After my recent visit to The Bahamas, I realized that too many people may hear the name “The Bahamas” and automatically visualize the grandiose, Vegas-like Atlantis super-complex on Paradise Island or an easily forgettable stop in the port of Nassau during a Caribbean cruise. These people are greatly mistaken and (unfortunately) uninformed about overly-friendly residents and unique character of The Bahamas and its 700 islands and cays.  Once port visitors venture past the strip of duty-free shopping on Bay Street, they will find Nassau’s true identity bursting at the seams with its rich history defined by its unique landscape, colonial architecture, evidence and stories of pirates and 18th century explorers and true Bahamian culture.

For first-time visitors, Nassau is a great way to begin your exploration of the Bahamas.  With countless historical landmarks, beautiful colonial  buildings and pristine beaches, one could happily spend days sightseeing.  A great way to see Nassau’s true natural beauty is by chartering a boat to explore the coast and nearby islands.  Captain Ryan Russell at High Seas Excursions (http://highseasbahamas.com) can provide a personalized trip off the coast of Nassau, whether its fishing, snorkeling or discovering private beaches on remote islands.  His intimate knowledge of the surrounding islands and extremely kind, laid back crew will provide an adventure that guests will not forget.  Nassau also provides the perfect setting to begin the exploration of the maritime Bahamian cuisine, which is essential to the backbone of Bahamian culture.  Residents pride themselves on serving some of the freshest seafood in the world.  Here, conch reigns supreme with Caribbean lobster running a close second.  If you are in Nassau during the weekend, inquire about the Fish Fry, a notorious community gathering dedicated to eating local cuisine and meeting new people.

Much of the essence of Nassau, past and present, is captured at the Graycliff Hotel (http://www.graycliff.com).  This exquisite colonial building turned perfect vacation getaway was originally built in 1740 by Captain John Howard Graysmith, a pirate of the Caribbean.  The establishment’s extremely gregarious, hospitable proprietor and welcoming staff will show you 5 star living within its nearly 300 year old property.  Relax with a bottle (or two) of wine and a cigar in the lobby (which could pass as a James Bond movie set) and spark conversation with first jolly Italian gentleman with a necklace made of gold shipwreck treasure.  There is only one, and his name is Enrico.  If you get him on the right day, be prepared to stay up until early hours of the morning listening to stories of his former life as a Ferrari race car driver and international bachelor.  Guests who are lucky enough to experience Enrico’s overly animated storytelling can be guaranteed a sore stomach the next morning from the hours of convulsive laughter through the night.

The Greycliff now boasts the third largest privately owned wine cellar in the world, a cigar factory and one of the county’s only 5 star restaurants.  The wine cellar, a former prison, holds some of the rarest wines in the world including Bordeaux wines predating World War II, as well as the oldest registered bottle of wine, a 1727 German Riesling.  The Greycliff Cigar Company has become one of the most recognized name in fine cigars.  Guests at the Greycliff are able to tour the cigar factory, witness the magical process of cigar rolling and even try to roll their own.  At the Greycliff Restaurant the chefs expertly and harmoniously blend Bahamian, French and Italian cuisines to create one of the most exquisite fine-dining experiences in the Bahamas.  There are few places in the world where one can learn to roll a cigar, tour one of the rarest collections of wines in the world and enjoy a lobster cappuccino.  The Greycliff Hotel is a historical landmark and a must-see destination for anyone who sets foot in Nassau.

Now for adventure!

Nearly 23 out of 700 islands are inhabited, which leaves a lot of room to explore.  Most larger islands and even several cays have airports, and further exploration can be done via boat.  With vast areas of reef, James Bond-inspiring landscapes, unique geological structures and rich fisheries, The Bahamas provide any type of outdoor adventure that you can think of including, spear fishing for lobster and grouper, scuba diving on unexplored reefs or blue holes, trekking through uninhabited islands and even surfing on the outer islands.

