1. I really am 13 years old in this tape, even though I look 10
2. To this day I’m not much of a swimmer, but in 1989 I could’ve been called ‘afraid’ of the water. Rafting & canoeing was a big step for me.
3. I don’t wear stupid things on my head anymore.

So without further comment, I present “The Wilderness – 1989”

1989 Wilderness Adventure in West Virginia from Shane Williams on Vimeo.

Wow…that wasn’t too bad, was it?

Here I am 20 years later, and the love for adventure that was born so long ago is alive and well. While life (house, job, responsibilities) sometimes has to come before the adventures I so badly want to take, I still manage to get outside pretty often. I’m blessed with a wife who loves the outdoors as much as I do, and I can’t wait to start teaching our son about how amazing the world can be. During the next few months things will be kind of slow, but by the end of this year I have no doubt that the entire Williams family will be exploring the outdoors once again.

Waiting out the rain

At Adventure Insider, we really look for adventures that are (to use a cliché) off the beaten path. We don’t want to cover the same trips that every other publication and website cover, and we really like our solitude.

Summer in the Raggeds Wilderness

This past summer, this desire led us to the Raggeds Wilderness, near Crested Butte, Colorado. There are literally hundreds of great places in Colorado for a multi-day backpacking trip, but what intrigued us about the Raggeds is that there is not much written about the area. In fact, we had a little difficulty finding which trails would meet our collective skill level (intermediate), and provide the great escape we really love.

Both of those requests were answered with the route we chose. Starting from just outside the Erickson Springs  campground (38.954157°,-107.270606°), we headed up the Dark Canyon Trail (#830). Our plan was to try to make our base camp near the beginning of Oh Be Joyful Pass trail on Silver Basin Trail (#836). Unfortunately there had been quite a bit of rain (and a few good showers that first day), so our first 6 miles were pretty slow going. By the time we got to our first big ascent “Devlis Stairway” (38.949329°,-107.192316°) the ground was muddy, sloppy, and almost impassible. Once we got up this ascent the sun was already starting to fade, so we decided to call it a night.

Heading up the trail

The next morning was much drier, so before long we were at the intersection of the Dark Canyon trail & the Silver Basin Trail. We were planning to head up silver basin trail to our base camp at the bottom of Oh Be Joyful Pass (OBJ) trail. Fortunately we picked up the Trails Illustrated map (Kebler Pass/Paonia Reservoir #133) that pointed out the fact that our original base camp was no where near water, so we decided to continue up Oh Be Joyful Pass trail to find a good spot.

Heading up the trail

Not far along the OBJ trail is a good size ridge with a great overlook to the valley below. We decided this would make a great stopping point (Base Camp: 38.937108°,-107.142046°) for the night since we needed to get some video & photos for reviews on several products (see MH Helion Tent Review & Therm-A-Rest Neo Air Review).  Although we didn’t make it, if you have the time I highly recommend you summit Oh Be Joyful pass (38.939714°,-107.115604°).

What a great view!

The next morning was a little rough for us. I was having some minor issues with my knees, and my two companions (Erick & Ed) had just previously spent 5 days in Glacier National Park. So since we had all the video & photos needed for our reviews, we decided to head down a day early. We expected to reach our vehicle (about 8 miles downhill) early in the afternoon, so we could make it to Gunnison for a nice steak dinner that night.

Views to the west

The downhill part of our trip went pretty quickly, but there were plenty of great views on the way down. The last 3-4 miles are very popular for those with horses, so watch your step. After getting back to the car, it was a short 20 minute ride to retrieve the FJ at the north parking area, and then back through Crested Butte to Gunnison for steaks and beer.

How to get there

To hike this trip from North to South (as we did) take CR-12 north from Crested Butte (you can also get to CR-12 from the north off of CO-133). You can also hike from south to north, which is less steep than our route.

Permits/Regulations

No permits are required to hike in the Raggeds Wilderness. Review all wilderness regulations for restrictions.

