A seal swims in the icy waters

I am sitting in the little Bering Air offices in a back corner of the already tiny Nome airport. It’s dank, dark, grey, and cold outside. 8:30 am and the sun won’t poke its head above the horizon for another hour or so. I am waiting to catch my flight from Nome to St. Michael via Unalakleet. I am flying through some daylight hours so I will be able to see part of this corner of Alaska from the air. The flight to Nome from Anchorage was dark with nothing to see. It took what seemed forever just to get through security in Anchorage. The highlight of the airport was flirting with a tall, sexy Russian girl who was working at the Starbucks. However, now that I am here, in Nome, I am in full swing adventure mode, preparing to live in the Yupik Eskimo village of St. Michael for the next several months of my life, training sled dogs and running dog-sledding trips into the Northwestern Arctic of Alaska and into the Russian Kamchadal region.

Sitting here in the Nome airport, surrounded by the goings-on, I realize that I am minority out here, and that this will be the first time I have ever lived as such. There are not many Viking looking white-boys out here. This is Yupik country, and I am the outsider. At 6-feet 1-inches, and blonde, I “stand out” in the crowd, double entendre intended.

Flying out of Nome and into St. Michael is a white-knuckle affair, and one that leaves a lasting impression of the isolation and austere vastness of the arctic. White, wind-whipped seas, and low rolling volcanic cones covered in arctic tundra are the only things you see as the plane makes its way across the lonely part of the world.

After landing, my new boss takes me directly to a fuel tank farm where he immediately gets me to work, pumping out mud and water from around the tank perimeters. The first look at the village brings one word to mind, squalor. There is no doubt that while this is technically part of the United States, the village and area is essentially a third world country.

Hunting on the ice

Village life is filled with mud, garbage, human waste and more mud. It is generous to call the village ugly, yet the region surrounding it is somehow mystical. There is an intangible quality that hangs over the land, making it seem almost prehistoric. The only other place in the world I have experienced anything similar is in the remote regions of Iceland, another tundra covered northern land.

There is no doubt that this is frontier living. Even in the 21st century, being here strikes a feeling of being on the edge. One Yupik elder describes this land by saying “it is not the end of the world, but you can see it from here.” Regarding the human interactions, this is the frontier as well, as disagreements are more often solved with fists or bullets than mediation.

Beyond the thought that a mere disagreement may be met with fists, the biggest obstacle here as best I can figure is mud. Nasty, gross, filthy, dog-shit filled mud. It is everywhere and it is a part of life here before the snow and ice arrives. No outdoor gear purchased from fancy gear stores survives this stuff. This is the land where Carhartt, and industrial work clothes are essential. Wear a fancy-boy piece of Patagonia and it gets shredded in days.

This is especially noticed when working the dog lot. This is my second day in, and I have started working the dogs and dog yard. The dogs get fed a mix of seal fat, high protein kibble and water twice a day. To get the seal fat, raw flippers and blubber get placed into a large outdoor double-boiler where it gets rendered down into a liquid tallow that gets poured over the kibble. Consider this high-octane fuel for the dogs as the calorie return on it is incredible. In addition to the seal fat, Tom Cod also get boiled down, into a soupy fish-broth given to the dogs.

Don’t think that the seal and cod magically appear either; Glen, a Yupik, routinely goes out on seal hunts, and the cod is retrieved from nets dropped into the frigid Norton Sound. About every third day, I make a run out to the nets to pull up the fish, place them into large plastic tubs, then bring them back for boiling and rendering.

A caught seal is butchered

If this all sounds grimy and gross, I can tell you, it is. However, I am fortunate because my house is one of the only houses in the village that has its own shower. I am very lucky that after a day spent scooping dog waste, boiling seal fat and handling dogs I get to come home and take a hot shower. Most of the Yupik are not so lucky, as indoor plumbing is a rarity in these parts. For toilet needs, this is the land of the “honeypot”. Outhouses have holding pots called “honeypots” that are used for waste. As they fill up, you carry them out to the side of the muddy streets where they are collected by a weekly “poop-patrol” and they are then brought out to be dumped into a huge lagoon of human waste. Hepatitis runs rampant out here. Before you begin thinking it is all bad, let me tell you that the rewards out here truly help erase the bad. I was invited to go on seal hunts with the Yupik which is an honor and spectacle. As a “Gussiq” – white guy – I am not allowed to hunt the seals, and I don’t want to; but being invited to go out in the boats and observe the hunt, as well as be there on the beach when they return is an experience that is worth the hardship.