One of the best ways to begin a tour of the Bahamian Islands is by flying into Exuma, also called the Pearl of the Bahamas, via Sky Bahamas or any other Bahamian airline.  The Exumas are a tropical paradise made of a chain of 365 cays and islands stretching over 100 miles with two major islands, Great Exuma and Little Exuma.  The northern tip is located 35 miles southeast of Nassau.  The Exumas offer hundreds of miles of empty, pristine white-sand beaches, an over-abundance of marine activities and spectacular geological structures.  The bright aquamarine water is so intensely colorful that it turns the clouds blue.  The islands are dotted with towns of historical importance that were settled during England’s colonial rule as commerce hubs or plantation settlements.  The Exumas’ culture exemplifies Bahamian lifestyle on the outer islands.  The landscape dictates the way of life.  Residents are easy-going and say that they would not live anywhere else in the world.  Many catch their food from the sea daily and have a visceral connection to the delicate marine ecosystem.

The best way to experience The Exumas’ adventures to the fullest potential is by chartering a boat to the northern islands and cays with Captain Pat Smith at Four C’s Adventures (http://www.exumawatertours.com/).  Capt. Pat will have his boat ready to launch when you reach Baraterre, located at the northern tip of Greater Exuma.  After you have made it this far, it’s your marine playground.  Here, the true adventure begins.

During the full day excursion, Capt. Pat navigates north through crystal clear waters passing untouched beaches and celebrity-owned islands.  Passengers can request to stop the boat to explore anything they desire including islands, reefs, sandbars or perhaps dock at locally owned bar along the way to chat with the locals about day-to-day life in the islands and cays.  As a member of a guided tour, visitors are able to participate in some of the most Bahamian of activities, diving for conch and spearfishing for lobster.  Guides have the local knowledge to ensure a successful hunt resulting in the most rewarding meals of a lifetime.  Conch is a staple in the Bahamian diet, and conch salad is the most celebrated dish.  Once lunch is caught, Capt. Pat will boat to a sandbar that rises from the middle of the sea.  Then, he expertly butchers the conch and dices onions, tomatoes, green bell peppers and chiles.  Add fresh lime juice, orange juice and sea salt and lunch is served.

Staniel Cay provides a great base to explore the northern part of the Exumas.  In fact, it is so perfectly positioned that it provided the base for the filming of the 1965 James Bond movie, Thunderball.  Accommodations, boat rentals and kayak rentals are available at the Staniel Cay Yacht Club (www.stanielcay.com).  Only a two minute boat ride from the Staniel Cay Yacht Club is the infamous Thunderball Grotto, an underwater cave saturated with tropical marine life and breathtaking underwater geological features.  Be sure to bring a waterproof camera.  If you are thrill-seeking and the tide is high enough, climb to the top of the cave (bring booties) and take the 20 foot plummet through the narrow hole at its peak.

Staniel Cay is a scuba diver’s paradise.  Located just a short boat ride north, the Exuma Cays Land and Sea Park offers 176 square miles of wildlife reserve and national park.  The PADI dive center on the island, Staniel Cay Divers (http://www.stanielcaydivers.com) can guide divers to a range of sights — from a relaxing drift dive for those looking to become certified to a technical deep water dive for the highly experienced.  The adventurous owner/divemaster of Staniel Cay divers prides himself for quality over quantity, so crowds on the boar are never an issue.  With countless dive spots never visited, the possibilities for new exploration are nearly endless.   Danger Bay, located within the nature refuge proved to be a great dive.  The dive begins with a 40 foot descent with reef sharks circling.  After the descent, divers tour of the underwater coral maze teeming with eels, lion fish, lobsters, tropical fish and conch.   After about 30 minutes of swimming through small caves and under overhanging coral structures the dive path winds back around to the boat where the sharks surround one last time.  Divers of all levels are guaranteed to be pleased with the dive opportunities just a short boat ride from Staniel Cay, weather permitting.  The PADI dive center is extremely accommodating and will find the right dive for any level of experience.

Although exploring the Thunderball Grotto and the Exuma Cays Land and Sea Park provides the most the most adventurous experience around Staniel Cay, other locations can provide relaxing entertainment.  Boaters can dock at nearby Compass Cay to swim with the island’s friendly nurse shark population or just pet them from the dock.  Visitors can also find the swimming pigs of Big Major Cay.  The geographic misplacement and unorthodox activities of the pigs has captured the fascination of visitors.  Whether the pigs were brought intentionally as a food source or escaped a sinking vessel, the pigs have created a remote colony in the middle of the Exumas.

