A man transports good via bicycle at the Tsukiji Fish Market

In Tokyo exists one of the craziest places on earth. The Tsukiji Fish Market processes in excess of four and a quarter million pounds of fish with a value of more than fifteen million dollars every single day. However, if you want to see this show you have to get up early as the place is all but closed down by midday. The true spectacle is the tuna auction which starts at a few minutes after 5a.m. and finishes a couple hours later. Visitors are allowed however they are confined to designated areas, limited to 120 on a first-come first-serve basis and there are times the market is closed to the public, most notably around the new year. Once the auction concludes the goods are transferred via bike, cart and forklift to one of the almost 1,000 wholesale stalls. You would be well advised to keep your head on a swivel. If you keep a low profile and stay out of the way most visitors won’t be bothered and can roam the market and see the processing of all assortments of fish from the smallest minnows to large tuna weighing upwards of hundreds of pounds. If you go, know you won’t be alone and check the closures online at the markets homepage: http://www.tsukiji-market.or.jp/tukiji_e.htm
The market is composed not only of the inner market where the auction and processing take place but also an outer market. The outer market is where fish is sold at retail stalls along with prepared foods, hand crafted knives and kitchenware. Be on the lookout for sushi restaurants in the outer markets where you will taste some of the freshest toro possible.

Ice vendor cuts ice blocks

Ice gets loaded into the crusher

A market vendor receives ice to keep his goods cool

Tuna await transportation and processing after the early morning tuna auction

Tuna being transported via cart.

Men load a crate onto a cart

A fresh tuna awaits processing

Fish for sale in the outer market

The author readies for battle

With its sleepy, sedated reputation, I expected my recent journey around The Lao People’s Democratic Republic to be a gentle wander through Asia the way it used to be before high rises and KFCs took the place of indigenous hill tribes and wild elephants. Only once I joined up with Stray Travel Asia did I learn my trip dates fell during the one time of year where Laos is not so languid – the annual Water Festival.

Laos, Burma, Cambodia and Yunnan, China each celebrate the season in their own way during the second week of April, but it’s usually Songkran in Thailand that attracts the most attention and subsequent splashy (pun intended) photos in Western travel sections. I’d heard conflicting reports about the Pi Mai Laos festivities. Was it a milder, gentler version of Songkran or a celebration worthy of its own story? I set out to see for myself.

The Water Festival commemorates the sun beginning its journey north and traditionally is marked with cultural performances and religious ceremonies. Homes, temples and images of Buddha are given a good scrubbing in a countrywide spring-cleaning event. The revered act of watering came from the tale of King Kabinlaphom, who lost his head in a wager with an advisor. After decapitation, the seven princesses kept his head in a cave, visiting once a year to sprinkle it with holy water in the hopes of bringing prosperity and good weather to the land. Today, it’s customary for elders and monks to receive gentle sprinkles of flowered or perfumed water during the holiday to signify renewal and reverence. Once tradition is satisfied, the Water Festival becomes the wildest, wettest party of the year. This is great news for the non-monk because now tradition has evolved so even “falangs” can join in.

Touring with Stray Asia

Loation countryside

Traveling in the region is tricky in April, as trains and buses sell out quickly and accommodations can cost almost double. As a first time visitor, I wanted someone else to help me sort out the details so I chose to meet up with Stray Travel Asia, a hop-on, hop-off tour of Thailand and Laos with several predetermined tracks. I picked the Tom Yum pass, beginning in Bangkok, taking a train to historic Sukhothai and Chiang Mai, and snaking around north and central Laos via bus before a final night in the capital of Vientiane. Known for small groups and a very laid back vibe, Stray Travel Asia manages the transportation aspects of the experience – buses, trains, tuk-tuks, slow boats – and helps to book into (dirt cheap but nice) guest houses at each stop. The rest is really up to the individual. While I traveled straight through on the Tom Yum itinerary as scheduled, I met several folks who stopped for a few days or a week based on whims. It all depends how much time you have.