Outfitters

Gunnison is the closest town with several backpacking / outdoors shops. You’ll be able to find anything forgotten or missing there. Expect to pay a small premium for goods purchased in a mountain town.

Summary

This is a great trip to get away from the loads of people in many of Colorado’s back country areas during peak season.  You’ll experience several types of terrain that can be challenging at times. We’re looking forward to exploring this area again in the future.

Quick Info

Location: Raggeds Wilderness, Colorado, USA (Info)
Permits: None required.
Distance: 18mi (But several trails offer shorter/longer routes)
Difficulty (1-10): Our route was intermediate (5-6)
Maps: Kebler Pass/Paonia Reservoir Trails Illustrated #133. (Buy) Download Google Earth KML

Looking Back

I headed off to Montana with the plan of backpacking the Coal/Nyack Creek Loop in the southern region of Glacier National Park.  I had seen from the online trail reports that there had been some avalanches in the area resulting in quite a few trees down and waist high river crossing about a week before my visit.  What I failed to realize from the report was the sheer numbers of trees that would have to be negotiated in order to complete the loop.  The rangers at the permit office put the number at somewhere in the ‘many hundreds’.  With that bit of information, we changed our plans.  The ranger then helped set up a trip that he was sure would be worth the effort. Worth the trip it was!

Let me start by saying I, as a general rule, try to avoid trips that require a lottery, are over-populated, and even require a permit if possible.  That said, the trip to Glacier was absolutely worth the hassle of the permitting process.  It was a fortunate set of circumstances that we happened to be at the west end of the park and started our backcountry  the following day on the east end of the park.  This required us to drive the Going-to-the-Sun Road that traverses the park east-west and is more than likely the best 50 miles you will ever drive.  Mountain goats, waterfalls, glacial valleys, and wild berries are just a few of the wonderful things you will experience on this trip.  It is worth the trip even if happens to take you out of the way.

Day 0

Small Waterfall

After dropping our car at the Chief Mountain Trailhead (our terminus) we took the shuttle to Many Glacier and acquired a hiker/biker campsite.  Although these are communal campsites it is best to inquire about them before dropping you car, cost: $5/person.  Pizza and a couple beers that evening at the Many Glacier General Store hit the spot and the next morning we hit the trail.  Now, before I divulge our itinerary I want to point out that there are so many remarkable places in Glacier that almost any combination of campsites is worth the trip.  Also keep in mind the big passes that can be downright intimidating are some of the most magnificent places to see.

Day 1

Over Ptarmigan pass and through Ptarmigan Tunnel (yes, it’s an actual tunnel).  Upon exiting the tunnel you will see Elizabeth lake far below you.  Continuing down the trail will bring Helen Lake into view along with many peaks sporting glaciers and huge waterfalls.  Further down the trail we merged with the Continental Divide Trail and eventually arrived at Elizabeth Lake (Foot) Campground.  From there it was a magnificent hike to Elizabeth Lake (Head) Campground for the night.  Here there is a little sandbar

Dawn Mist Falls

that you can ford out to for a little relaxation sitting in a glacial valley surrounded by numerous peaks and ridges.  In  hindsight I think continuing another couple miles to Helen Lake Campground would be worth the little extra effort.

Day 2

Heading back towards the foot of Elizabeth Lake and continuing to Cosley Lake Campground.  On the route we passed Dawn Mist Falls and were pleased to see a small spur that leads to the bottom of the falls.  This spur is only about a tenth of mile long is pretty much flat, making the side trip for lunch and a refreshing dip a no-brainer.  The trail is pretty flat and wandering until we reached a river fording about a half mile from the campground.  After the ford and re-installing our feet in our shoes we proceeded the last half mile where we saw a black bear scavenging berries and decided to help ourselves as well, after we were well clear of the bear.  Cosely Lake sits at the base of a cliff and is fed by the run off from Stoney Indian Pass.  A fishing pole here may serve as one of the better items to bring.  Here, each campsite is along the water with a thin stand of brush and trees and a personal trail leading to the water.  Deer are very prominent in this area and tend to crave the salt we bring along.  I caught a doe licking the handles of my trekking poles numerous times even as I approached her.