After exploring the northern cays and islands, Greater Exuma and Little Exuma offer visitors plenty of opportunities for rest and relaxation.  A day with OFF Island Adventures (www.offislandadventures.com) is the perfect way to finish an adventurous tour around the Exumas.  Captain Steve’s laid-back, educational tour around Elizabeth Harbour is breathtaking.  The 6th generation Bahamian will point out amazing rock structures, blue holes and world famous sandbars that attract top fashion icons for photo shoots, as well as the filming of the blockbusters, Pirates of the Caribbean II and III.  As lunch time approaches or thirst sets in, ask Capt. Steve to stop by Chat N Chill on Stocking Island (http://www.chatnchill.com).  The restaurant is off the beaten path and only accessible by boat.  Public transportation is available by water taxi from the Government Dock in Georgetown.  Chat N Chill epitomizes a tropical destination bar and grill.  It is a great place to mingle with locals, play volleyball with new friends or find a secluded spot on the restaurant’s expansive beachfront property.  If feeling particularly indigenous, order the famous Bahamian Goombay Smash and a conch burger.  Do not miss out on the island’s pig roast every Sunday at noon; however, great food, drinks and conversation are guaranteed on any given day.  For those feeling overly hedonistic, the Sandals Emerald Bay Resort and Spa (http://www.sandals.com/main/emerald/em-spa.cfm) offers a range of services designed to soothe mind and body.  The deep tissue sports massage can be quite useful after snorkeling for dinner, diving with sharks and day-long boat excursions.

After touring Nassau and The Exumas by land and sea, it is clear to me why Bahamians love their way of life.  The country’s unique landscape and colonial history have shaped its people and culture.  Bahamians depend on the vulnerable marine ecosystem as a food source and as an attraction for their thriving tourism industry.  This respect for the sea and its gifts drives a nationwide respect for not only natural resources but for neighbors as well. The result is a nation with a low domestic crime rate and minimal environmental exploitation.  The Bahamian people and their land are welcoming and hospitable.  The love of their country is unwavering and infectious.

Must-Do List:

• Dive in Exuma Cays Land and Sea Park in northern Exumas
• Visit the Greycliff Hotel, Restaurant, Wine Cellar and Cigar Company in Nassau
• Snorkel for conch and make your own conch salad
• Visit Chat N Chill (best on Sundays) on Stocking Island
• Explore the Thunderball Grotto just north of Staniel Cay
• Order lobster at Santana’s Bar and Grill in Williamstown, Little Exuma

About Jonas Ahern

Jonas grew up in southern Delaware, coastal Maryland, and central Florida and attended the University of Florida.  While earning a B.A. in History and a B.S. in Zoology, he discovered his love of travel, wine, craft beer and home brewing.  During his study abroad in Sydney, Australia he became hooked on adventure travel.  He backpacked through the Tasmanian wilderness, studied reef ecology on a small island in the Great Barrier Reef and endlessly searched for new and remote surf spots up and down the east coast of Australia.

After graduating from college, his obsession with adventure inspired him to pack up and drive cross country. He worked seasonally for two years between wineries in Northern California and a ski resort in Vail, Colorado.  He now lives in New York City and works as a craft beer and wine specialist.

Bellingham, Washington

This article originally published in the September 2010 issue of Adventure Insider Magazine.

Bellingham, Washington is a growing city that has been able to keep the smaller town charm while offering some really exciting adventures. Being in the northwest corner of Washington state between Bellingham Bay and the North Cascades Mountain range makes Bellingham great for both water and mountain adventures. Bellingham has received awards for everything from best paddling destination (Outside Magazine in August 2006) to 7th best locale for mountain biking (Mountain Bike magazine in June 2001) to being named one of the top adventure cities in the United States by National Geographic Adventure.

Bellingham, Washington

On your next (or first!) visit to Bellingham, be sure to head up to Mt. Baker. A 30-45 minute drive up Mt. Baker highway (Highway 542) from the city of Bellingham will get you to gorgeous hiking or skiing, depending on the season. When I went towards the end of July, Artist Point had just opened due to the walls of snow along the road and I actually got to do a bit of sledding. With over 200 miles of trails, there is definitely something for everyone from the beginner to the more advanced hiker (http://www.fs.fed.us/ r6/mbs/about/mbrd.shtml). After a day at Mt. Baker, fill up on some authentic Italian food at Milano’s Restaurant (http://www.MilanoRestaurant.us) in Glacier, just off of Highway 542, or grab a beer at North Fork Brewery (http:// northforkbrewery.com), also just off Highway 542. The North Fork Brewery, also known as a beer shrine and Wedding Chapel, makes hand-crafted British ales served directly to the tap room from serving tanks.