Since the trains to the north were booked up, our initial group of three (guide Anna and fellow traveler Amber) instead took public buses on the way to meet the big saffron-hued Stray bus across the Thailand/Laos border. After a fast bike trip around the sprawling historical park and the night market in sleepy Sukhothai, we made our way to the capital of Songkran, the ancient city of Chiang Mai. There’s plenty to entertain there, like the walled old town, dozens of wats, elephant parks and a famous night safari, not to mention a happening backpacker nightlife. This particular week though, everyone was in town for one reason – to get soaking wet at Songkran. Each stall at the night market offered half a dozen varieties of water guns; it seemed everyone was preparing for the Water Festival.

The Tom Yum pass allows for two nights in Chiang Mai, so we were able to sample a bit of Songkran before moving on to Laos. Our first run-in with water was after a relaxing Thai massage. Afterward, we found ourselves trapped inside the spa when a troupe of elementary school-aged kids set up a bunker just outside the door. Though we were able to divert the kids long enough to run screaming down the street and escape a soaking, a little old lady with a hose and a handful of American guys did us in on the way back to the guesthouse anyway.

Getting to know Laos

Loation kids prepare for the party of the year

We escaped Chiang Mai just in time to avoid a complete drenching and made our way to the border, spending a gecko-enhanced night in Chiang Khong, Thailand, before crossing the Mekong and clearing customs in Laos. It was there we met our Stray bus and local guide, Mr. Pon, and began the scenic drive through the Bokeo Province to celebrate the Water Festival in dusty Luang Namtha.

Luang Namtha is one of the best places to begin a true Laos trek and many travelers stop here to acquire a guide and head into the jungle. With so much Water Festival activity in town however, we spent the day dodging scattered pockets of kids and teens with water guns and garbage cans full of water, intent on saturating the newest ‘falangs’ in town. A fierce gang of water gun-wielding toddlers attempted to break into our guesthouse room once they saw we were dry and safe on the inside; luckily, they were unsuccessful in their attempts.  We managed to stay quite dry in Luang Namtha, but only due to strategic street crossing and a lot of fast running. In the evening once the random street soakings ended, we sampled phenomenal grilled duck and mango fruit shakes at the market, followed by a bewildering visit to Luang Namtha’s famous Chinese disco for Beerlaos and some bizarre dance moves with the locals.

A word to the wise: don’t drink too much Beerlaos at the Chinese disco, because the next day’s bus journey through Oudomxai is like riding the Magic Kingdom’s Thunder Mountain roller coaster for six hours.  Though scenic, the ride is not fun even if you don’t suffer from motion sickness; if you do, bring a bucket. Fortunately for the nauseous, we stopped about halfway to get lunch and de-nauseate. But instead of searching out grub, we spent our time locating the best water guns in order to be prepared for our arrival in Nong Khiaw. Little did we know we’d be soaked (and really hungry) long before we made it to the next stop.

As we drove along the rough mountainous roads, smatterings of Laos villagers would appear around the corner, prepared with Water Festival weaponry – guns, hoses, cups, buckets – and thwack! They’d splat our bus, which wasn’t a huge issue so long as we kept the windows closed. Once we had our own water guns however, we turned into a moving four-man war machine, hanging out of the moving bus’ open windows with our guns, spraying giggling children and screaming “Sabaidee Pi Mai!” like vikings on the rampage. Though it means a friendly “Happy Laos New Year,” our vigorous and earnest shouts sounded a bit more like “You’re going to die!” and certainly startled a villager or two along the way.

We drove through a larger village a few hours later, hollering and shooting like modern day pirates, when the bus stopped and Mr. Pon abruptly told us to get out. He and the driver were taking a break, right in the middle of the village. That would’ve been good to know before we soaked everyone along the road on the way in! As we got off the bus, dozens upon dozens of children with cups and buckets encroached and immediately war broke out. It wasn’t a fair fight; there were four of us and at least 50 kids. Ladies in the market roared with laughter as the youngsters splashed us again and again; the sleepy village erupted with activity and I’m sure they’ll remember the random epic falang fight for years to come.

