Scarpa Phantom 6000 -- double mountaineering boot

Double Boots

Double are similar to ski boots in design in that they have a mold-able liner with a stiff plastic or waterproof or stiff waterproof shell. These boots are most commonly used for technical mountaineering in extreme environments, like K2 or Everest but may be employed by weekend warriors who struggle with cold feet during multi-day trips. Consult an expert if you feel you need these boots and aren’t sure what to get.

Mountaineering Boots

These boots are designed for mountaineering in slightly less demanding conditions than double boots. They can range from the equivalent of heavyweight hiking boots to heavier boots designed for vertical ice and more serious mountaineering. Whereas heavier, stiffer boots perform better on snow and ice, they are less useful on the trail, and (perhaps not surprisingly) boots that perform better on the trail are less suited to the rigors of steep snow and ice. So, your intended use will determine the type of boot you need. Once you have decided on the type boot that fits your adventure needs, you should head to your local outfitter with the socks you plan on wearing. Try on several different pairs to ensure you find the fit that is best for you. While some manufactures still use leather which offers a faster break-in (but more maintenance to keep waterproof and conditioned), many are moving to high performance synthetic materials for most boots.

La Sportiva Lhotse -- heavyweight mountaineering boot

Heavyweight Mountaineering Boots

Heavyweight mountaineering boots are designed for spending lots of time on vertical ice (WI4 and above), steep snow and ice, and in truly cold conditions. A full shank will make these boots extremely stiff but allow you to use automatic or step-in crampons with ease. The shank and the high cuff will make climbing vertical ice much easier. Generally these boots are extremely waterproof and well insulated, which of course adds up to a very stiff, heavy boot. Although this is ideal in a boot if you plan on serious mountaineering, the weight and difficult break-in period keep make it a less-than-practical boot for peak baggers and weekend backpackers.

Scarpa Charmoz -- medium weight mountaineering boot

Mid-weight Mountaineering Boots

Mid-weight mountaineering boots are designed for hiking in cold temperatures and backpacking. Some models may have a half shank to allow use of automatic or step-in crampons. These boots can be used for less than vertical ice climbing (up to WI3). Mid-weight mountaineering boots are also ideal for moderately cold weather mountaineering while still offering the adequate flexibility and reduced weight to be comfortable on the trail. This is probably the ideal boot for budding mountaineers.

Asolo Lothar -- lightweight mountaineering boot

Lightweight Mountaineering Boots

Lightweight mountaineering boots are ideal for winter hiking, backpacking with large loads, cold peak bagging and approaches. Although they can be used with snowshoes and are generally stiff enough to accept strap-on crampons for limited snow and ice travel they excel on the trail, they often provide less stability over snow, ice, and very rough terrain and therefore should be reserved primarily for trail use when you don’t expect much, if any, snow or ice.

Many boot models in this category are made of leather and use other (primarily synthetic) fabrics for the side panels. The result is a reduction in weight and price but typically at the expense of stability, water resistance and durability. Although some manufactures offer Gore-Tex-treated models, many will require using a third-party waterproofing treatment, such as Nikwax.

Break-in and Boot Maintenance

The break-in can be a bit of a love, hate process. Lightweight boots have a relatively quick break-in period, whereas mid-weight boots may require on the order of 100 miles of wear for an adequate break-in. Heavy mountaineering boots may require as much as 200 miles of wear for that comfort fit, during which time it’s as much you breaking in the boots as the boots breaking you in (see sidebar for blister treatments). Experimenting with different sock combinations can ease some of the pain, but for the most part it is just a process you need to endure. That said, make sure you tough it out before heading into the backcountry. Boots that have not been broken in have no place on the mountain, trail or ice. It’s worth spending a lot of time getting to know your boots. Even prior to making your purchase, do more than just take a quick ‘up and back’ in the store. Ask the clerk if you can spend some more time walking around the store in the boots you’re considering, do the rest of your shopping in them (I mean, it’s not like we ever go to an outdoor equipment store for just one thing, right?). If you have any discomfort after an hour it spells disaster for multi-day trips. Or, at the very least, it suggests that a different brand of boot is going to be better long term. If you need to help speed up the break-in time, look into custom foot beds, but don’t skip the pre-purchase comfort test.