I was taken out on my first seal hunt with Glen. He told me to “go dress like you’ve never dressed before” and to prepare for the nastiest conditions I could imagine. I put on two layers of long-underwear, an expedition weight top, primaloft pants, Gore-Tex bibs, arctic boots, a down jacket, glacier glasses, a parka mushing-overcoat, fur trapper hat, gloves, hat and seal furred mittens. Barely able to move, I waddled down to the beach where we all loaded into the boat and made our way out into the minus 10 degree weather. Even with all this, I was astonished at how fast my feet and fingers cooled down, and I am a seasoned high-altitude mountaineer. I can honestly say this was one of the most uncomfortable excursions I have participated in.

Once out in the boat and floating through the pack ice, I was amazed at how astute, observant and aware the Yupik men are when hunting seal. Glen could spot a spotted seal head from at least a mile away. I have no idea how he pulls this off, but it is truly an amazing thing to see. Glen’s brother in law, Paul, came along and he shot two spotted seals. As we pulled up to the beach of St. Michael, many of the locals turned out for the butchering. The Y’upiq once hunted spotted seals using harpoons and hand-thrown “atlatls” – a combination slingshot and spear. Today, they use .22 caliber rifles to take the seals. Even so, the fact they can spot the seal out in the ice and land a shot is testimony to their skill and heritage of living with what the surroundings give them. When they hit a seal, it naturally floats due to the blubber and fat, making retrieval a matter of keeping an eye on the dead animal and navigating through the pack ice.

The retrieval proved to be physical, and rough. Glen directed the boat through pack ice, and “bergie-bits” – loose chunks of ice that can be the size of Volkswagons. This is particularly dangerous, as the saying “the tip of the iceberg” is a reality. What you see on top is about 1/8 of what is below. Disturb it too much and it could roll, and take you with the boat out.

The haul is divied up by social caste

As Glen brought the boat up to the floating seals, Paul grabbed the gaff – a long metal hook – and handed it to me while he crouched low into the boat and held onto the sides. Paul directed me to thrust the tip of the hook as deep into the seal’s blubber and flesh as possible and then pull it in toward the side of the boat. If this sounds easy, it isn’t. While the seal’s body is covered in a blubber-layer, it is not soft. I had to truly swing the shit out of the gaff to bring it onto the dead seal’s back. Once the hook was set Paul told me to begin pulling it in toward the boat where he and Glen would pull it up and into the bottom.

Pulling the seal across the water, and through ice is difficult as the seal weighs close to 300 or 400 lbs. Imagine trying to pull a black bear across an obstacle laden room and you get an idea of what it is to pull a seal through ice-filled water. I could only imagine how this was done when the Yupi’q would hunt the seals out of kayaks and skin boats.

Paul and Glen yanked the seal up and into the boat, along with gallons of the briny and ice-cold water. It splashed everywhere and soaked us through our various layers of clothing, adding to the discomfort. Soaked gloves and mittens made the situation seem more dangerous as my fingers began to numb out with a rapidness I have never seen or experienced before.

Once the seals were on the boat, Glen brought the boat back to the beaches of the village. I jumped out from the bow, and gripped the ice-covered line and began to pull the boat up with full force, taking advantage of the inertia and making sure to get the boat as far out of the water as possible.

The three of us coordinated a lift and toss of the seals onto the beach. Again, our gloves were soaked, and every fiber of me was screaming to get the hell out of the cold and into the warmth of the house. There was still work to be done, and I had to stay with the men to prove my mettle as a measly Gusiq.

This was where things really got interesting. Paul and Glen cut the seals up and handed out choice cuts and the ribs to the elders of the village. Everyone got some of the seal, but according to a “pecking order”. The elders got the best cuts while the village n’er do wells got the fat and entrails. It was something, watching this take place, knowing that it has been done this way for hundreds of years prior. This is not like going into a Safeway and buying a steak.

After the beach-side butcher house antics, I retired to the house where I tried in vain to thaw out and heat my core and body back to normal levels. Once I recovered I bundled back up and went out to feed the dogs, which takes about an hour of time to prepare, dish out, and clean.

The excess blubber from the seals would be used for the dog food and I would be responsible for boiling it down into the creamy tallow that gets added to the kibble.