Between the windy mountain bus ride and the village water war, we looked like we’d been through the spin cycle by the time we arrived at our rustic bungalows in dreamy Nong Khiaw, home to the sleepy Ou River, imposing limestone cliffs and Phathok Cave, where North Vietnamese sympathizers hid during the US bombing of Laos in the 1960’s. Water Festival activity was at a minimum here, so we finally had time to dry off, grab a great meal and play Petanque (a game that remained even after the French ended their occupation) with the locals before crashing hard in our sparse hillside shacks.

In the morning, we moseyed down the hill to board a slow boat for a lazy, beautiful six hour cruise up the Ou River to historic Luang Prabang. Rugged and secluded, the ride afforded a view of rural riverside Laos, highlighting the subsistence livelihood of many Laos people. After a brief stop at the Pak Ou caves where the Ou and the Mekong converge, we made our way to Luang Prabang, a UNESCO World Heritage site and one of the most romantic locations in all of Laos. Laos has been occupied by everyone from the Japanese to the French, so the myriad of influences at play in the cultural fabric can be seen in monasteries, Buddhist temples and French colonial architecture.

The Party of The Year

Do bring a waterproof camera

Although technically the Water Festival only lasts a few days, in many towns the party (and the soakings) lasts for a whole week. Since temperatures can reach more than 100 degrees during the hot dry season, no one really minds the constant dousing in cold water, but as we learned in Luang Prabang, Laotians have added to the arsenal of liquids to chuck at passersby. We were told to expect shaving cream, baby powder, paint and even motor oil, and did we ever get it.

Upon arrival, we found that due to the festivities, the Stray bus couldn’t get into the center of town to bring our luggage or our water guns. We’d have to manage with what we had on. It wasn’t hard to procure buckets, cups and a free hose from our guest house, so within moments of checking in, Anna, Amber, Franz and I were in the street whooping it up, soaking passing motorbikes and tuk-tuks like the locals did and beginning to experience the euphoria of the Water Festival.

We ran around Luang Prabang for hours, from hose to hose and bucket to bucket, dousing others and being doused in return, making new friends, dancing to Justin Bieber and Beyonce with groups of raucous teens and seeing the wild side of a normally conservative, quiet society. Only monks are exempt from soaking; I saw people dump freezing buckets of water on completely dry old ladies, tourists with all their luggage and even directly into cars onto drivers who forgot to lock the doors. If you dare show up in Laos the second week of April, accept that you’ll be wet the whole time. And not just wet. I was alternately covered in green, red and blue paint, followed by motor oil, topped off with a splash of baby powder for good measure. There’s no looking pretty on this day.

Later on at dinner, once we’d scrubbed off the paint and oil, we all agreed that our day celebrating the Water Festival in Luang Prabang was one of the most fun days any of us had ever had in our entire lives.

Early in the morning before the revelers were again rousted for more splashing, the monks passed by in their Stray Bus-orange robes and we departed for Vang Vieng, another riverside town in the throes of celebrating the Water Festival. While the scene here is normally filled with rowdy Westerners tubing from bank-side bar to bar, today was off the rowdy Richter scale as the locals joined in to crowd the shallow river and party the day away. There were thousands of people, Western and Laos, mingling, eating, dancing, drinking and singing, all while completely and utterly soaking wet from head to toe. Again, we met new friends, laughed at the silliest folks, splashed little kids and soaked up the gorgeous scenery around us.

Whether or not my journey through Laos displayed the true character of the country, I can’t say. For 51 other weeks out of the year, a trip to Laos would be a lazy jaunt filled with breathtaking scenery and gentle, peaceful people. For that one unusual week though, I felt like a kid instead of a traveler. Nothing else mattered but filling up my bucket and finding someone who really needed a good splash in the face.

Tips for visiting SE Asia during New Year

There’s no way around it, you’re going to get soaked. Pack plastic bags to house anything you don’t want to get wet.