With proper care, most well-made mountaineering boots will last a lifetime. After every trip inspect, clean and dry your boots. First, clean off large debris and dirt with a stiff brush. Next use a gentle soap such as saddle soap or Nikwax Cleaning Gel according to manufacturer’s instructions. Allow to dry away from any heat source as heat can damage the leather and liners. If additional waterproofing is required follow the manufacturer’s instructions.

Black Diamond Cyborg crampon with automatic bindings

Compatibility With Crampons

Boots may have a welted heel, welted toe, or both. A boot with a heel welt can accept hybrid crampons while a boot featuring both welted heel and toe will accept automatic (or step-in) crampons. Boots lacking welts will require strap-on crampon bindings.

Crampon Bindings

There are three main types of crampon bindings. The type of crampon binding you decide on will be decided by your boot type. (see left)

Step-in Crampons — require a stiff boot with welts on the toe and heel. On the heel a lever keeps the crampon tight to the boot while a front bail fits into the toe welt. These are generally used on mid and heavyweight boots with a half or full shank.

Hybrid crampons — require a heel welt but do not need one on the toe. Instead a toe strap holds them in place on the toe.

Strap-on crampons — can be affixed to almost any boot. They are simply help to the boot using nylon webbing.

C.A.M.P. C12 crampon with hybrid bindings

Crampons

Crampons are boot attachments that feature metal spikes to provide traction on snow and ice. They come in different configurations, are made of different materials, and have different methods of attaching to boots. It’s a good idea to take you boots with you when purchasing crampons. While most stores will be able to get you a crampon you can take home and affix to your boots there is peace of mind that comes with leaving the store knowing you are ready to start your adventure. Again, the type and binding of crampon you settle on will be decided by their intended use.

Crampon Types

Rigid crampons — are designed for climbing vertical ice (WI4 and above). The crampons are constructed to provide no flex and therefore may take some time to get used to and are not suitable for trail use, but they provide the most stable platform when front-pointing vertical ice.

Semi-rigid — crampons provide some flex — essential for walking on icy trails or glaciers — yet they will also provide a stiff platform for climbing less-than-vertical steep ice (up to WI3). This balance of walking and climbing performance makes this style of crampon the best choice for general mountaineering (and also the most common type of crampon available).

Flexible crampons — are generally attached to the boot with straps and are the most comfortable crampon for walking on icy trails because they allow the user to maintain a relatively normal stride. They do not, however, provide any stability for climbing and thus are best suited for occasional use on low grade terrain.

Grivel G10 crampons with strap-on bindings

Materials

Crampons are generally made from a high-strength steel alloy and will last many seasons with proper care. There are also crampons made from lightweight aluminum that are best employed for occasional use — a multi-day trip where crampons will be needed near a summit but you don’t want to be carrying steel in your backpack for the remainder of the trek.

Points

Good crampons will generally have between 10 and 14 points. 10 point crampons are generally reserved for occasional use, whereas general mountaineering crampons will normally have 12 points, and crampons designed for climbing vertical ice will typically have 14. The point orientation will also have an effect on the utility of the crampon for specific applications. Mountaineering crampons will normally have two horizontal front points and the second row will be more vertical allowing good penetration in ice while walking. Crampons designed for ice climbing may have one or two front points orientated vertically for strength with the second row angled toward the toe to make front-pointing easier.

Crampon Maintenance

Crampons will last many years with proper care. Always inspect your crampons before and after each trip and repair or replace damaged linking bars, straps or bails. Sharpen points with a hand file as they dull. Carrying a hand file with you on long trips may be necessary.