Spending time in the village, you fall into a pattern of work, sleep, and waiting for the weather to cooperate. Finally, snow hit us, and the dogs can get run. The dogs themselves know when the time is prime for sledding. They bark and howl and twitch with giddy anticipation with the thought of harnessing up and hitting the trails. I love each and every one of these dogs, but make no mistake, these dogs are not pets. The reality of dog-mushing is that the dogs are working dogs, born and bred to break trail and pull weight. When they know the time has come to run, they come alive.

About Eric Cedric

Eric Cedric is a former mountain guide and expedition leader with 20 years of professional experience. Cedric has worked on Denali, Elbrus and a handful of Himalayan peaks. In addition, Cedric is a private pilot and professional environmental and conservation writer. Cedric splits his time each year between the Adirondack Mountains, Southern California and Costa Rica.

Shenandoah NP

A couple years ago I spent a few days backpacking in Shenandoah National Park. I came away with rather mixed emotions on the park and the national park system in general. First let’s talk about the good. I was fortunate enough to visit Shenandoah in the fall and the colors of the foliage were simply amazing. Shenandoah has a nice feature on their website that lists backpacking trips by experience level and nights spent on trail (found here: http://www.nps.gov/shen/planyourvisit/campbc_trip_plans.htm). However, make sure you find a trip and print out the PDF to take along with you. The ranger I dealt with at the visitors center wasn’t as much help as I would have preferred but none the less I managed to find a trip that seemed interesting and walked out of the ranger station with a back-country permit.  I also applaud Shenandoah for allowing dogs on most of their trails. Other parks should take notice.

Skyline Drive, Shenandoah NP

So what’s not to like? There are over 500 miles of trails in a park that, although is about 70 miles north to south only measures about 7.5 miles wide. That leads to a network of trails where the word back-country becomes a bit of a misnomer. If you are looking for true solitude Shenandoah may not be the best place. In fact looking outside of the National Park system altogether may be the best bet. I prefer to use my miles to put distance between myself and others. In Shenandoah, however doing loops just for the sake of making miles seems to be the name of the game.
Now comes the real kicker. Apparently Shenandoah has received a sizable chunk of money through the American Recovery and Reinvestment Act of 2009 (stimulus bill passed during the recession) and is putting that money into Skyline Drive (the road that runs the 70 miles from end to end) and refurbishing their overlooks. While that sounds all well and good it of course comes at a price, in addition to the money. Traffic, delays, and the noise can be heard even after being on trail for days. But those are just inconveniences. The real question is that of the sustainability of what I have taken to calling the ‘development in the name of conservation’ policy. Does it make sense to find a place you want to protect and build a road right down the middle of it sprinkled with tourist shops where you can buy silly t-shirts, hamburgers and refuel your RV? If we really care about conserving the wilderness areas for future generations than we should put effort into saving them from development, not going out of our way to develop them. There are plenty of beautiful miles you can drive your RV and stop for a hot dog on your whirlwind tour of postcard worthy photos, the National Parks shouldn’t be one of them.

If you are planning on heading to Shenandoah check out The Potomac Appalachian Trail Club (http://www.patc.net) publishes great topographical maps of the area that you may find very useful planning and during your trip.

We are pleased to announce the release of the Spring 2012 issue of Adventure Insider Magazine.

In this issue you’ll find an interesting article on seal hunting, tips on diving in Vancouver, BC, all the info you need for the North American Mountain Film Festivals in 2012, and much more! We hope you enjoy the Spring issue!

Download the Spring Issue Here

Check it out and let us know what you think.

Scarpa Phantom 6000 -- double mountaineering boot

Double Boots

Double are similar to ski boots in design in that they have a mold-able liner with a stiff plastic or waterproof or stiff waterproof shell. These boots are most commonly used for technical mountaineering in extreme environments, like K2 or Everest but may be employed by weekend warriors who struggle with cold feet during multi-day trips. Consult an expert if you feel you need these boots and aren’t sure what to get.