Day 3

Morning Fog in Glacier N.P.

We continued west a short distance to Mokowanis Junction Campground.  Due to the short day we decided to take a day hike after lunch and a nap.  Mokowanis Lake is reported by one guide we met, to be a great spot for a swim.  Stoney Indian Pass offers glacier pools coupled with waterfalls and steep climbing.  We chose the pass, and we not at all disappointed.  Huge waterfalls and a dip in a 58° glacial pond was what the doctor ordered.  This was by far the pinnacle of the trip and is what has me wanting to return again.

Day 4

Backtracking day.  Heading east now past Cosley Lake a few miles into Gable Creek Campground.  Hiking the vistas of the park and picking wild berries to munch on made the day memorable.

Day 5

The end of the road.  Heading out to Chief Mountain was the slowest going on the entire trip.  Made extremely muddy by the recent rains the trail was tough to negotiate and at times almost frustrating.  A steep incline followed by some wandering finishes at the Chief Mountain Trailhead.

Planning

How to get there

Bears

Both Missoula (164 mi.) and Great Falls (203 mi.) are served by major airlines with car rental services available.  Destinations closer to the park may be served by smaller airlines or connectors.  The drive to park is straight forward although there is some construction on US-93 north of Missoula as of this writing.  Another notable is the utterly delicious Montana Wheat located at the junction of US-93 and Hwy 35.  There is also a grocery store there for last minute items.  Make sure you stop for some Flathead Cherries that are grown in orchards right along your drive and sold at the numerous stands dotting the road.

Permits

Due to the popularity of the park, permits can be hard to come by for Glacier.  Advanced reservation lotteries are in effect but a certain percentage of each campground is held for walk in reservation available to day before you wish to start.  Due to the high possibility of changes, check the Glacier National Park Backcountry Camping page for up to date information.

Outfitters

Many outfitter near glacier are more than happy to help you find that item you forgot at home.  If you need a place to get a new tent, get a new sleeping bag, or get that new Therm-a-Rest Neo Air you can stop by REI in Missoula.

Summary

Waterfalls on Stoney Indian Pass

If Glacier isn’t on your list, it should be.  If it is, it should be higher.  Glacier National park is truly an amazing place to visit, it’s just a shame it’s so popular as it makes it tough to keep to the ‘insiders’.

Quick Info

Location: Glacier National Park, Montana, USA
Permits: Required.  By lottery or walk-in (see above)
Distance: Varies
Difficulty (1-10): Varies
Beta: Glacier N.P. Trails Illustrated.  Available for the whole park and in larger scale for sections of the park. (Buy)

http://www.nps.gov/glac

Located over a half mile to the south of Buttermilk Falls, Silver Spray Falls yields views that are just as stunning (if not better), but without the crowds.  However, little seems to be known about these falls, including the from the locals.  A stop at the local deli will get you directions to Silver Spray Farm, but mention  the falls and you may be told nothing of the sort exists.  Many people don’t realize that many of our greatest treasures lie where few people have ventured.  Park at the abandoned Farm and head North on Mountain Road about 500ft.  Once past the house head east and make your way back towards the creek.  Stay next to the creek and enjoy one of the sights in solitude.  You may want to pack a lunch as it will surely take you longer then expected, after all, there are so many pictures to be taken.

Quick Info:

Location: Deleware Water Gap NRA,  NJ, USA
Permits: None
Distance: Varies
Difficulty: Varies from 2-5

http://www.nps.gov/dewa/

From Vienna it’s a two and half hour to the transfer at Attnang-Puchheim where your train will take you south to the Salzkammergut area of Austria.  Although this area is not home to the grand Alps that we often associate with the Austrian Alps, the cliffs rising directly out of glacial lakes makes this area an adventure seekers dream.  The draw of this region attracts events like the Red Bull X-Alps competition.  This competition is held every year and requires participants to travel 850KM from Krippenstein to Monaco.  Even if you don’t have the time for a trek across half of Europe there is still plenty to do.  Each summer the Salzkammergut Mountain Bike Trophy race is held starting and finishing in Bad Goisern.  If you can’t make it for the race or just want a little more space you, can ride each course. They range from 14.7 mi to 129.7 mi. so make sure you’re biking legs are in shape.  Each course is included in the map on this site, but individual Google Earth and GPS files are available from http://www.salzkammergut-trophy.at/show_page.php?pid=284.  If you would like to explore more biking tours, you can download them from http://bike-gps.idrz.de/.