Stanley

In Maine, Stanley developed quite a fondness for his Chuck-It bumper (pictured at left). Bumpers are specifically designed for to train retrievers to retrieve items, such as ducks, from the water. The bumper floats high in the water and the bright red and green colors make it easy to find, even in the choppy Maine waters. Easy to throw and the pup loves it even on land.
$12.50
www.chuckit.com

Nikon Coolpix AW100

Nikon AW100

Nikon certainly wasn’t first to market with a ruggedized camera, in fact they were pretty close to last. That said, the wait was worth it. With built-in GPS (a glaring oversight on many cameras in this class) you can go back and find exactly where a photo was taken. No more guessing. Using software that will map photos such as Apple’s iPhoto, Google Earth, or the built in maps at the bar can be a fun way to share memories of your trip. The AW100 features full 1080p video, 16MP photos and one handed operation. The AW100 is designed to take a decent amount of abuse too. Waterproof up to 33ft. shockproof up to 5ft. and freezeproof make the Nikon AW100 one star performer in the outdoor camera arena. Probably not quite worth upgrading if you already have a camera in this class, but if not, this is the one.
$379.95
http://www.nikonusa.com

Hydro Flask Growler

Hydro Flask Growler

Earlier this year Hydro Flask released their growler and frankly, it’s glorious. The double wall insulation keeps beer fresh and cold until you’re ready to drink it, up to 24 hours. Because it’s made of 18/8 stainless steel it will stand up the abuse that riding in your pack all day will dish out. It also won’t break when if falls on the rock or gets banged around in the back of your car on the way home. You can also store anything you would like to keep warm in the growler (soup, chili, tea) but we prefer to the use it for it’s intended purpose. Hydro Flask makes double-wall insulated flasks in sizes ranging from 12oz. all the way up to the 64oz. growler including a food flask of which we are big fans of the entire line.
$49.99
www.hydroflask.com

Mountain Hardwear Medusa

Mountain Hardwear Medusa Gloves

Cold hands? No problem. Even while ice climbing all day in some of the most demanding conditions. Mountain Hardwear bonded their propriety OutDry waterproof membrane directly to the Medusa’s outer shell making the gloves some of the most waterproof gloves we have ever tried. The Medusa’s also include a removable windproof softshell liner not only makes the glove nice and warm but protect your hands when you need the added dexterity of not wearing the shells. The nose wipe on the thumb is another great feature. While the wipe isn’t the softest material on earth it does stay free of snow and ice. If you are looking for a pair of gloves that spends a decent amount of time outside during the winter you could do much, much worse than the Mountain Hardwear Medusa.
$150
http://www.mountainhardwear.com

Adventure Medical Kits

Travel Medical Kits by Adventure Medical Kits

Adventure Medical Kits makes first aid kits for a range of outdoor and travel medical kits wherever your choice of activity of destination. Adventure Medical Kits packs all of their kits in very organized kits that are very convenient to use and carry. Kits designed for use on the water include watertight cases, travel kits are in portfolio type cases that make for easy packing, and an women’s specific travel kit is available. If you have a loved one that spends much time outdoors or on the road get them piece of mind that comes with knowing they have medical supplies should they need them.
$10-70 (travel series)
http://www.adventuremedicalkits.com

Apple iPad

iPad 2

The last thing you need is someone else telling you how great the iPad is. Sorry, but it’s true. For those that travel on a regular basis lugging a laptop around can be a real pain. With countless travel apps for checking into flights, reserving hotels, finding things to do in a new city, and countless other tasks once you get hooked on your iPad for travel it’s tough to do without it. But it’s the fact that it can all but replace lugging around your laptop where the iPad shines. E-mail, web browsing, apps for blogging, text processing, presentations, and almost any other items you need to get done on the road. Presentations can even be given with available adapters. While doing a lot of content creation on the go can be a little awkward on the touchscreen a bluetooth keyboard is available that will ease that pain. Many people are big fans of the other e-readers on the market such as the Kindle and Nook as well. And while we can certainly get behind that we love the versatility the iPad offers. And while there are other tablets on the market that promise similar functionality none have caught on to this point. So this year it’s the iPad 2 that gets the nod and even with the 3G making travel more convenient the wi-fi version should be sufficient for most people.
$499-$829
www.apple.com

Donations to Charity

Charities in this country provide many services that are near and dear to many of our hearts. If you have someone in your life who travels or loves the outdoors there charities no doubt protect some of the land they use. With the prolonged economic problems currently facing us many charities have seen a large drop in donations and this can be your chance to help them. If you really don’t know what to get that special person maybe a donation in their name could be the best gift. Some examples for donations include the Access Fund, Doctors Without Borders, or even the Red Cross. Many local charities are great candidates for your gifts as well. In addition you get a tax deduction for this gift, it is the end of the year after all and it’s kind of like giving and getting at the same time.