If you forgot your bicycle or ski gear, head over to Fairhaven Bike & Ski (http://fairhavenbike.com). In addition to renting equipment, the store is also a great place to jump onto the Interurban Trail into Downtown Bellingham or over to the Larrabee State Park. Looking for a great brewery in town? Besides being voted Best Washington Brewery and Best IPA in the Northwest by Northwest Brewing News, at Boundary Bay Brewery (http://www.bbaybrewery.com) you can find live music, community events, and a great local crowd outside in the beer garden.

It’s not just hiking, skiing, and biking, you can also find kayaking, sailing, and even whale watching within miles of Bellingham city limits. With so many year round activities, it’s easy to see why Bellingham is one of the best adventure locations in the United States.

About Abbie

Abbie Mood

Abbie lives in Southern California and, in addition to being a freelance writer, teaches preschool Special Education. Originally from Delaware, she moved to California after graduating from the University of Delaware with a Bachelor’s degree in early childhood development. Abbie earned a Master’s in special education from Cal State Fullerton while she developed a love for the outdoors and exploring. She has been an avid runner for more than ten years and has more recently taken up rock climbing. Abbie takes every break from teaching as an opportunity to get out and go (often with pups Daisy and Sadie in tow). Check out Abbie’s adventures on AbbieMood.com and keep and eye out for her soon-to-be re-launched travel sneakersandsuitcases.com, or on Twitter @AbbieMood!

Abbie is an intern at the Matador Network, the budget expert for Planet Eye Traveler online magazine, and Managing Editor for Barefoot-Running.us. She has also contributed to BootsnAll, and Adventure World magazine.

I was able to visit Bellingham courtesy of the Whatcom County Tourism Board, but the suggestions are based on my own opinions.

Los Haitises National Park

The North Coast of the Dominican Republic is quickly gaining a reputation for being one of the next big adventure spots. With everything from diving to hiking to kiteboarding and windsurfing, it’s easy to see why. On a recent trip sponsored by the Ministry of Tourism, I was able to experience some of these activities firsthand.

The Samaná Peninsula is a great starting place. It’s roughly a 3.5 hour drive from the airport in Santo Domingo, or a 2.5 hour drive from the airport in Puerto Plato. There are quite a few all-inclusive resorts and a couple bars in the town of Samaná on the southern part of the peninsula, but if you are looking for something more low-key, I would suggest staying in Las Terrenas on the northern part. Las Terrenas is becoming more developed, but still has some good hotel options, great restaurants, and public beaches if you want to hang out with the locals. Besides the miles and miles of beautiful beaches, there are two main attractions in this area – Salto de Limón and Los Haitises National Park.

Limón Waterfall

The Limón waterfall is just 1 km away from Las Terrenas, and can be reached by horseback or by hiking the (roughly) 4 km trail through the Dominican vegetation and across crystal clear streams. If you decide to go by horseback, I would recommend Parada Basilio y Ramona (Tel. 829-661- 4137 or email paradabasilioyramona@yahoo.es). Each person gets a horse and a guide will lead you to the 170 foot waterfall where you can swim and cool off. We also found a smaller waterfall along the way that had no people at all and would be great for spending some time swimming alone. There were a couple of other groups at the Salto de Limón, but the swimming hole is so big that there was plenty of room for everyone to take a dip. After our ride, we had a traditional Dominican Republic meal of red beans and rice, vegetables, and tostones (smashed and fried plantains). The ride and lunch costs roughly $20-25 USD.

Los Haitises National Park, a protected virgin forest with little road access (it is possible to access with a 4 wheel drive vehicle from the south), is best reached by a 20-30 minute ride across the Samaná Bay by boat. It’s becoming a more popular destination, but the number of tourists is limited by the government, so it’s unlikely to be crowded.

Water Chutes

The park looks like something from a movie, with white sandy beaches, lush green forests, and rocky cliffs. Ride through mangroves, and past Cayo de los Pájaros, where hundreds of birds have made their homes. There are several caves throughout the park, etched with pictographs from the Tainos Indians, the original inhabitants of the area. There are several isolated beaches along the coast of the park that you could stop at, or hang out with the fisherman before they head back into town to sell their catch.