Mountaineering Boots

These boots are designed for mountaineering in slightly less demanding conditions than double boots. They can range from the equivalent of heavyweight hiking boots to heavier boots designed for vertical ice and more serious mountaineering. Whereas heavier, stiffer boots perform better on snow and ice, they are less useful on the trail, and (perhaps not surprisingly) boots that perform better on the trail are less suited to the rigors of steep snow and ice. So, your intended use will determine the type of boot you need. Once you have decided on the type boot that fits your adventure needs, you should head to your local outfitter with the socks you plan on wearing. Try on several different pairs to ensure you find the fit that is best for you. While some manufactures still use leather which offers a faster break-in (but more maintenance to keep waterproof and conditioned), many are moving to high performance synthetic materials for most boots.

La Sportiva Lhotse -- heavyweight mountaineering boot

Heavyweight Mountaineering Boots

Heavyweight mountaineering boots are designed for spending lots of time on vertical ice (WI4 and above), steep snow and ice, and in truly cold conditions. A full shank will make these boots extremely stiff but allow you to use automatic or step-in crampons with ease. The shank and the high cuff will make climbing vertical ice much easier. Generally these boots are extremely waterproof and well insulated, which of course adds up to a very stiff, heavy boot. Although this is ideal in a boot if you plan on serious mountaineering, the weight and difficult break-in period keep make it a less-than-practical boot for peak baggers and weekend backpackers.

Scarpa Charmoz -- medium weight mountaineering boot

Mid-weight Mountaineering Boots

Mid-weight mountaineering boots are designed for hiking in cold temperatures and backpacking. Some models may have a half shank to allow use of automatic or step-in crampons. These boots can be used for less than vertical ice climbing (up to WI3). Mid-weight mountaineering boots are also ideal for moderately cold weather mountaineering while still offering the adequate flexibility and reduced weight to be comfortable on the trail. This is probably the ideal boot for budding mountaineers.

Asolo Lothar -- lightweight mountaineering boot

Lightweight Mountaineering Boots

Lightweight mountaineering boots are ideal for winter hiking, backpacking with large loads, cold peak bagging and approaches. Although they can be used with snowshoes and are generally stiff enough to accept strap-on crampons for limited snow and ice travel they excel on the trail, they often provide less stability over snow, ice, and very rough terrain and therefore should be reserved primarily for trail use when you don’t expect much, if any, snow or ice.

Many boot models in this category are made of leather and use other (primarily synthetic) fabrics for the side panels. The result is a reduction in weight and price but typically at the expense of stability, water resistance and durability. Although some manufactures offer Gore-Tex-treated models, many will require using a third-party waterproofing treatment, such as Nikwax.

Break-in and Boot Maintenance

The break-in can be a bit of a love, hate process. Lightweight boots have a relatively quick break-in period, whereas mid-weight boots may require on the order of 100 miles of wear for an adequate break-in. Heavy mountaineering boots may require as much as 200 miles of wear for that comfort fit, during which time it’s as much you breaking in the boots as the boots breaking you in (see sidebar for blister treatments). Experimenting with different sock combinations can ease some of the pain, but for the most part it is just a process you need to endure. That said, make sure you tough it out before heading into the backcountry. Boots that have not been broken in have no place on the mountain, trail or ice. It’s worth spending a lot of time getting to know your boots. Even prior to making your purchase, do more than just take a quick ‘up and back’ in the store. Ask the clerk if you can spend some more time walking around the store in the boots you’re considering, do the rest of your shopping in them (I mean, it’s not like we ever go to an outdoor equipment store for just one thing, right?). If you have any discomfort after an hour it spells disaster for multi-day trips. Or, at the very least, it suggests that a different brand of boot is going to be better long term. If you need to help speed up the break-in time, look into custom foot beds, but don’t skip the pre-purchase comfort test.

With proper care, most well-made mountaineering boots will last a lifetime. After every trip inspect, clean and dry your boots. First, clean off large debris and dirt with a stiff brush. Next use a gentle soap such as saddle soap or Nikwax Cleaning Gel according to manufacturer’s instructions. Allow to dry away from any heat source as heat can damage the leather and liners. If additional waterproofing is required follow the manufacturer’s instructions.

Black Diamond Cyborg crampon with automatic bindings

Compatibility With Crampons

Boots may have a welted heel, welted toe, or both. A boot with a heel welt can accept hybrid crampons while a boot featuring both welted heel and toe will accept automatic (or step-in) crampons. Boots lacking welts will require strap-on crampon bindings.