Bring a waterproof camera. You don’t want to forget the watergun fights with village kids or the huge day-long celebrations in towns like Luang Prabang, but you just might if you can’t take any photos.

Dress conservatively. Despite the wild atmosphere during the Water Festival, Laos is no place to be parading around in a bikini and short shorts. Cover up in light fabrics that will dry easily.
By all accounts, Laos is still considered “off the beaten path,” offering everything from rugged mountains to lazy rivers to endless rice fields. Koh Phi Phi was once undiscovered, too, and I suspect it won’t be long before franchise restaurants and hotels spring up here like they have in other Southeast Asia hotspots. Laos is still an ideal destination to stretch the budget for a few weeks, costing around $30-40 a day, and it certainly qualifies as a notch on the obscure country travel bedpost.

Visiting Laos
www.strayasia.com

Angie Orth

About Angie Orth

Angie Orth is a location independent globe trekker. Born in Jacksonville, FL, and ultimately landing in Manhattan, she recently left a career in travel PR for adventures on the road. She’s passionate about the Florida Gators, trying everything at least once, and storytelling at www.angieaway.com.

New York City

Your first visit to New York City can be an intimidating experience.  NYC is big, fast, and unlike any other city in the world — a true urban adventure. Just like any other adventure, the key to making your trip an enjoyable and exciting experience is to arm yourself with some knowledge before you go, make a plan, and leave a little room in that plan for the unexpected. This beginners guide should help get you pointed in the right direction.

Geography and Layout

I often describe NYC as a country of it’s own, complete with states (the boroughs), and towns (neighborhoods).  New York City is composed of five boroughs.  Brooklyn, The Bronx, Manhattan, Queens, and Staten Island. Although each borough has great things to see, you’re likely to spend most of your time in Manhattan (referred to as “the city” by locals).  Manhattan is broken into many neighborhoods: the Upper West Side, Lower East Side, Murray Hill, and the Financial District to name a few.  Don’t be overly concerned about those, just know they exist.

The streets in Manhattan are laid out in a grid pattern.  Avenues run North-South and streets run East-West (see map below) with higher numbered streets to the North (uptown) and higher numbered avenues to the West.  This can make it quite simple to figure out which way to walk once you understand the pattern.  That said, below 14th St, things start to get to get a bit more confusing, and the whole of lower Manhattan is a jumble of named streets and tiny blocks. A map is key, and you may find yourself walking a block or two out of the way to figure out exactly where you are.

There are also several NYC map applications for the iPhone that you may find helpful. Isn’t technology wonderful?

Getting There

Although it is possible drive into New York, it’s not recommended.  Bridge and tunnel tolls are deliberately high to discourage people from adding to the traffic congestion in Manhattan, street  parking is extremely limited, and parking garages can be quite expensive. Navigating the city via the extensive network of buses and subway trains and the occasional taxi is not only much cheaper but also is often much quicker. So, it’s probably not surprising that we recommend getting to the city by plane or by train.

Airplane

There are three major international airports that service New York City: Newark, La Guardia, and John F. Kennedy.  Newark is located in Newark, New Jersey whereas La Guardia and JFK are located in Queens (a borough of New York City).  These airports are major hubs for many popular airlines, and JFK is a popular point of entry for many international flights. So, flights are easy to find and deals can be had if you’re willing to spend some time shopping around.  When shopping for flights most websites will allow you to use “NYC” as the destination which will generally search all three airports. Be careful however as searching for a round-trip ticket using this method will sometimes generate results that have you arriving into one airport and departing from a different one.

Transportation to and from each airport requires the use of trains or a taxi.  The information below should get you started.