On Consuming

With the holidays upon us it is almost too easy to get caught up in the giving spirit. While it is nice to receive things and certainly a joy to give please consider the impact before you buy something you don’t need. Monday, Nov 28 also known as Cyber Monday turned out to be a record in sales…ever. Patagonia on the other hand ran a full-page ad in the New York Times with the title ‘Don’t Buy This Jacket’ (ad below) reminding us that everything we buy damages the earth. No preaching, just thought the ad was worth sharing. Enjoy.

Patagonia 'Don't Buy This Jacket' Ad

Hydro Flask 64 oz. growler

Hydro Flask 64 oz. Wide-mouth Vacuum Insulated Stainless Steel Growler

Call it four pints or just shy of a six-pack, or you can just call it awesome. They call it the Hydro Flask 64 oz. wide-mouth vacuum insulated stainless steel growler. I mean, sure you could put something else in it (water, chili, what have you…), but I purchased mine for beer transport. My local brewery offers growlers and six-packs to go. For the sake of convenience I prefer a large vessel (no bottle deposit or return, and I do all my own recycling — if you know what I mean). Previously I have used a glass growler for these purposes, but this poses its own challenges: how do you keep it from getting broken? In the past, I’ve used bungee cords to hold my growler down, but on one occasion somehow it freed itself and broke in the back of my  Jeep… $11 wasted and the great the smell of barley and hops is replaced by the rotten egg smell in few days. (Then I had to break out the vinegar and clean like a madman.) Also, keeping a glass growler cold can be an uphill battle.  All in all, I’m left wishing I had something better.  With a Hydro Flask Growler, now I do.

Hydro Flask makes great vacuum stainless steel insulated bottles that have kept my coffee hot for up to 12 hours and my water cold for up to 24 hours. They come in sizes ranging from 12 to 40 oz. Yet even the 40 oz. size was not enough capacity to satisfy for my passion for good brew. Enter the Hydro Flask growler. The beer is fresh and cold when you get home or four hours later or even the next day.  This past weekend I filled up my growler with some Mackinac Island Fudge Stout from the Corner Brewery in Ypsilanti, MI. This beer is pretty rich, so I could only drink a couple pints.  The next day I finished off my growler and was amazed that the beer was cold and fresh just like the night before. Plus, the double insulation prevents sweating, so no coaster required! The lid is not insulated but Hydro Flask has informed me that they will be offering an insulated lid soon. Cheers to that.

$49.99
www.hydroflask.com
Christopher Sorel — Saline, MI

Platypus PlatyPreserve wine preserver

Platypus PlatyPreserve Wine Preserver

The PlatyPreserve wine preserver from Platypus is a pretty sweet way to keep a bottle of wine in decent shape for your outdoor adventures. However, the only difference between this and a Platypus SoftBottle seems to be that the PlatyPreserve is about the right size (800ml) to hold a standard bottle of wine (750ml), and costs two dollars more. Although if you do decide to go the route of the SoftBottle ensure you get the screw-on closure cap as you wouldn’t want a bottle of red and a bottle of white to spill all over your gear. We did test the PlatyPreserve at picnics, day hikes, and over-nighters. I wouldn’t recommend putting a 1945 Chateau Mouton-Rothschild in one of these it held up rather well. And if you need to store wine longer than a couple days, you, my friend, need to drink more wine.