We visited Los Haitises with Amilka Tours, who will pick you up from your hotel in Las Terrenas and take you to their dock. If you would rather get there yourself, they are located in the town of Sanchez. They also provide a traditional Dominican meal upon returning, for a total for $45 USD, including transportation.

Cabarete is the outdoor activity capital of the Dominican Republic, and is roughly 2 hours northwest of the Samaná Peninsula. With both native Dominicans and a high population of expats from all over the world, this is the place to be outside all day and grab a beer at a beachside bar afterwards.

If you walk the beach at Cabarete you will see windsurfers and kiteboarders everywhere – both in the water and on the beach. You can stop pretty much anywhere along the main drag and rent a board or get a lesson. If you want more information about kiteboarding, visit Cabarete Kiteboarding. If windsurfing is more your style, visit Cabarete Windsurfing for all the details you need.

Water chutes are the only way down

If you are looking for adventure, this is it. Start with your life jacket and helmet and follow the guide into the forest and across streams until you arrive at the first fall. They get your confidence up by giving you a ladder for the first one, but after that its rope climbing and pulling yourself up against the rushing water (with some help from the guides if you need it). Once you get to the last waterfall, the only way back down is to jump off 25 foot cliffs and slide down natural water shoots.

We went with a guide from Iguana Mama, located in the middle of Cabarete, who will pick you up from your hotel in Cabarete and guide you up the 27 Falls for $79 USD (not including tax). Iguana Mama also leads eco-responsible tours for those interested in mountain biking, hiking & ziplining, diving & snorkeling, rafting & kayaking, and horseback riding.

Just (approximately) 10 miles west of Cabarete, Sosúa is it’s own town, but with all the action in Cabarete, it makes sense to catch a ride to get to the nearby diving. I had never been snorkeling before, so I wasn’t quite sure what to expect. We went out with North Coast Diving, who were very knowledgeable and helpful for a first-time snorkeler, but also have a variety of trips for serious divers.

An eel checks me out

We stopped at the Three Rocks area and jumped in. As soon as I put my head underwater I saw all kinds of ocean life – tiny yellow fish, blue striped fish, coral, sea plants. I was so glad to have an underwater camera. The guide even dove down and snapped a picture of an eel that was hiding from us! We went to another site and saw tons of fish there, too. It was definitely an amazing experience. The 3 hour snorkeling cruise is $45 USD and includes equipment, snacks, a guide, a fish identification chart, and the chartered boat with a canopy to get out of the sun. North Coast Diving will pick you up in Cabarete for $15 USD round-trip.

What you need to know

Now is a great time to visit the North Coast because even though it’s gaining a reputation for adventure activities, it is not yet as crazy as some of the beach destinations like Punta Cana. Most tourists visit between December and April, so unless you like the crowds, I would plan a visit between May-October. The rainy season is technically from May/June-October/November, but the North Coast doesn’t really get hurricanes like other Caribbean countries, so if you can handle on-again, off-again rain, you should be fine.

Visa fee – There is currently a $10 visa fee to pay upon your arrival at the airport, but no fee to leave.

Currency – The Dominican Republic peso and the American dollar can both be used. Major credit cards are usually accepted.

Water – Drink bottled water or bring a purification system. Depending on your hotel, you may be able to drink their tap water, but it’s probably best to be safe and go with bottled.

A great website with any other information you might need to know is Go Dominican Republic. For more photos, check out my Adventure Insider Dominican Republic photo essay!

About Abbie

Abbie Mood

Abbie lives in Southern California and, in addition to being a freelance writer, teaches preschool Special Education. Originally from Delaware, she moved to California after graduating from the University of Delaware with a Bachelor’s degree in early childhood development. Abbie earned a Master’s in special education from Cal State Fullerton while she developed a love for the outdoors and exploring. She has been an avid runner for more than ten years and has more recently taken up rock climbing. Abbie takes every break from teaching as an opportunity to get out and go (often with pups Daisy and Sadie in tow). Check out Abbie’s adventures on AbbieMood.com and keep and eye out for her soon-to-be re-launched travel sneakersandsuitcases.com, or on Twitter @AbbieMood!

Abbie is an intern at the Matador Network, the budget expert for Planet Eye Traveler online magazine, and Managing Editor for Barefoot-Running.us. She has also contributed to BootsnAll, and Adventure World magazine.

While the trip was sponsored by the Ministry of Tourism, any opinions expressed are my own.

