dark & early, a good hour before sunrise so that I could get to Monarch by the time they opened at 9am. By the time I got to the parking lot it was already 1/3 full, so I still had a short trek to the lift. I spend most of my time at Monarch on the Advanced & intermediate only lift (Breeze Way), and that early in the morning there was virtually no one in line.

My first few runs were very nearly first tracks. There were a few riders here & there, but for the most part I was all alone. The wind & snow in my face, burning down some of my favorite (albeit short) runs in Colorado, carving wide & fast; that’s what winter is all about.

The great thing about living in Colorado is that it truly is an area for all seasons. From backpacking in August (See the Raggeds Wilderness) to 4×4 trails all summer and snow fun in the winter, there’s always something to do and I’m NEVER bored.

Now if I can only figure out a way to get paid for it!

Waiting out the rain

At Adventure Insider, we really look for adventures that are (to use a cliché) off the beaten path. We don’t want to cover the same trips that every other publication and website cover, and we really like our solitude.

Summer in the Raggeds Wilderness

This past summer, this desire led us to the Raggeds Wilderness, near Crested Butte, Colorado. There are literally hundreds of great places in Colorado for a multi-day backpacking trip, but what intrigued us about the Raggeds is that there is not much written about the area. In fact, we had a little difficulty finding which trails would meet our collective skill level (intermediate), and provide the great escape we really love.

Both of those requests were answered with the route we chose. Starting from just outside the Erickson Springs  campground (38.954157°,-107.270606°), we headed up the Dark Canyon Trail (#830). Our plan was to try to make our base camp near the beginning of Oh Be Joyful Pass trail on Silver Basin Trail (#836). Unfortunately there had been quite a bit of rain (and a few good showers that first day), so our first 6 miles were pretty slow going. By the time we got to our first big ascent “Devlis Stairway” (38.949329°,-107.192316°) the ground was muddy, sloppy, and almost impassible. Once we got up this ascent the sun was already starting to fade, so we decided to call it a night.

Heading up the trail

The next morning was much drier, so before long we were at the intersection of the Dark Canyon trail & the Silver Basin Trail. We were planning to head up silver basin trail to our base camp at the bottom of Oh Be Joyful Pass (OBJ) trail. Fortunately we picked up the Trails Illustrated map (Kebler Pass/Paonia Reservoir #133) that pointed out the fact that our original base camp was no where near water, so we decided to continue up Oh Be Joyful Pass trail to find a good spot.

Heading up the trail

Not far along the OBJ trail is a good size ridge with a great overlook to the valley below. We decided this would make a great stopping point (Base Camp: 38.937108°,-107.142046°) for the night since we needed to get some video & photos for reviews on several products (see MH Helion Tent Review & Therm-A-Rest Neo Air Review).  Although we didn’t make it, if you have the time I highly recommend you summit Oh Be Joyful pass (38.939714°,-107.115604°).

What a great view!

The next morning was a little rough for us. I was having some minor issues with my knees, and my two companions (Erick & Ed) had just previously spent 5 days in Glacier National Park. So since we had all the video & photos needed for our reviews, we decided to head down a day early. We expected to reach our vehicle (about 8 miles downhill) early in the afternoon, so we could make it to Gunnison for a nice steak dinner that night.

Views to the west

The downhill part of our trip went pretty quickly, but there were plenty of great views on the way down. The last 3-4 miles are very popular for those with horses, so watch your step. After getting back to the car, it was a short 20 minute ride to retrieve the FJ at the north parking area, and then back through Crested Butte to Gunnison for steaks and beer.

How to get there

To hike this trip from North to South (as we did) take CR-12 north from Crested Butte (you can also get to CR-12 from the north off of CO-133). You can also hike from south to north, which is less steep than our route.

Permits/Regulations

No permits are required to hike in the Raggeds Wilderness. Review all wilderness regulations for restrictions.

Outfitters

Gunnison is the closest town with several backpacking / outdoors shops. You’ll be able to find anything forgotten or missing there. Expect to pay a small premium for goods purchased in a mountain town.

Summary

This is a great trip to get away from the loads of people in many of Colorado’s back country areas during peak season.  You’ll experience several types of terrain that can be challenging at times. We’re looking forward to exploring this area again in the future.