$9.95
www.cascadedesigns.com
Erick Pound

Patagonia Better Sweater

The Patagonia Better Sweater is the sweater that promises to look like wool with the ease of care of polyester. It delivers. As one tester bragged, “I wore the Better Sweater about every third day during a two-week trip to Japan and at the end it wore like it was fresh…which it wasn’t”. The Better Sweater features a fleece interior that is extremely comfortable next to the skin and can be worn as a sweater around the city, hikes on the edge of town or under a shell when the mercury drops. The Napoleon pocket (on the men’s 1/4 zip, vest, and hoody) proved surprisingly useful, holding phones, cameras, and iPods. On occasion I did miss hand warmer pockets (the 1/4 zip is the only version they are missing from) but do think the lack of them gave the sweater a more pleasing look, especially around town. The Patagonia Better Sweater is available in men’s and women’s 1/4 zip, full zip jacket, and full-zip hoody, and vest and kid’s hoody. The only downfall may be the price but for the versatility of the Better Sweater it may be well worth it, it may be the last sweater you buy.

$85-$149
www.patagonia.com

Osprey Flap Jack Courier

I recently decided to switch from a commuter backpack to a messenger bag for my urban shleps. Backpacks are a pain on the subway, are tough to get things in and out of and frankly, messenger bags jut look better when heading from work to a nice dinner. There are quite a few companies making messenger bags and they run the spectrum from true bike messenger style to all leather luxury bags costing thousands. I settled on the Osprey Flap Jack in part because of the reputation Osprey has built for themselves. I love my Osprey Talon 44 so when I saw the Osprey Flap Jack I jumped on it. And at $79 it’s one of the cheaper options on the market.

The Osprey Flap Jack is a laptop messenger bag that holds up to a 17″ laptop in a padded sleeve and sports 1200 cubic inches of space. Other features include interchangeable nylon webbing for a customized look, a patch for attaching a light, a drawcord to protect the contents from the elements, and an earbud cable router on the bag.

The Osprey Flap Jack is a very nice size for the day-to-day commuter — I even find room in it to stash a jacket — but don’t expect to go away for more than a night with what you can pack. I would not have been upset to see a bit more space. The bag wears great and is easily adjustable while the triangle support is only needed when hauling around heavier items for a period of time. The laptop sleeve fits a 15″ laptop perfectly while those with 17″ laptops, particularly those at the larger end of the spectrum, may have some trouble. The laptop sleeve is padded but I miss the sleeve on the Patagonia Crosstown that kept the laptop off the ground when you set the bag down. Even with the padding in the Osprey laptop envelope, I still worry about setting my bag down too hard and doing damage to my laptop. I did find the internal pocket lacking organization and would love to have seen some more pockets inside the main compartment. The bag is not waterproof although it is water resistant enough to keep your things dry in a freak thunderstorm and a drawcord keeps the bag cinched tight around your items to keep the rain out. The system works well enough, though I would have preferred the flap actually be more like a lid that extends a few inches down the side of the bag thus completely enclosing the contents.

The Osprey Flap Jack has proven to be an indispensable companion in my travels over the last few months. It’s been to Colorado, London, and all over Manhattan. The chances that it will be replaced anytime soon are slim to nil. Osprey also has a couple other bags in the ‘Flap Series’. For men they offer the Flap Jack Pack in addition to the Flap Jack Courier. Women are offered the Flap Jill Pack (in large and regular), Flap Jill Courier, and the Flap Jill Mini.