Although mountain biking may seem like the permier activity, in reality there is much more to do.  SCUBA diving oppertunities are all around, including the gorgeous Hallstatt lake.  On the the shore of Hallstatt lake is the town of Hallstatt.  Although it has become rather touristy lately, this town is worth the trip as the view of the town situated on both the shore of the lake and the base of a cliff is simply stunning.  From here you can charter a guide to take you onto the lake for a great day of diving (http://www.hallstatt.net/publisher/articleview/action/view/frmArticleID/121/?lang=en-iso-8859-15).  If you would rather a view from above there are numerous options for that as well.  For those not willing to go over the edge there are cable cars that offer some ‘life list’ views, while those craving a loftier feeling can take a para-gliding ride with a licensed instructor (http://www.aufwind.at/aufwind/content/TxtB_1664/view).  Other great adventures include ice caves, innumerable hiking & biking trails, and plenty of kayaking or conoeing trips.  Regardless of how you plan your travel, there is plenty of sights to see.

Rainbow over the Trooper Traverse - Colorado

I first came across a description of the Trooper Traverse in an article — aptly titled “Lost Trails” — published in the June 2007 issue of Backpacker magazine (Subscribe). The Trooper Traverse is a spectacular journey that is rich with history and likely to make a lasting impression on even the least sentimental among us. This 30 mile one-way trip features some of the most pristine high country in the United States. Contact with other humans (on or off trail) is quite limited, as roads and other trails are few and far between. But, if you’re up for the challenge, this trip will reward you many times over.

History

The Trooper Traverse was first accomplished in the winter of 1944 by members of the 10th Mountain Division who were headed to Europe to fight in WWII. Some of these soldiers never came home; others went on to become leaders in the wilderness community. The founders of both the National Outdoor Leadership School and Outward Bound completed the original Trooper Traverse. For a more in-depth history of the trail and its original participants, see Lou Dawson’s article on Wild Snow.

The Way

Approaching a pass on the Trooper Traverse - Colorado

The Backpacker article lacks some information that would be useful for proper planning. For example, Backpacker states there is no technical climbing. While this may be true ‘technically’ speaking, inexperienced packers may find the descent from Williams Mountain to be a bit intimidating. Also bear in mind that you’ll be above 11,000 ft nearly the entire way — another factor that may be intimidating for less experienced packers. While these details should not be deal-breakers in your decision whether or not to attempt the Traverse, you should be aware that the third and fourth day may go more slowly than you than would typically expect. Plan a solid four days for this trek. Intrigued? Start your planning now for next summer to ensure you have time to properly prepare.

Transportation

Arrange for some sort of pick-up in Aspen. You can either leave a vehicle at the trailhead in Aspen (GPS: 39°12.349′N 106°47.888′W), or better yet: arrange for someone to take you back to Leadville when you’re finished. If you do choose to leave a vehicle in Aspen: from Main St. and Mill St. in Aspen, head North on North Mill St. for .3mi., bear left onto Red Mountain Rd. for 1.1mi., make a sharp left to stay on Red Mountain Rd. and proceed .3mi., make a sharp right to stay on Red Mountain Road and proceed 1.3 miles to the parking area.