Crampon Bindings

There are three main types of crampon bindings. The type of crampon binding you decide on will be decided by your boot type. (see left)

Step-in Crampons — require a stiff boot with welts on the toe and heel. On the heel a lever keeps the crampon tight to the boot while a front bail fits into the toe welt. These are generally used on mid and heavyweight boots with a half or full shank.

Hybrid crampons — require a heel welt but do not need one on the toe. Instead a toe strap holds them in place on the toe.

Strap-on crampons — can be affixed to almost any boot. They are simply help to the boot using nylon webbing.

C.A.M.P. C12 crampon with hybrid bindings

Crampons

Crampons are boot attachments that feature metal spikes to provide traction on snow and ice. They come in different configurations, are made of different materials, and have different methods of attaching to boots. It’s a good idea to take you boots with you when purchasing crampons. While most stores will be able to get you a crampon you can take home and affix to your boots there is peace of mind that comes with leaving the store knowing you are ready to start your adventure. Again, the type and binding of crampon you settle on will be decided by their intended use.

Crampon Types

Rigid crampons — are designed for climbing vertical ice (WI4 and above). The crampons are constructed to provide no flex and therefore may take some time to get used to and are not suitable for trail use, but they provide the most stable platform when front-pointing vertical ice.

Semi-rigid — crampons provide some flex — essential for walking on icy trails or glaciers — yet they will also provide a stiff platform for climbing less-than-vertical steep ice (up to WI3). This balance of walking and climbing performance makes this style of crampon the best choice for general mountaineering (and also the most common type of crampon available).

Flexible crampons — are generally attached to the boot with straps and are the most comfortable crampon for walking on icy trails because they allow the user to maintain a relatively normal stride. They do not, however, provide any stability for climbing and thus are best suited for occasional use on low grade terrain.

Grivel G10 crampons with strap-on bindings

Materials

Crampons are generally made from a high-strength steel alloy and will last many seasons with proper care. There are also crampons made from lightweight aluminum that are best employed for occasional use — a multi-day trip where crampons will be needed near a summit but you don’t want to be carrying steel in your backpack for the remainder of the trek.

Points

Good crampons will generally have between 10 and 14 points. 10 point crampons are generally reserved for occasional use, whereas general mountaineering crampons will normally have 12 points, and crampons designed for climbing vertical ice will typically have 14. The point orientation will also have an effect on the utility of the crampon for specific applications. Mountaineering crampons will normally have two horizontal front points and the second row will be more vertical allowing good penetration in ice while walking. Crampons designed for ice climbing may have one or two front points orientated vertically for strength with the second row angled toward the toe to make front-pointing easier.

Crampon Maintenance

Crampons will last many years with proper care. Always inspect your crampons before and after each trip and repair or replace damaged linking bars, straps or bails. Sharpen points with a hand file as they dull. Carrying a hand file with you on long trips may be necessary.

A man transports good via bicycle at the Tsukiji Fish Market

In Tokyo exists one of the craziest places on earth. The Tsukiji Fish Market processes in excess of four and a quarter million pounds of fish with a value of more than fifteen million dollars every single day. However, if you want to see this show you have to get up early as the place is all but closed down by midday. The true spectacle is the tuna auction which starts at a few minutes after 5a.m. and finishes a couple hours later. Visitors are allowed however they are confined to designated areas, limited to 120 on a first-come first-serve basis and there are times the market is closed to the public, most notably around the new year. Once the auction concludes the goods are transferred via bike, cart and forklift to one of the almost 1,000 wholesale stalls. You would be well advised to keep your head on a swivel. If you keep a low profile and stay out of the way most visitors won’t be bothered and can roam the market and see the processing of all assortments of fish from the smallest minnows to large tuna weighing upwards of hundreds of pounds. If you go, know you won’t be alone and check the closures online at the markets homepage: http://www.tsukiji-market.or.jp/tukiji_e.htm
The market is composed not only of the inner market where the auction and processing take place but also an outer market. The outer market is where fish is sold at retail stalls along with prepared foods, hand crafted knives and kitchenware. Be on the lookout for sushi restaurants in the outer markets where you will taste some of the freshest toro possible.

Ice vendor cuts ice blocks

Ice gets loaded into the crusher

A market vendor receives ice to keep his goods cool

Tuna await transportation and processing after the early morning tuna auction

Tuna being transported via cart.