$79
www.ospreypacks.com

Mountain Hardwear Medusa

Climbing Silver Plume, CO

We recently were able to test the Mountain Hardwear Medusa Gloves with Mountain Hardwear’s proprietary waterproof membrane, OutDry. According to Mountain Hardwear OutDry is not just a membrane but the process of bonding the membrane to the inside of the shell material. With most membrane waterproofing techniques the membrane sits between the shell and the insulation and allows water, wind, and ultimately the cold to permeate the shell and sit on top of the membrane. OutDry eliminates these problems. But we have all seen similar claims and potential benefits in marketing materials before; put up or shut up, I say. So, naturally, I put them to the test. Two weeks of ice climbing and skiing in Colorado turned me into a believer. We encountered conditions that ranged from extremely wet ice that turned to blizzard conditions at the top of the route and the gloves not only kept my hands dry but warm even going into the last pitch. I had taken a second set of mittens along as I knew it would be a challenge only to have them shared by two of my group after their gloves froze from the water on the first pitch. The Mountain Hardwear Medusas also performed well on the slopes, and the liners were a great weight for skinning while it’s dry. The gloves were tough to remove if I was trying to keep the liners on my hands. The Velcro that holds the liner in place inside the gloves seems to be too strong and the gloves may be better of without it entirely. One feature of note in addition to the OutDry waterproofing is the snot wipe on the thumb. Although the wipe isn’t the softest material I have ever put on my nose the wipe on the Mountain Hardwear Medusas stayed mostly ice free the entire day, a rarity in snot wipes.

$140
www.mountainhardwear.com

Google Translate for iPhone and iPod Touch

Google has had a translate feature on the web for some time but recently Google released a native iPhone/iPod Touch app. The app will allow typed translation of 57 languages of which 15 can be spoken directly into the phone and spoken results are available in 23. The app will also allow displaying the results in full screen so they can be shown to a foreign speaker. The app works very well but the glaring problem is the requirement to have an internet connection. Either wi-fi or cellular data (iPhone only) will work but if you are away from either of those you may be out of luck. One nice feature is the ability to view translation history, even when no internet connection exists. The app just provides an interface to the same data the web based translate uses ensuring that the most current data is used. An Android version of the app is also available.
free
www.google.com

 

Honey Stinger Organic Waffles

Last October, Honey Stinger released their new Organic Stinger Waffle. Recommended by Lance Armstrong, a big fan of the stroopwafels sold throughout Europe, and using organic ingredients the Honey Stinger Waffles are a pleasure to eat. The Honey Stinger Waffles have a nice crispy texture with a chewy, honey-y finish. Each waffle packs 160 calories and are by easily one of the best tasting energy sources currently on the market. They are also good as an snack anytime and are pretty good with a cup of coffee or tea. In March Honey Stinger is set to release a vanilla version of the Stinger Waffle.
$1.39/ea $22.24/box of 16
www.honeystinger.com

'Crack/trad shoes' - Scarpa Techno

Maybe it’s your first pair of rock shoes.  Maybe you are looking for a second pair of shoes to increase your performance.  Or maybe your current shoes kill your feet or you want some specialty shoes for a specific type of climbing.  There are many different reasons for purchasing a new pair of rock shoes but knowing what you need is the only sure way to get exactly what you want.

Types of Shoes

There are a few main types of climbing shoes and they are all designed for a specific purpose.  There are shoes for comfort while climbing all day, shoes for cracks, shoes for edging, and shoes for extremely steep and overhanging rock.  Keeping in mind many shoes overlap categories, let’s take a look at each. When trying on climbing shoes attempt to place you foot in positions you will encounter while climbing.  Most reputable gear shop will at least have a couple of climbing holds on a wall you can step onto.  Worst case, while wearing both shoes ensure you are able to rock forward onto your toes, if you experience discomfort try another size or a different shoe.

Comfort Shoes

'Comfort shoes' - 5.10 Spire

Although not a very technical term, it does sum up the purpose of these shoes.  These shoes are designed to be able to be worn all day with minimal discomfort and are generally low-cut and mid-stiffness.  They do, however sacrifice edging ability and sensitivity.  Most climbers start with shoes in the comfort category for three reasons. First, they’re inexpensive.  This is generally a concern for someone just starting a new sport, especially one that can be as expensive as climbing.  Second, although there is no such thing as a real “all-around” shoe, the comfort shoe is as close as it gets.  And third, frankly it doesn’t matter.  This is just the shoe you use until you want to increase your performance or determine you need a shoe for a specific purpose.