A hidden stream on the Trooper Traverse - Colorado

To get to the Leadville trailhead, take CO-82 east over Independence Pass from Aspen, head north on US-24 for 11mi. to the turnoff for the Leadville Fish Hatchery, CO-300 for .8mi., turn Left CR-11 for 1.2mi. and make a right onto Halfmoon Road. Follow this road 4.4mi. to the Mt. Massive/Mt. Elbert parking lots. Depending on your vehicle, you may want to park here (GPS: 39°9.103′N 106°25.159′W). High Clearance 4×4 vehicles should be able to make it across Halfmoon Creek and park further up the trail (GPS: 39°9.247′N 106°27.844′N).

Day One

Once parked and ready to go, head up Halfmoon Rd. The first day camp is fairly close to the trailhead, but keep in mind the backpacking version is shorter than the original ski trip of 40mi. That said, you may want to progress past the original campsites on the first two or three days to prevent the last day from turning into a late hike. Remember, the pack trail on the last day that is shown on some maps, no longer extends as far up as shown. The path to night one camp (GPS: 39°9.122′N 106°28.712′W) is not far up the road, but continue on into early evening to get a jump on day two.

Day Two

Clouds over the Continental Divide - Colorado

On day two, head back to the end of the valley to Darling Pass (GPS: 39°8.637′N 106°31.207′W) this is a moderate hike, but take your time and enjoy the views over your shoulder as you climb above tree-line. Plan to get a fairly early start as thunderstorms are common in the afternoon. At the top of Darling Pass take a moment to enjoy the view of the meadow valley before you and know that you are one of the fortunate few who have ever had the opportunity to enjoy this view. In June and July (during the height of the wildflower bloom) the views in this valley are absolutely spectacular.

Continue down into the valley toward the small stream drainage. This leads to a pack trail that will lead your ascent to the top of the Continental Divide. Don’t get too attached to the idea of being on a trail, however, when you reach the crest of the first little hill, you’ll want to veer to the North and proceed up the North side of the valley. A nice shelf near the top of the valley served as the original day two camp. But, if weather permits, continue up to the pass near the divide to camp on the ledge overlooking the valley (GPS: 39°9.289′N 106°33.337′W). There are few campsites in the world that rival the views from here. The wind in this location can be a drawback, but when all’s said and done, the view is more than worth it.

Day Three

Get an early start on day three — take in some breakfast while you enjoy the sunrise over Darling Pass and and watch the morning sunlight fill the valley below. When you’re ready to hit the trail, head up the last couple hundred feet to the top of the Continental Divide (GPS: 39°9.389′N 106°33.544′W) and pause for a moment to appreciate crossing this epic boundary. While thousands of people every year cross the divide, very few cross it in such an impressive manner. Once across the divide, traverse southwest along the boulder field. Keep your eyes out for mountain goats and the elusive bighorn sheep. As you

Looking back on the Trooper Traverse - Colorado

descend the pass, you will see Lost Man Lake far to South. Look for the pack trail that winds down the valley (it follows along the stream leading down from the Lost Man Lake). When you find the “T” (GPS: 39°10.077′N 106°35.534′W), proceed straight though onto what appears to be a foot trail – but quickly fades into vegetation. Other than the altitude and grade, this terrain is fairly easy to traverse.

Extreme Caution

Continue up the ridge to the Southwest to the top of the Williams Mountains. Near the top of this ridge is a great place to drop your pack and take a break, as the descent on the west side (GPS: 39°10.316′N 106°36.960′W) is extremely challenging. This is the most difficult part of the trip. It’s very important to take your time on this descent. The slope is extremely steep and littered with large boulders and medium to small sized scree. If that wasn’t enough to inspire extreme caution, this is where the pack trail to the end should exist but – See note below in ‘Planning’ section – it doesn’t. Proceed down the valley towards Aspen, following any game trails you find heading westerly, and find a nice place to camp alongside the creek for your final night.

Day Four

Aspens on the Trooper Traverse - Colorado

On your final morning continue down Hunter Creek Valley towards Aspen. Keep an eye out for the trail keeping in mind that at many points it fades to vegetation and possibly swamp (during wetter years). Eventually you will pick up a solid trail. Continue on the trail (#35) until you come out on an old 4×4 road. Follow this road until you reach the intersection for Woody Creek. Stay left at this intersection, continuing down the valley. Follow the main trail past several other forks. You’ll end up skirting the edges of a very large summit – it’s very steep so watch your step. Continue down the large 4×4 road to Red Mountain Rd. where your car should be located. Finally, head down to Aspen for a well-deserved beverage and an early dinner!

