Crack climbing is a necessary skill to climb many classic American routes. From desert towers like Castleton Tower in Castle Valley, UT to big walls like Yosemite’s El Capitan and Half Dome — if you want to climb it, you must be able to use crack techniques. Learning the basics of crack climbing will also make other climbing disciplines easier. For example, you can utilize crack techniques on a face climb to rest or stick a move. Jamming in cracks is not intuitive like face climbing. It must be learned and practiced. As you practice these techniques you will not only gain experience but open up a world of new routes.

Let’s begin with a bit of terminology. Climbers usually describe cracks by the appendage used to climb them, such as a hand, fist, or finger crack. Wider cracks are referred to as off-width crack and chimneys. Climbers refer to the width of a crack as it’s “size.” How you climb or jam a crack depends on its size relative to your body.

Hand Jam

When climbing a finger crack, climbers apply a technique called a finger lock. This is done by stacking your fingers tightly into the crack and turning your wrist to pull down. This cams your fingers and locks them into the crack. This can be done in either the pinky up or pinky down position. Most climbers get a more secure lock with their pinky up, however it is dependent on the rock. Experiment with both and find out what you prefer. There is a good chance it will be some combination of both as the situation dictates.

I feel the most secure way to attach yourself to the rock is with a hand jam. In a perfect world the hand jam is done by placing your hand inside a crack with your thumb tucked into your palm. While cupping your palm try to close your hand so that opposing pressure is placed on one side of the crack while the back of your hand and knuckles are pressing on the opposite side. As the crack gets wider you will need to cup your hand more to maintain pressure. Ideally a thumb-up hand jam is going to allow you to have a greater range of motion off of the hand jam than a thumb-down jam can allow. However there are many times you will need use both to successfully reach to top of your climb.

Fist jam

As the crack continues to get wider you will need to start jamming your fists. This is simply a matter of putting your hand in the crack and making a fist. You may find the need to adjust your hand’s orientation horizontally or vertically depending on the width of the crack or size of your hand.

If you find yourself in the gray area between a hand jam and a fist jam there is a trick you can employ. Make a hand jam with your top hand and rotate your hands so the palm of your hand is facing down the crack. For your bottom hand do the opposite. It will essentially be an undercling hand jam. Once a hand jam is no longer wide enough to keep you progressing up a crack you are going to have to start getting a little more creative. And, as your creativity increases, so does your energy output. Stacking is the most common way of working up wider cracks. Do this buy putting your hand over your fist (like paper covers rock in a game of rock-paper-scissors). This along with some chicken-winging, (putting your arm in the crack with your hand on one side and your elbow on the other side, or put your arm into the crack elbow first.) will help you make progress up the crack.

Off-width trick

Practice builds confidence… and technique. As you do more crack climbing you’ll develop a great feel as to when are where are the best times to walk your hands (hand-over-hand progression) and when it is best to shuffle them (hand-to-hand progression and keeping one hand in the top position). The same is true for your feet. For example, if the crack is completely vertical it will probably feel comfortable with walking your hands and feet; conversely, if the crack is leaning to one side it is likely you will need to keep your highest hand with a thumb-down jam and will need to shuffle your hands. Your feet will also be more comfortable being shuffled. You’ll have the best body control if you keep the corresponding foot on top (i.e. right hand and right foot high)

While hand jams may help you feel secure, foot jams will do just as much if not more for your confidence. However, the size of your feet and the size of the crack will do a lot to determine how easy or comfortable you will be. Also, consider your gear. I recommend getting a pair of climbing shoes that have a slightly roomier toe box and allow your toes to lay flat. (This is not the time to be cramming your feet into your 5.10 Anasasis.)

Foot jam

To do a foot jam you simply turn your foot so your arch is pointing up, slide your foot into the crack and straighten your foot, pushing your arch back down. As you do this it will cam your foot into the crack and you’ll be able to stand up. The more weight you place on the foot the more secure your foot will be. The most important thing to remember is that when turning your foot for the jam, you need to use your knee to do the work turning your foot. It will allow for greater range as well as make your foot jam more secure. If you find your feet slipping or feel unsecured in the crack this is likely the fix. As the crack gets smaller you will be able to get less and less of your foot in the crack. When this happens you will need to take smaller steps and you may not feel quite as secure. In more extreme cases you will want to point your toes up the crack as you are turning turning your foot (from your knee) and place as many of your toes in the crack as you can starting with your pinky toe.