If you’re coming in by train

• From Newark you will need to ride the AirTrain to “Newark Liberty International Airport” stop where you can transfer to an NJ Transit train bound for Penn Station in Manhattan.  Be aware there is also a Penn Station in Newark and you may need to change trains there.  Train tickets are purchased at NJ Transit ticket machines and normally include the AirTrain and NJ Transit fares.
• From La Guardia you will need to take a bus.  The M60 bus will take you to 125th Street in Manhattan where you can get on a number of subways.
• From JFK you can take the AirTrain.  The AirTrain connects with the New York City Subway “A”, “E”, “J”, and “Z” lines.  The AirTrain connects with the “A” at the Howard Beach station.  In order to get to the airport using this method you must be on a “Far Rockaway” train, not “Lefferts Boulevard”.  Connection with the “E”, “J”, and “Z” lines is at the Sutphin Boulevard station.  You can also connect to the Long Island Rail Road to Penn Station.

Of course cabs are also an option from all airports.  Although the price can be high for a cab it will save you considerable time and headache, particularly if you have much baggage or people as there is no additional fee for additional passengers.  Avoid drivers inside the terminals and in Newark negotiate your fare beforehand as the taxi operators are not as regulated as in New York.  Currently yellow cabs charge a flat $45 from JFK to any point in Manhattan.  While in the taxi stand line consider asking others where they are headed.  It’s a great way to reduce the cost of the cab and make new friends.

Rail

Amtrak serves New York Penn Station, located in the Midtown Manhattan.

Driving

Although not recommended, driving is an option.  I-95, I-80, and I-78 all come into the city via the Holland Tunnel, Lincoln Tunnel, or the George Washington Bridge.  Tolls can run upwards of $8 for the river crossing alone and traffic can be devilish.

Where to Stay

When looking for a hotel be cautious, some aren’t what they seem.  Consult a credible source before booking your accommodations.  Staying with someone you know in the area is always a great bet or for those more daring couch surfing is always an option.  If you want to have a great experience and don’t mind a little money for it check out the Kimpton Hotels, you can even bring your four-legged traveling companion.  In addition there is a free wine hour every evening.  If you are looking to go on the cheap, NYC also has numerous hostels to choose from.  Outside that, there are literally thousands of hotels to meet most people’s taste and budget.

New York Skyline

Getting Around

New York City is served by a great mass transit system consisting of 660 miles of subway track and 208 bus routes that serve some 7.6 Million people daily.  Most subway lines and bus routes run 24/7 with reduced service during late night, holidays, and weekends.  A free subway map can be picked up at a manned ticket booth is any subway station.  Because the subway can be a little intimidating the first time you ride here are a few tips for your trip:

• Know the difference between local and express.  Express trains don’t make all stops.
• Read the signs.  When transferring trains signs will point you in the right direction.
• When ascending or descending stairs or an escalator, stay to the right.
• Be ready to exit.  During rush hour the trains can be very full.  Don’t decide at the last moment you need to get off.
• Know the stop before and after the one you want.  This will help you prepare and also serves as a backstop if you happen to miss your stop.
• When getting on a train, do not stand in front of the doors.  Stand to the side and let people off before you board.  Trust me it’s quicker.  Also, when exiting don’t stop and look for signs/maps until you are well clear.  This just slows down the people who know where they are going.
• Knowing the layout of Manhattan streets and avenues can aide your subway exit.  Many exits are marked with the intersection and the side of the street it will come up on.  Not only will this aid you in using the right exit but you won’t have to ask for directions.
• If you are not sure of something, ask.  New Yorkers have a reputation for being rude but will generally help if simply asked.

NYC is also known for yellow cabs.  There are more than 13,000 yellow cabs in the city and your chances of getting one on a cold rainy night are slim to nil.  However, most other times it’s not a big problem.  Yellow cabs are well regulated and rides will always be metered.  Less than $10 will get you a few miles and there is no charge for additional passengers.  Again, a few tips:

• Be clear on where you want to go.  The drivers may not know the name of the restaurant so give an intersection or street with cross streets. For example, if you’re headed to Katz’s Delicatessen for some pastrami on rye and a glimpse of the table from that famous scene in ‘When Harry met Sally’ you can ask your cab driver to drop you at Houston (pronounced HOW-stun, not like that city in Texas) and Ludlow.
• Available cabs will have the number on the top of the cab illuminated.  If it is extinguished it is occupied and if the outer lights are on the driver is off duty. Check out this post on Abroad’r View for more on cab tips and etiquette.
• Be ready with payment.  All yellow cabs now accept credit cards, but be ready with cash just in case.