Planning

For route planning use the National Geographic Trail Illustrated 127 Aspen/Independence Pass ({amazon}B000YU8S8M Buy{/amazon}). This map shows the pack trail in Hunter Creek Valley more accurately than the USGS Quadrangle. And almost as if it were made for this route, it conveniently covers Leadville to Aspen. Plus, it is waterproof and tear resistant so it should hold up nicely for the duration of the trip. Note that the pack trail shown in the Hunter Creek Valley doesn’t extend as far up the valley as the USGS 24K Topo maps show.

Summary

Keep in mind however that the entire route is at high altitude and of course, is quite remote. Proper planning is the key to not only enjoying the trip but being safe in doing so. Keep and eye on the weather before you head out and during the trip. Four full days is sufficient for the trip but could be done in three for fast packers and five for those who want to take a little extra time. The Trooper Traverse is a challenging route that will put you in the backcountry that is

Nearing the end of the Trooper Traverse - Colorado

as pristine now as it was in 1944. Add to that the knowledge that you’re following in the footsteps of some truly brave men, and I think you’ll find this to be an experience of a lifetime.

San Lorenzo Canyon - New Mexico

Located about an hour south of Albuquerque on BLM land, San Lorenzo Canyon offers a short & easy trip for those looking to backpack with someone inexperienced, children, or anyone just looking for a simple trip.  There is only about a mile and a half of canyon before the Sevilleta National Wildlife Refuge (which is off limits without permission), so the canyon offers the possibility of a Friday night hike in allowing almost two full days of day hiking.  Campsites with a nice view can be found with an eye upward and the willingness to do a little light scrambling.  Water is tough to find so plan accordingly during the drier seasons.

Directions:

Sunrise over San Lorenzo Canyon - New Mexico

Take exit 156 off I-25 for Lemitar and head to the west to the service station to stock up on beef jerky and water.  When your finished shopping take the service road North that runs parallel to I-25, on the West side approx. 5 miles.  When the road makes a sharp turn to the East take the left on a maintained dirt road.  In approx. 2 miles you will see a sign on the right to San Lorenzo Canyon. If you are in a four wheel drive take this road as far as you see fit (if you are so inclined you can drive all the way up the canyon).  If you are in a two wheel drive back up to one of the dirt roads and head up a little ways until you find suitable parking.  Wherever you park, just head West in the wash to the mouth of the canyon.

Quick Info

Location: Aevilleta National Wildlife Refuge, New Mexico, USA
Permits: None
Distance: 1.5 miles one-way
Difficulty (1-10): 2
Beta: http://www.explorenm.com/hikes/SanLorenzo/

http://www.blm.gov/nm/st/en/prog/recreation/socorro/san_lorenzo_canyon.html

Jemez River - New Mexico

If barren desert is what comes to mind when you think of New Mexico, think again.  In the Jemez mountains about 45 minutes from Santa Fe (in the National Forest of the same name) runs the Jemez River.  With tons of trails in the area, the hiking and backpacking opportunities are almost endless.  Add to that the Jemez Falls and the McCauley Hot Springs and the Jemez river makes for great weekend outings with the kids.  Keep in mind the area is quite popular and thus solitude can be a little tricky.

Jemez River Crossing - New Mexico

If nothing else you can find a secluded campsite by being a little adventuresome and heading off trail.  There are also some sport climbing routes in the area  along the river if that’s your sport. The scenery while driving on US 4  will leave you speechless as well,  particularly to the west. After a nice weekend head to Cafe Pasquals in Santa Fe for an absolutely divine brunch.

Quick Info

Location: Santa Fe National Forest, New Mexico, USA
Permits: None
Distance: Many variations
Difficulty (1-10): 3

http://www.fs.fed.us/r3/sfe/index.html