Once you get a little experience under your belt you will naturally want to make the progression to leading. If you’ve had experience placing gear this will be easy to pick up. If you’re used to clipping bolts this too will be a learning experience. But here are a few tips to help you get going. Try to get used to how the size of your gear relates to your hands. For example with my rack of Black Diamond Camelots I know that I am the happiest jamming my hands if I’m placing yellow number 2 cams. #.4 gray cams are fingertips, #.5 purples are good fingers, #.75 greens are loose fingers, #1 reds are small hands, #3 blues are fists. And, if I’m placing anything above a #3 I’m likely to be saying things that would make a sailor blush, because I’m stacking and chicken-winging in an off-width. It is also helpful under most circumstances to try not to place above your highest hand. (You will find that your gear will just be in the way.) Finally, like most any time you are on lead it is nice to have a belayer with experience. The rope has a natural tendency to want to snake into the crack and be right in the way of any gear or your hands. A couple of well timed flicks can keep the rope mostly out the way.

It is likely if you have spend much time around trad climbers you have seen them with tape gloves on. While I have and will wear tape gloves I prefer to use them on the end of a trip when my hands have already given as much as they can. I personally like the feel of my hands in the crack. I find that it helps me get a better sense of how secure my jams are. If my hands are slipping I know I need to make an adjustment. While this will probably leave you with some battle scars to show off around the campfire it will also help you learn what works best for you. And, I’ve never seen a climber who had aspirations to be a hand model…

There is no substitute for experience, and watching a seasoned crack climber float up super crack while you are still trying to get off the ground can be a humbling experience, but with a little patience and a lot of practice you too will be jamming your way to the top.

Not all that long ago manufacturers simply labeled their items ‘waterproof ’. That label was awfully ambiguous. What exactly is waterproof? Rain? Lots of rain? Swimming? There is certainly a lot left to the imagination when interpreting the term ‘waterproof ’. The International Electrotechnical Commission’s (IEC) standard IEC 60529 aims to standardize testing of devices so you know exactly what a rated device can withstand.

No doubt you have seen standards such as IPX7, but unless you know the code, that doesn’t help you much. Let’s take a look at the code format and what it means. All devices certified to IEC 60529 start with ‘IP’ to indicate the standard is being applied, and then there are two digits that follow.

The first digit (0-6 or X) designates the device’s protection from solid objects. 0-4 indicate protection from items such as fingers and wires, but a rating of 5 or 6 may occasionally be used for consumer devices. A 5 indicates ‘dust protected’ meaning the device may let dust in but not in sufficient quantity to interfere with the proper operation. A 6 means ‘dust tight’ which indicates that the device is completely sealed to dust. Most consumer devices will generally carry an X, indicating the device was not tested for protection from solid objects.

The second digit following the ‘IP’ describes the protection from water, this is what we’re really concerned about. The digits range from 0-8. Refer to the following table to determine to what degree your new device can withstand exposure to water:

1. Device is protected from vertically dripping water.
2. Device is protected from dripping water when tilted up to 15˚ from it’s normal position.
3. Device is protected from water falling as a spray at any angle up to 60˚ from it’s normal position.
4. Device is protected from water splashing against the enclosure.
5. Device is protected from water sprayed from jets at any angle.
6. Device is protected from water sprayed from high pressure jets at any angle.
7. Device is protected from ingress of water in sufficient quantity to damage device when submerged in up to 1m of water.
8. Device is protected from ingress of water during continuous submersion under conditions specified by manufacturer.

Now you should know exactly what IPX7, a very common rating, means. If you run across a different IP rating just refer to the table above to determine the protection provided.

There are other standards from various organizations such as the Department of Defense, National Electrical Manufactures Association, and Underwriters Laboratory just to name a few. The IP Code seems to be the standard most commonly employed by consumer device manufactures, and now you know how to decode the standard.

IPX Ratings

Be Safe!

1. Know Before You Go

Education is probably the single most important factor determining your safety and survival in the great outdoors. The level of first-aid training you’ll want to have can range from basic first-aid to wilderness survival and will depend on your destination. Although it’s probably not a bad idea to be up-to-date on your basic first-aid and CPR skills all the time (regardless of your travel plans), don’t underestimate the level of training you may need for a trip to a remote location — better to have these skills and not need to use them. And the more you know, the less likely you are to panic if you find yourself in a difficult situation.
In addition to health & safety training, which can be useful when reacting to a difficult situation, proactive training can go a long way toward improving your comfort and safety during adventure travel. Many adventure sports are very technical and require proper technical training. Some activities, such as SCUBA diving, require formal certification before you can participate. Do your research, find the training and/or certification course necessary for your planned activity, and be sure that you’re comfortable and confident in your skill level before you head out on your own.
From small wilderness first-aid and survival courses to full fledged schools that offer college credit (i.e. the National Outdoor Leadership School, http://www.nols.edu) surely you will find something that fits your needs.

2. Plan Your Travel and Travel Your Plan

Always make a plan before heading into the wilderness. Do your homework and find out about the area you’ll be in. This will help you prepare for the conditions you might encounter. Write everything down as part of your full trip plan. Although small departures from the plan are ultimately what define an adventure, proper planning is key to maximizing your safety and enjoyment during adventure travel. Before you depart, leave a copy of your plan with a trusted family member or friend. In the past it was recommended you leave an additional copy of the plan on the dashboard of your car, however this practice has been reported in some instances to contribute to thefts at the trail head. Use your discretion in this matter. These steps ensure that should something happen to you, a rescue can be mounted quickly and the search area can be defined readily. And of course, be sure to check in with the person you left your plan with once you’ve completed your trip.