Quick Info

Location: Raggeds Wilderness, Colorado, USA (Info)
Permits: None required.
Distance: 18mi (But several trails offer shorter/longer routes)
Difficulty (1-10): Our route was intermediate (5-6)
Maps: Kebler Pass/Paonia Reservoir Trails Illustrated #133. (Buy) Download Google Earth KML

Rainbow over the Trooper Traverse - Colorado

I first came across a description of the Trooper Traverse in an article — aptly titled “Lost Trails” — published in the June 2007 issue of Backpacker magazine (Subscribe). The Trooper Traverse is a spectacular journey that is rich with history and likely to make a lasting impression on even the least sentimental among us. This 30 mile one-way trip features some of the most pristine high country in the United States. Contact with other humans (on or off trail) is quite limited, as roads and other trails are few and far between. But, if you’re up for the challenge, this trip will reward you many times over.

History

The Trooper Traverse was first accomplished in the winter of 1944 by members of the 10th Mountain Division who were headed to Europe to fight in WWII. Some of these soldiers never came home; others went on to become leaders in the wilderness community. The founders of both the National Outdoor Leadership School and Outward Bound completed the original Trooper Traverse. For a more in-depth history of the trail and its original participants, see Lou Dawson’s article on Wild Snow.

The Way

Approaching a pass on the Trooper Traverse - Colorado

The Backpacker article lacks some information that would be useful for proper planning. For example, Backpacker states there is no technical climbing. While this may be true ‘technically’ speaking, inexperienced packers may find the descent from Williams Mountain to be a bit intimidating. Also bear in mind that you’ll be above 11,000 ft nearly the entire way — another factor that may be intimidating for less experienced packers. While these details should not be deal-breakers in your decision whether or not to attempt the Traverse, you should be aware that the third and fourth day may go more slowly than you than would typically expect. Plan a solid four days for this trek. Intrigued? Start your planning now for next summer to ensure you have time to properly prepare.

Transportation

Arrange for some sort of pick-up in Aspen. You can either leave a vehicle at the trailhead in Aspen (GPS: 39°12.349′N 106°47.888′W), or better yet: arrange for someone to take you back to Leadville when you’re finished. If you do choose to leave a vehicle in Aspen: from Main St. and Mill St. in Aspen, head North on North Mill St. for .3mi., bear left onto Red Mountain Rd. for 1.1mi., make a sharp left to stay on Red Mountain Rd. and proceed .3mi., make a sharp right to stay on Red Mountain Road and proceed 1.3 miles to the parking area.

A hidden stream on the Trooper Traverse - Colorado

To get to the Leadville trailhead, take CO-82 east over Independence Pass from Aspen, head north on US-24 for 11mi. to the turnoff for the Leadville Fish Hatchery, CO-300 for .8mi., turn Left CR-11 for 1.2mi. and make a right onto Halfmoon Road. Follow this road 4.4mi. to the Mt. Massive/Mt. Elbert parking lots. Depending on your vehicle, you may want to park here (GPS: 39°9.103′N 106°25.159′W). High Clearance 4×4 vehicles should be able to make it across Halfmoon Creek and park further up the trail (GPS: 39°9.247′N 106°27.844′N).

Day One

Once parked and ready to go, head up Halfmoon Rd. The first day camp is fairly close to the trailhead, but keep in mind the backpacking version is shorter than the original ski trip of 40mi. That said, you may want to progress past the original campsites on the first two or three days to prevent the last day from turning into a late hike. Remember, the pack trail on the last day that is shown on some maps, no longer extends as far up as shown. The path to night one camp (GPS: 39°9.122′N 106°28.712′W) is not far up the road, but continue on into early evening to get a jump on day two.

Day Two

Clouds over the Continental Divide - Colorado

On day two, head back to the end of the valley to Darling Pass (GPS: 39°8.637′N 106°31.207′W) this is a moderate hike, but take your time and enjoy the views over your shoulder as you climb above tree-line. Plan to get a fairly early start as thunderstorms are common in the afternoon. At the top of Darling Pass take a moment to enjoy the view of the meadow valley before you and know that you are one of the fortunate few who have ever had the opportunity to enjoy this view. In June and July (during the height of the wildflower bloom) the views in this valley are absolutely spectacular.