Our first adventure was trekking to the Salto de Limon (Limon Waterfall). This was our view!

The waterfall! The cool pool of water was welcome on a hot day!

We had a traditional Dominican meal when we got back from the falls.

The next day we visit Los Haitises National Park by boat and rode through the mangroves.

This is one of the caves we explored.

Day 3 was our favorite activity - waterfall cascading! We climbed up to the 12 waterfall and then and then slid and...

...jumped our way back down!

The next morning we got up bright & early to get on the teleferico (cable car) to the top!

At the top of Mount St. Isabel

The last day was my first snorkeling experience!

More snorkeling. So glad I had a waterproof camera!

Look for a full length feature on why the North Coast is the new destination for adventure travelers in the debut issue of Adventure Insider mag in a few weeks! Make sure you subscribe to Adventure Insider Magazine

Looking Back

I headed off to Montana with the plan of backpacking the Coal/Nyack Creek Loop in the southern region of Glacier National Park.  I had seen from the online trail reports that there had been some avalanches in the area resulting in quite a few trees down and waist high river crossing about a week before my visit.  What I failed to realize from the report was the sheer numbers of trees that would have to be negotiated in order to complete the loop.  The rangers at the permit office put the number at somewhere in the ‘many hundreds’.  With that bit of information, we changed our plans.  The ranger then helped set up a trip that he was sure would be worth the effort. Worth the trip it was!

Let me start by saying I, as a general rule, try to avoid trips that require a lottery, are over-populated, and even require a permit if possible.  That said, the trip to Glacier was absolutely worth the hassle of the permitting process.  It was a fortunate set of circumstances that we happened to be at the west end of the park and started our backcountry  the following day on the east end of the park.  This required us to drive the Going-to-the-Sun Road that traverses the park east-west and is more than likely the best 50 miles you will ever drive.  Mountain goats, waterfalls, glacial valleys, and wild berries are just a few of the wonderful things you will experience on this trip.  It is worth the trip even if happens to take you out of the way.

Day 0

Small Waterfall

After dropping our car at the Chief Mountain Trailhead (our terminus) we took the shuttle to Many Glacier and acquired a hiker/biker campsite.  Although these are communal campsites it is best to inquire about them before dropping you car, cost: $5/person.  Pizza and a couple beers that evening at the Many Glacier General Store hit the spot and the next morning we hit the trail.  Now, before I divulge our itinerary I want to point out that there are so many remarkable places in Glacier that almost any combination of campsites is worth the trip.  Also keep in mind the big passes that can be downright intimidating are some of the most magnificent places to see.

Day 1

Over Ptarmigan pass and through Ptarmigan Tunnel (yes, it’s an actual tunnel).  Upon exiting the tunnel you will see Elizabeth lake far below you.  Continuing down the trail will bring Helen Lake into view along with many peaks sporting glaciers and huge waterfalls.  Further down the trail we merged with the Continental Divide Trail and eventually arrived at Elizabeth Lake (Foot) Campground.  From there it was a magnificent hike to Elizabeth Lake (Head) Campground for the night.  Here there is a little sandbar

Dawn Mist Falls

that you can ford out to for a little relaxation sitting in a glacial valley surrounded by numerous peaks and ridges.  In  hindsight I think continuing another couple miles to Helen Lake Campground would be worth the little extra effort.

Day 2

Heading back towards the foot of Elizabeth Lake and continuing to Cosley Lake Campground.  On the route we passed Dawn Mist Falls and were pleased to see a small spur that leads to the bottom of the falls.  This spur is only about a tenth of mile long is pretty much flat, making the side trip for lunch and a refreshing dip a no-brainer.  The trail is pretty flat and wandering until we reached a river fording about a half mile from the campground.  After the ford and re-installing our feet in our shoes we proceeded the last half mile where we saw a black bear scavenging berries and decided to help ourselves as well, after we were well clear of the bear.  Cosely Lake sits at the base of a cliff and is fed by the run off from Stoney Indian Pass.  A fishing pole here may serve as one of the better items to bring.  Here, each campsite is along the water with a thin stand of brush and trees and a personal trail leading to the water.  Deer are very prominent in this area and tend to crave the salt we bring along.  I caught a doe licking the handles of my trekking poles numerous times even as I approached her.

Day 3

Morning Fog in Glacier N.P.