Men load a crate onto a cart

A fresh tuna awaits processing

Fish for sale in the outer market

Stanley

In Maine, Stanley developed quite a fondness for his Chuck-It bumper (pictured at left). Bumpers are specifically designed for to train retrievers to retrieve items, such as ducks, from the water. The bumper floats high in the water and the bright red and green colors make it easy to find, even in the choppy Maine waters. Easy to throw and the pup loves it even on land.
$12.50
www.chuckit.com

Stanley

Stanley got to spend a little over a week in Maine during the fall and he certainly seemed to enjoy the time away from the concrete jungle. Acadia National Park allows dogs in their campgrounds, something a lot of parks get wrong, and the town of Bar Harbor is extremely dog friendly. There was also a stop in Portsmouth, CT for a couple nights, also very accommodating of four-legged friends. Look for more on Maine in the next issue.

Stanley is looking forward to the coming winter more than we are. His love for the snow just can’t be explained. Now that he’s more or less fully grown Stanley will be joining us on even more adventures and sharing his stories here.

Admiralty Island

In 1993, I was a second-year wilderness guide leading day trips on Admiralty Island for brown bear watching. Brown bears are the same bear as grizzlies. Many decades ago, a hunting club decided any grizzly living within approximately 100 miles of saltwater would be called a coastal brown bear, while the interior bears kept the name grizzly. For those not familiar, Admiralty Island holds claim to having the world’s highest concentration of brown bears, with a little more than one bear per square mile. This population of bears is higher than the total grizzly population of the lower 48 combined. Native Tlingit call the island “Kootsnoowoo”, which translates roughly to “fortress of the bear”. On a typical day we would fly in via floatplane from Juneau, pick up canoes at a cache, and paddle over to prime bear-watching areas. We would then spend the day taking advantage of prime sightings, photographing the bears up close and personal – often within 10-20 feet of multiple bears, sometimes dozens at a time.

On this particular day I was to take two clients to an area known as Windfall Harbor. I obtained permits for this area as the rules of Admiralty Island, a National Monument, and UNESCO Biosphere Reserve, are tightly regulated. An area known as Pack Creek was the normal part of the island for our entry point, but today was different. Pack Creek was full, with another guided group and several independent observers already drawing the spaces for viewing the bears. While Pack Creek is frequented by sows – female bears – and cubs that are habituated to human presence, Windfall Harbor is known to have larger, non-human habituated boars. This presented a new facet of guiding and directing my clients for safe bear viewing. I was going to have to bring out the skills learned from years in the field, and a training class known as “bear school” I had to undertake for my guiding privileges.

Brown Bear

We loaded our gear into the De Havilland Otter in Juneau and flew to the canoe cache. After unloading and saying goodbye to our pilot and airplane, we watched the airborne “security-blanket” break the water’s surface and head east toward Juneau. We loaded out gear into the canoes and enjoyed a wonderful paddle over to Windfall Harbor, seeing harbor porpoise and dozens of eagles as we made our way through the calm, briny water. The weather was unseasonably hot, with temperatures approaching 85F degrees and blue skies; not exactly prime bear watching weather. Think of it this way, if you had a fur coat on, would you go out in 85F weather? Knowing that I had my work cut out for me, we began our search for the bruins.

We found plenty of fresh tracks on some tidal flats, but no bears. Around lunchtime we decided to head over to the designated lunch area, set up by the rangers, where we had tied off our bear boxes containing our picnic lunch. After a jovial lunch filled with jokes, tall tales and flat out lies we decided to head back out to the tidal flats in hopes of sighting bears. My concern was mounting, however, as I know that these clients pay considerable amounts of money for the opportunity of a bear sighting and I feel obligated to do everything in my power to get make that happen.

Shortly after lunch and back on the flats, one of the clients spotted what he thought were two bears in the distance, coming over a small knoll on the exposed tidal ground. Immediately my clients began assembling their gear and cameras. I focused my attention on the bears as they began coming toward us. Knowing that a bear’s eye-sight is very poor and thinking there was no chance they knew we were here, I told the clients to enjoy and get ready for the bears to get very close. As I continued to watch, the bears began to run towards us. As a guide, I had witnessed bear charges before, and knew that most of the charges are ‘false’ charges, where the bears charge to within ten or so feet of you and then stop, look at you and continue about their business. So I was alert and on guard, but not necessarily concerned as the bears started toward us.