Examples:

• 5.10 Spire
• La Sportiva Cliff
• Scarpa Freestyle
• Evolv Royale

Sport Shoes

'Sport shoes' - La Sportiva Miura

Sport shoes are not as comfortable, but many climbers find the trade off worth the added performance.  Sport shoes have chiseled toes and a relatively larger arch than shoes designed strictly for comfort.  Within this category shoes range from relatively stiff to extremely sensitive.  Stiff shoes are designed to hold small edges all day long and are very beneficial to climbers lacking strong foot muscles.  The drawback is the loss of sensitivity.  Over time you adapt to this and have no problem telling what is underfoot, but for climbers switching from a sensitive shoe to a stiff shoe there can be a learning curve. Extremely sensitive shoes provide tremendous smearing ability and feel.  The downside to this type of shoe is it can become fatiguing on long face climbs with a lot of thin edging especially for people lacking strong foot muscles. Sizing these shoes can be more difficult as the toe boxes of these shoes vary greatly.  It is important to try on different shoes and make sure you have something that fits your foot well.  This is not the time to order the new “greatest ever” shoe on the internet without trying them on.

Examples:

• 5.10 Anasazi
• 5.10 Galileo
• Evolv Pontas
• Evolv Defy
• Scarpa Mago
• Scarpa Booster
• La Sportiva Miura
• La Sportiva Katana

Crack/Trad Shoes

'Crack/trad shoe' - La Sportiva TC Pro

Crack/trad climbing shoes are used for just that, crack and traditional climbing.  They differ from sport shoes in that they are designed to be more comfortable for use during long trad routes as opposed to shorter (generally one pitch) sport routes.  These shoes are designed to give the climber a toe box designed for foot jams and extra rubber and material around the front of the shoe to help it hold up to the demands of crack climbing.  Some shoes feature a higher cut to protect your ankles while climbing cracks.  These shoes are also designed with some comfort in mind as they tend to be used on longer routes and most climbers will typically not size these shoes quite as small.  It is very important to make sure your toes lay nearly, if not completely, flat in the shoe.  Foot jams are not a pleasant experience for many climbers and having the right shoe sized properly can make the difference between looking at a summit to looking down from a summit.

Examples:

• La Sportiva TC Pro
• La Sportiva Tradmaster
• Scarpa Techno
• Evolv Quest-AF
• 5.10 Grandstone
• 5.10 Copperhead

Bouldering/Steep Face Shoes

'Bouldering/steep face shoes' - La Sportiva Testarosa

There are also shoes made specifically for bouldering or steep and overhanging rock.  They are characterized by a significant down turned toe designed to help the climber get more of the shoes rubber on the rock and put more power into the big toe.  These shoes can be very uncomfortable if not sized correctly but beneficial for those exclusively climbing very steep rock. Again, it is very important to get a shoe that fits your foot.  You are are going to get very tired and discouraged if you have to remove you shoes after every attempt at a boulder problem.

Examples:

• 5.10 Blackwing
• 5.10 Dragon
• 5.10 Jet7
• La Sportiva Testarossa
• La Sportiva Solution
• Scarpa Stix
• Evolv Talon
• Evolv Predator

Sizing

The most important thing to remember when looking for climbing shoes is the fit of the shoe.  No matter what promises they make to improve you climbing ability, it won’t work if it doesn’t fit.  Make sure the heel doesn’t slip; and obviously you won’t get much rock climbed if you dread even putting them on.  As many manufactures have different cuts, the best place to buy your new shoes is a local retailer.  Yes, they are more expensive than buying online, but they will make sure you have the right size.

Men’s vs. Women’s

Many shoes are made with a men’s and women’s version.  Men that have a low volume may find it beneficial to buy a women’s shoe while women with high volume feet may find a men’s shoe provides a better fit.  Again, your best bet is to try them on.

Linings

One last thing to consider is the shoe made of.  You can expect an unlined leather shoe to stretch up to a full size.  Lined leather shoes may stretch half a size.  While lined synthetic shoes are said not to stretch, however some models will stretch a tiny bit.

Slippers vs. Velcro vs. Lace-up

Climbing shoes are offered in a few different styles.  Slippers just slip on and off making getting in and out of them easy but lacks any way to fine tune the fit.  Velcro shoes generally have two Velcro straps that still makes it simple to put on and take off but allows some fine tuning of the fit.  Finally, lace up shoes allow you to fine tune the fit the most but you sacrifice the ease of getting them on and off.  Which you decide on will be strictly a matter of personal preference.