Beyond that NYC is a great walking city, so wear comfortable shoes!! If you’re armed with a decent map and willing take to the sidewalk you’ll be rewarded with the discovery of smaller ‘local’ establishments that are off the beaten tourist path.

What to See

Food

New York is known to have some of the best restaurants on the planet.  There are plenty of very well known high end restaurants such as Per Se, Jean Georges and Daniel but there are thousands of restaurants that offer some of the best food at a much more casual atmosphere and more reasonable price.  Below are my personal favorites that I would recommend to anyone.  Keep in mind that inexpensive in NY may be skewed compared to what you are normally accustomed to.

Inexpensive

• Vanessa’s Dumpling House – If you like dumplings, don’t miss Vanessa’s.  This place is crazy cheap, and delicious.
• The Bourgeouis Pig Cafe – The cure for your fondue cravings.
• La Palapa – Great Mexican food and of course, margaritas.

Not as Inexpensive

• Blue Smoke – A phenomenal BBQ joint run by the famed Danny Meyer.  Live jazz is played seven days a week downstairs.
• The Little Owl – Casual yet upscale dining in Greenwich Village (a neighborhood on the lower east side).
• Blue Hill Farms – A restaurant inspired by an upstate farm that sources their food only from local farms.

This is just a quick list.  Check out Yelp , CitySearch and Serious Eats for more great places.

Pizza

Because it’s such a popular question I will devote a section to Pizza.  One thing that is not and never will be decided is where the best pizza is in NYC.  Instead, decide for yourself.

• Lombardi’s – The first licensed pizzeria in NYC.
• John’s – Avoid the one in Times Square and head to the original on Bleeker Street.
• Grimaldi’s – Under the Brooklyn Bridge (on the Brooklyn side) this small place offers some of the best ‘pie’ in the city.

Keep in mind, none of these places accepts reservations, you can’t get a ‘slice’ and it’s generally cash only.  It is, however worth it.

Drinks

• Dive 75 – Fun little place uptown complete with Jenga and Connect Four.
• The Little Branch – Get a lesson in all things alcohol.
• The Back Room – Enjoy your drinks in teacups, an ode to the prohibition era, in the main room.
• Death and Company – A small, dark, upscale and trendy place.
• Brandy Library Lounge – Select a glass of your favorite nightcap from what is the largest selection of brandy and scotch I have ever seen.
• The Other Room – A collection of three bars that are great for dates.

Places

There are tons of guides filled with information on what not to miss and surely you have your own list.  Here are a few places I take people who come visit.

• Grand Central Terminal – One of the icons of New York.  Check out the Campbell Apartment inside, now a bar.
• Public Library Main Reading Room – Visit the reading room
• Ellis Island – Catch the ferry at the terminal in Battery Park to visit The Statue of Liberty (reservations are required to visit her crown) and Ellis Island. Perhaps you can find your ancestors in their extensive registry.
• Central Park – Without the 843 acre park there would be 8 million crazy (crazier?) New Yorkers.
• Museums – From the Museum of Modern Art to the Museum of Natural History to the Museum of Sex and everything in between.

Resources

Google Maps (including mobile) give transit directions in NYC and if you do have a mobile version for your phone will help with walking directions as well.  There are numerous guides as well.  One favorite of mine is the Not For Tourist (NFT) Guide (Buy).

Links

• MTA – Mass Transit Authority.  The operator of NYC subways and buses.
• NJT – New Jersey Transit.  Operates Newark AirTrain and connecting train to New York Penn Station.
• Amtrak – Amtrak serves New York Penn Station.
• Newark – Newark Liberty International Airport
• La Guardia – La Guardia International Airport
• JFK – JFK International Airport

Special thanks to Elizabeth and Fu for contributions to this article.