That all changed, however when the bears started bearing down at us at full tilt. Now, they were about 1000 feet away running full speed in our direction. At this point I told the clients to get to the treeline, and if possible, get up a tree. I also told them not to run. So, naturally, the clients ran. I turned towards the bears, and for the first and only time in a career that has now spanned almost 20 years, brought my shotgun into the ready position and advanced a round into the chamber. The bears were coming, I had five rounds in a shotgun and I knew I had little chance of stopping one bear with the weapon, let alone two. I remember distinctly thinking at this point, “I quit. I don’t want guide anymore.” I remember thinking about writing a letter of resignation. Still, here were the bears and I had no choice but to deal with this situation.

What We Came to See -- Brown Bears

The bears stopped about 300 feet away. They stood there for several long, drawn out minutes and I was shaking but trying to hold my ground. As time passed I remember thinking that perhaps this was bluff charging after all, and that we would be fine. Then all hell broke loose.

The bears started coming at me full tilt again. My internal voice told me this was different, this was not a bluff. Against all training and better judgment, I too turned and ran. I was about 60 feet from the treeline and I went for it. I could swear I covered the distance in three steps. I made it to the trees, and was about eight feet past the tree line where I found a small dogwood tree and tried feebly to hide behind it. It provided a psychological respite even though it would do no good against the bruins.

The bears were now at the tree line but for some unknown reason they would not come into the trees. They did, however, show all the classic signs of aggression – popping jaws, flipping the hump, and pounding the ground. I was horrified. I also had to find my clients. I turned and looked into the trees, and there they were, each up their own small hardwood tree, rarities for the region.
What snapped me out of my fear and into anger was seeing one of the clients taking pictures of the whole affair. I was incensed by the thought of them profiting from photos of my impending, gruesome death by bruin. I barked at them to listen to me and proceeded to give instructions of what we would do when, or if, the bears left the area.

We waited five or so minutes, an eternity in a situation like this, and I then had to go out onto the tidal flats to see if they were still there. I summoned all my courage and went. The bears were gone, I instructed the clients to come down. We made it to the canoes, paddled over to the rendezvous spot, and waited for the floatplane to take us back to the urban safety of Juneau.

Back in Juneau we parted ways. I had paperwork to fill out and an extensive debriefing to go through, but we arranged to meet at the Red Dog Saloon that evening. When I met them later they already developed the film, this being pre-digital days. They gave me a set of the prints, which to this day are some of the most cherished pictures and possessions I own. Having a visual record of this bear charge is a gift. One of the clients then gave me three crisp, fresh, hundred-dollar bills and a business card. It turned out he was the manager of a very upscale hotel in New York City I was told to give him a call if I was ever in New York. A year later I was flying back from Turkey through New York City and called him. I ended up being put up in the hotel and had a grand time. When I was brought into his office, he proudly displayed the picture of the two of us, after the encounter. Not a bad finish truly remarkable adventure.

Eric Cedric is a former mountain guide and expedition leader with 20 years of professional experience. Cedric has worked on Denali, Elbrus and a handful of Himalayan peaks. In addition, Cedric is a private pilot and professional environmental and conservation writer. Cedric splits his time each year between the Adirondack Mountains, Southern California and Costa Rica.

Nikon Coolpix AW100

Nikon AW100

Nikon certainly wasn’t first to market with a ruggedized camera, in fact they were pretty close to last. That said, the wait was worth it. With built-in GPS (a glaring oversight on many cameras in this class) you can go back and find exactly where a photo was taken. No more guessing. Using software that will map photos such as Apple’s iPhoto, Google Earth, or the built in maps at the bar can be a fun way to share memories of your trip. The AW100 features full 1080p video, 16MP photos and one handed operation. The AW100 is designed to take a decent amount of abuse too. Waterproof up to 33ft. shockproof up to 5ft. and freezeproof make the Nikon AW100 one star performer in the outdoor camera arena. Probably not quite worth upgrading if you already have a camera in this class, but if not, this is the one.
$379.95
http://www.nikonusa.com

Hydro Flask Growler

Hydro Flask Growler

Earlier this year Hydro Flask released their growler and frankly, it’s glorious. The double wall insulation keeps beer fresh and cold until you’re ready to drink it, up to 24 hours. Because it’s made of 18/8 stainless steel it will stand up the abuse that riding in your pack all day will dish out. It also won’t break when if falls on the rock or gets banged around in the back of your car on the way home. You can also store anything you would like to keep warm in the growler (soup, chili, tea) but we prefer to the use it for it’s intended purpose. Hydro Flask makes double-wall insulated flasks in sizes ranging from 12oz. all the way up to the 64oz. growler including a food flask of which we are big fans of the entire line.
$49.99
www.hydroflask.com