Now That You’ve Found Your Shoes…

So after an extensive search you have found a pair of shoes that fit you feet well. Since you don’t want to have to replace them right away it is important to take care of them. Do this by keeping them clean, it’s obvious you don’t want to wear them all day at the base of rock walking though fine dirt and mud as that will force dirt and small rocks into the soles. This is going to reduce the friction the soles of your shoes are able to create. As a rule of thumb if you are trying to keep your rope out of it you should try to keep your shoes out of it. If you do need to clean your shoes you can do so by hand. To clean the soles take a clean cloth and do a little scrubbing.  You can also take sand paper and lightly go over the soles, do this in a back to front manner and avoid side to side motion. It should be obvious that if you do this after every climb you will shorten the life of your shoes significantly.

Do what you can to avoid direct sunlight and heat.  While climbing on the sunshine slab may make this difficult, put your shoes in the shade when you are not climbing.  The base of your shoes are held in place by glue that is heated during the application of the sole.  Allowing your shoes to get hot will reduce the bond between your shoes and their soles potentially allowing them to delaminate, shortening their lifespan and reducing their performance.

If you spend much time at the local crag you have probably seen many climbers with big fancy backpacks with plenty  of room who have their shoes clipped onto the outside of their packs.  This is so those shoes can have the chance to dry out and get a little fresh air in an attempt to keep them from stinking.  Some climbers keep a dryer sheet in their shoes to help keep them dry and smelling fresh-ish.  One last note, if you are going to have your shoes re-soled (after all they are already broken in) do the re-soler a favor and either wash them by hand and give them a chance to dry, or stick them in the freezer for a couple of days.  The cold will kill the bacteria that makes them smell.  While this will only last until the next time you wear them but your re-soler will greatly appreciate it.

Recommended shoes manufacturer websites:

• La Sportiva (http://www.sportiva.com/)
• 5.10 (http://www.fiveten.com/)
• Scarpa (http://www.scarpa.com/)
• Evolv (http://www.evolvesports.com/)

Breaking Trail on Mt. Lincoln, CO

MSR’s new backcountry snowshoe, the Lightning Ascent, boasts many useful features for the back-country traveler including modular flotation tails, PosiLock AT bindings, cross members for rigidity, pivot crampons and heel lifters. We put the MSR Lightning Ascents through it’s paces in Colorado and Vermont and tested it’s versatility using subjects that differ in weight by 100 pounds on the 25″ model. One tester, new to snowshoeing wasn’t entirely sure what all the features meant but at the end of her ascent of Mt. Mansfield she was very happy to have the aggressive serration along the entirety of the snowshoes. This proved key in the sub-zero 50+ MPH ‘slog’. Both testers raved about the heel lifter on both Mt. Mansfield and on the backside of Mt. Lincoln, CO, after our other  heavier tester was asked to break trail in a couple feet of fresh, deep powder on a cold approach for some ice climbing. Our budding snowshoer found the device after her hiking partner pointed out the feature and was immediately a fan of heel lifters in general. A hiking pole is sufficient to raise the bar when in the raised position out testers found climbing steep slopes was a breeze.

Slogging up Mt. Mansfield

Our heavier tester, breaking trail in Colorado made good use of the flotation tails. They are easy to install with just a couple of hooks and a rubber strap they can easily be attached with gloves and provide extra flotation in deep, soft snow or for heavier hikers. Weighing 3lbs. 14oz. (25″ model) the MSR Lightning Ascents can handle a load between 120 and 220lbs and up to 280lbs with the flotation tales installed. Of course those number vary by user experience and snow conditions. Of course, as with most items from MSR, the Lightning Ascents are made in Seattle, WA.

Both testers agreed the bindings were tough to get in and out of but acknowledged the binging is more secure than other snowshoes and proper sizing in a nice warm place is key.

$269.95-$299.95
www.msrcorp.com