3. Do Not Exceed Your Limits

Although pushing your limits can make you stronger, flagrantly exceeding them may make you a statistic. Keep this in mind while planning your trip. Know the limits of your training and your equipment and never exceed them. Equally important is to know your own physical limits. The more remote your destination the more you’ll want to feel confident in your physical condition before you go. Again, it’s probably not a bad idea to to have physical at least once a year and be up-to-date on your immunizations — when was the last time you had a tetanus shot? — regardless of your travel plans, but if you’re headed somewhere remote you should probably consult your doctor before you go. Are there immunizations you need to travel to certain parts of the world? Are there medications that you will want to have on hand in certain parts of the world? …or even just in case of emergency? Are you in the proper physical condition for the adventure you have planned? Remember, the goal is to have a good time and return home safe.

4. Double Check Everything… EVERYTHING Before You Go

Equipment should literally be double checked before you set out. Of course you’ll examine everything before you leave the house, but it’s worth remembering that items can get damaged during transit… baggage handling is not usually a ‘white glove’ service. It’s easy to assume that this won’t be an issue, because the equipment used in adventure is fairly sturdy and should stand up to relatively harsh conditions, but there is no sense staking your life, or your comfort, on that assumption. Also, make sure you check (and re-check!) the weather before you set off. The elements are part of the game when it comes to outdoor adventure, but last-minute or unseasonable weather that you’ve not planned for can quickly turn adventure into emergency.

5. Have the Basics and Be Prepared for a Longer Stay

Wherever you are, whatever you are doing, always have a basic survival kit. Your kit may change based on the terrain, weather, training, and experience but always carry one. Many examples of survival kits are available on the internet (http://www.google.com/search?q=basic+survival+kit). Also, never forget that circumstances beyond your control may force your stay to be longer than you have anticipated. When you head out for a day hike you should be prepared to make it through the night, if necessary. You don’t have to be comfortable, just alive. In addition to your survival kit, always carry a map of the area and, most importantly, know how to use it. Some resources for maps are below:
http://www.map-reading.com/
http://www.maptools.com/
Land Navigation Handbook: The Sierra Club Guide to Map, Compass & GPS

6. Insurance (Bonus)

The cost of a search and rescue can be extremely expensive. Although generally not the case in the United States, you may be billed for the cost of any search and rescue efforts you require. Insurance can be one way to hedge that bet. Numerous organizations provide insurance and many credit cards will cover you while flying, renting cars, etc. but a policy specifically for adventure travel is a good idea. Again, a search of the internet will give you many options. http://www.google.com/search?q=adventure+travel+insurance

Garmin RoadTrip

For those familiar with Garmin MapSource Garmin RoadTrip will look suspiciously similar.  The tools are desperately in need of an overhaul and the folder/item manager is horrendous.  That said, it works.  RoadTrip is used to transfer routes, waypoints, and tracks to and from your GPS device.  You can also overlay any maps you may have onto the map.  Although only one map layer may be shown at a time.  While transferring data to the GPS you will have to option to transfer the maps that correspond to your data via MapInstall.  Another downfall is the lack of ability to use UTM coordinates.  Hopefully some of these changes will be made soon.

Garmin MapInstall

MapInstall is a fairly straight forward tool to use.  If used in conjunction with RoadTrip as described above the maps will be transferred automatically.  If you would like to transfer maps manually, MapInstall makes it almost as easy.  Just select the map layer you want to transfer and then select the individual maps.  The interface is rather straight forward and easy to use.

Garmin MapManager

MapManager is simply an application to install maps to RoadTrip and MapInstall.  Open MapInstall, select the map file you want to install and your done.  Then fire up RoadTrip or MapInstall and you’ll have access to the maps.

Garmin also has a handful of other applications for OS X.  WebUpdate to keep your GPS device up to date and a few lesser used applications that some find useful.  As far as the applications previously discussed, I would like to see a few things.  First, as I mentioned earlier I would like to see a user interface cleanup.  Second, all of these tools are used to transfer data to and from a GPS device.  There is no reason these should be seperate applications.  One complete application like MapSource would be a welcome change.  Third, I would like to see some sort of “sync” capability.  Right now, you can either send or receive from the GPS with no regard for what changes have been made.  Syncing would allow you to make simple changes and push them back to the GPS without having to worry about what was on the device initially.  Cell phones and PDA’s have been doing this for many years, yet it still isn’t possible with GPS devices.  All in all the applications work and if you need to use your Garmin GPS with OS X, these are the best bet, keeping in mind it’s not perfect.