Continue down into the valley toward the small stream drainage. This leads to a pack trail that will lead your ascent to the top of the Continental Divide. Don’t get too attached to the idea of being on a trail, however, when you reach the crest of the first little hill, you’ll want to veer to the North and proceed up the North side of the valley. A nice shelf near the top of the valley served as the original day two camp. But, if weather permits, continue up to the pass near the divide to camp on the ledge overlooking the valley (GPS: 39°9.289′N 106°33.337′W). There are few campsites in the world that rival the views from here. The wind in this location can be a drawback, but when all’s said and done, the view is more than worth it.

Day Three

Get an early start on day three — take in some breakfast while you enjoy the sunrise over Darling Pass and and watch the morning sunlight fill the valley below. When you’re ready to hit the trail, head up the last couple hundred feet to the top of the Continental Divide (GPS: 39°9.389′N 106°33.544′W) and pause for a moment to appreciate crossing this epic boundary. While thousands of people every year cross the divide, very few cross it in such an impressive manner. Once across the divide, traverse southwest along the boulder field. Keep your eyes out for mountain goats and the elusive bighorn sheep. As you

Looking back on the Trooper Traverse - Colorado

descend the pass, you will see Lost Man Lake far to South. Look for the pack trail that winds down the valley (it follows along the stream leading down from the Lost Man Lake). When you find the “T” (GPS: 39°10.077′N 106°35.534′W), proceed straight though onto what appears to be a foot trail – but quickly fades into vegetation. Other than the altitude and grade, this terrain is fairly easy to traverse.

Extreme Caution

Continue up the ridge to the Southwest to the top of the Williams Mountains. Near the top of this ridge is a great place to drop your pack and take a break, as the descent on the west side (GPS: 39°10.316′N 106°36.960′W) is extremely challenging. This is the most difficult part of the trip. It’s very important to take your time on this descent. The slope is extremely steep and littered with large boulders and medium to small sized scree. If that wasn’t enough to inspire extreme caution, this is where the pack trail to the end should exist but – See note below in ‘Planning’ section – it doesn’t. Proceed down the valley towards Aspen, following any game trails you find heading westerly, and find a nice place to camp alongside the creek for your final night.

Day Four

Aspens on the Trooper Traverse - Colorado

On your final morning continue down Hunter Creek Valley towards Aspen. Keep an eye out for the trail keeping in mind that at many points it fades to vegetation and possibly swamp (during wetter years). Eventually you will pick up a solid trail. Continue on the trail (#35) until you come out on an old 4×4 road. Follow this road until you reach the intersection for Woody Creek. Stay left at this intersection, continuing down the valley. Follow the main trail past several other forks. You’ll end up skirting the edges of a very large summit – it’s very steep so watch your step. Continue down the large 4×4 road to Red Mountain Rd. where your car should be located. Finally, head down to Aspen for a well-deserved beverage and an early dinner!

Planning

For route planning use the National Geographic Trail Illustrated 127 Aspen/Independence Pass ({amazon}B000YU8S8M Buy{/amazon}). This map shows the pack trail in Hunter Creek Valley more accurately than the USGS Quadrangle. And almost as if it were made for this route, it conveniently covers Leadville to Aspen. Plus, it is waterproof and tear resistant so it should hold up nicely for the duration of the trip. Note that the pack trail shown in the Hunter Creek Valley doesn’t extend as far up the valley as the USGS 24K Topo maps show.

Summary

Keep in mind however that the entire route is at high altitude and of course, is quite remote. Proper planning is the key to not only enjoying the trip but being safe in doing so. Keep and eye on the weather before you head out and during the trip. Four full days is sufficient for the trip but could be done in three for fast packers and five for those who want to take a little extra time. The Trooper Traverse is a challenging route that will put you in the backcountry that is

Nearing the end of the Trooper Traverse - Colorado

as pristine now as it was in 1944. Add to that the knowledge that you’re following in the footsteps of some truly brave men, and I think you’ll find this to be an experience of a lifetime.