We continued west a short distance to Mokowanis Junction Campground.  Due to the short day we decided to take a day hike after lunch and a nap.  Mokowanis Lake is reported by one guide we met, to be a great spot for a swim.  Stoney Indian Pass offers glacier pools coupled with waterfalls and steep climbing.  We chose the pass, and we not at all disappointed.  Huge waterfalls and a dip in a 58° glacial pond was what the doctor ordered.  This was by far the pinnacle of the trip and is what has me wanting to return again.

Day 4

Backtracking day.  Heading east now past Cosley Lake a few miles into Gable Creek Campground.  Hiking the vistas of the park and picking wild berries to munch on made the day memorable.

Day 5

The end of the road.  Heading out to Chief Mountain was the slowest going on the entire trip.  Made extremely muddy by the recent rains the trail was tough to negotiate and at times almost frustrating.  A steep incline followed by some wandering finishes at the Chief Mountain Trailhead.

Planning

How to get there

Bears

Both Missoula (164 mi.) and Great Falls (203 mi.) are served by major airlines with car rental services available.  Destinations closer to the park may be served by smaller airlines or connectors.  The drive to park is straight forward although there is some construction on US-93 north of Missoula as of this writing.  Another notable is the utterly delicious Montana Wheat located at the junction of US-93 and Hwy 35.  There is also a grocery store there for last minute items.  Make sure you stop for some Flathead Cherries that are grown in orchards right along your drive and sold at the numerous stands dotting the road.

Permits

Due to the popularity of the park, permits can be hard to come by for Glacier.  Advanced reservation lotteries are in effect but a certain percentage of each campground is held for walk in reservation available to day before you wish to start.  Due to the high possibility of changes, check the Glacier National Park Backcountry Camping page for up to date information.

Outfitters

Many outfitter near glacier are more than happy to help you find that item you forgot at home.  If you need a place to get a new tent, get a new sleeping bag, or get that new Therm-a-Rest Neo Air you can stop by REI in Missoula.

Summary

Waterfalls on Stoney Indian Pass

If Glacier isn’t on your list, it should be.  If it is, it should be higher.  Glacier National park is truly an amazing place to visit, it’s just a shame it’s so popular as it makes it tough to keep to the ‘insiders’.

Quick Info

Location: Glacier National Park, Montana, USA
Permits: Required.  By lottery or walk-in (see above)
Distance: Varies
Difficulty (1-10): Varies
Beta: Glacier N.P. Trails Illustrated.  Available for the whole park and in larger scale for sections of the park. (Buy)

http://www.nps.gov/glac

White Mesa Bike Trails

When it’s mountain biking season and you find yourself near central New Mexico, White Mesa is the place to head.  With a trail to meet everyone’s ability, White Mesa makes the perfect day trip for some great riding.  The area consists of over 15 miles of trail, ranging from beginner to advanced. The White Mesa area is administered by the Bureau of Land Management (BLM) and is well marked and mapped.  Although primarily used for biking, hiking is allowed on the entire trail system and equestrian use is permitted on a portion of the trails.

Primitive camping is allowed in the monument without a fee or permit.

Located over a half mile to the south of Buttermilk Falls, Silver Spray Falls yields views that are just as stunning (if not better), but without the crowds.  However, little seems to be known about these falls, including the from the locals.  A stop at the local deli will get you directions to Silver Spray Farm, but mention  the falls and you may be told nothing of the sort exists.  Many people don’t realize that many of our greatest treasures lie where few people have ventured.  Park at the abandoned Farm and head North on Mountain Road about 500ft.  Once past the house head east and make your way back towards the creek.  Stay next to the creek and enjoy one of the sights in solitude.  You may want to pack a lunch as it will surely take you longer then expected, after all, there are so many pictures to be taken.

Quick Info:

Location: Deleware Water Gap NRA,  NJ, USA
Permits: None
Distance: Varies
Difficulty: Varies from 2-5

http://www.nps.gov/dewa/

Getting There

The tent rocks are located approx. 45 miles southwest of Santa Fe. From I-25 take Exit 259 (Santa Domingo/Cochiti Lake Recreation Area). Follow NM-22 to Kasha-Katuwe Tent Rocks National Monument to a water tower painted like a drum (Tribal Route 92). After paying the five dollar private vehicles entrance fee proceed up the gravel road to the parking area.