Mountain Hardwear Medusa

Mountain Hardwear Medusa Gloves

Cold hands? No problem. Even while ice climbing all day in some of the most demanding conditions. Mountain Hardwear bonded their propriety OutDry waterproof membrane directly to the Medusa’s outer shell making the gloves some of the most waterproof gloves we have ever tried. The Medusa’s also include a removable windproof softshell liner not only makes the glove nice and warm but protect your hands when you need the added dexterity of not wearing the shells. The nose wipe on the thumb is another great feature. While the wipe isn’t the softest material on earth it does stay free of snow and ice. If you are looking for a pair of gloves that spends a decent amount of time outside during the winter you could do much, much worse than the Mountain Hardwear Medusa.
$150
http://www.mountainhardwear.com

Adventure Medical Kits

Travel Medical Kits by Adventure Medical Kits

Adventure Medical Kits makes first aid kits for a range of outdoor and travel medical kits wherever your choice of activity of destination. Adventure Medical Kits packs all of their kits in very organized kits that are very convenient to use and carry. Kits designed for use on the water include watertight cases, travel kits are in portfolio type cases that make for easy packing, and an women’s specific travel kit is available. If you have a loved one that spends much time outdoors or on the road get them piece of mind that comes with knowing they have medical supplies should they need them.
$10-70 (travel series)
http://www.adventuremedicalkits.com

Apple iPad

iPad 2

The last thing you need is someone else telling you how great the iPad is. Sorry, but it’s true. For those that travel on a regular basis lugging a laptop around can be a real pain. With countless travel apps for checking into flights, reserving hotels, finding things to do in a new city, and countless other tasks once you get hooked on your iPad for travel it’s tough to do without it. But it’s the fact that it can all but replace lugging around your laptop where the iPad shines. E-mail, web browsing, apps for blogging, text processing, presentations, and almost any other items you need to get done on the road. Presentations can even be given with available adapters. While doing a lot of content creation on the go can be a little awkward on the touchscreen a bluetooth keyboard is available that will ease that pain. Many people are big fans of the other e-readers on the market such as the Kindle and Nook as well. And while we can certainly get behind that we love the versatility the iPad offers. And while there are other tablets on the market that promise similar functionality none have caught on to this point. So this year it’s the iPad 2 that gets the nod and even with the 3G making travel more convenient the wi-fi version should be sufficient for most people.
$499-$829
www.apple.com

Donations to Charity

Charities in this country provide many services that are near and dear to many of our hearts. If you have someone in your life who travels or loves the outdoors there charities no doubt protect some of the land they use. With the prolonged economic problems currently facing us many charities have seen a large drop in donations and this can be your chance to help them. If you really don’t know what to get that special person maybe a donation in their name could be the best gift. Some examples for donations include the Access Fund, Doctors Without Borders, or even the Red Cross. Many local charities are great candidates for your gifts as well. In addition you get a tax deduction for this gift, it is the end of the year after all and it’s kind of like giving and getting at the same time.

On Consuming

With the holidays upon us it is almost too easy to get caught up in the giving spirit. While it is nice to receive things and certainly a joy to give please consider the impact before you buy something you don’t need. Monday, Nov 28 also known as Cyber Monday turned out to be a record in sales…ever. Patagonia on the other hand ran a full-page ad in the New York Times with the title ‘Don’t Buy This Jacket’ (ad below) reminding us that everything we buy damages the earth. No preaching, just thought the ad was worth sharing. Enjoy.

Patagonia 'Don't Buy This Jacket' Ad

Adventure Insider Magazine - Winter 2011

We are pleased to announce the release of the winter issue of Adventure Insider Magazine. You have two options to get a copy.
1) Download a copy
2) Buy a print copy from MagCloud

In this issue you’ll find out (admittedly last minute) holiday gift guide, a story of a wilderness guide who had a brush with a large bear, our mountaineering boot and crampon buyer’s guide, and a photo essay of the Tsukiji Fish Market in Tokyo. In addition you’ll find out standard sections: canine corner and exposed.

Check it out and let us know what you think.