Our first adventure was trekking to the Salto de Limon (Limon Waterfall). This was our view!

The waterfall! The cool pool of water was welcome on a hot day!

We had a traditional Dominican meal when we got back from the falls.

The next day we visit Los Haitises National Park by boat and rode through the mangroves.

This is one of the caves we explored.

Day 3 was our favorite activity - waterfall cascading! We climbed up to the 12 waterfall and then and then slid and...

...jumped our way back down!

The next morning we got up bright & early to get on the teleferico (cable car) to the top!

At the top of Mount St. Isabel

The last day was my first snorkeling experience!

More snorkeling. So glad I had a waterproof camera!

Look for a full length feature on why the North Coast is the new destination for adventure travelers in the debut issue of Adventure Insider mag in a few weeks! Make sure you subscribe to Adventure Insider Magazine

2009 Patagonia Primo Pants

About the Patagonia Primo Jacket and Pants

The Primo jacket and pants are the premier shell from Patagonia. That distinction does, however, come at a price. The jacket rings in at $450 and the pants are a slightly less expensive $350. But, should you decide to put up $800 for the pair you likely won’t be disappointed. Both jacket and pants are

Park City Powder Fall

constructed of stretch-woven nylon with Patagonia’s proprietary 3-layer H2No waterproof/breathable barrier. The 3-layer barrier provides the utmost in durability and the most waterproof, windproof barrier that Patagonia offers. The Primo jacket also features removable hood and powder skirt, which is appreciated on a fair weather outing. A brushed tricot lining around the neck keeps the jacket from chafing. The high neck keeps the wind and precipitation off your back even when you don’t have the hood up or even attached. The chest pocket hides a padded electronics pocket that also provides holes for your headphone cables. The jacket also provides three hooks that attach to any Patagonia shell pants to keep you protected in every condition. The pants are constructed of the same material and feature a gusseted crotch and articulated knees provide a full of range of motion.The high cut back ensures you stay dry and the hook and loop side, size adjustments make achieving the perfect fit a cinch. All external zippers on both the jacket (main zipper, chest pocket, shoulder pocket, pit zips) and pants (crotch zipper, hand warmers, cargo pocket, and thigh ventilation) are waterproof. Check out our first impression of the Patagonia Primo jacket and pants.

Performance of the Patagonia Primo jacket and pants

The Primo system proved to work as designed. From frigid days on the slopes in Park City, UT to rainy days in Seattle the Primo kept the wind, rain, and snow off me while breathing enough to keep me dry inside. I wore the Primo jacket over my Patagonia R2 jacket and the pants over my Smartwool tights, and the combination provided more than acceptable insulation. The full-length gaiters kept the snow out of my boots for several days of skiing, even in deep powder and including more than a few falls. The jacket weighs in at 21.75 oz. and the pants come it at 16.75 oz., about average for these type durable shells. The padded inner pocket on the chest kept my iPhone safe, and although I didn’t use the routing holes for headphones, the feature is appreciated. My one complaint: although the Primo jacket does have a built in lift ticket holder, it’s really nothing more than a plastic hoop you attach your zip-tie to. First off, the holder sits too high forcing you to dig for your lift ticket when you need it. Second I would like to see a buckle attached to a small, thin piece of webbing that will simply go through the hole in the lift ticket. Picky, I know, but when I spend $450 on a jacket, I guess I feel like I should be allowed to be picky.

Final Conclusions

The Primo jacket and pants are for serious people doing serious outdoor adventures but if you are looking for a shell that will protect you for years to come, you could do worse than the Patagonia Primo jacket and pants.

Why It’s Hot:

• Bombproof
• Durability
• Pants size adjustment

Why It’s Not:

• Lift ticket holder

New York City

Your first visit to New York City can be an intimidating experience.  NYC is big, fast, and unlike any other city in the world — a true urban adventure. Just like any other adventure, the key to making your trip an enjoyable and exciting experience is to arm yourself with some knowledge before you go, make a plan, and leave a little room in that plan for the unexpected. This beginners guide should help get you pointed in the right direction.

Geography and Layout

I often describe NYC as a country of it’s own, complete with states (the boroughs), and towns (neighborhoods).  New York City is composed of five boroughs.  Brooklyn, The Bronx, Manhattan, Queens, and Staten Island. Although each borough has great things to see, you’re likely to spend most of your time in Manhattan (referred to as “the city” by locals).  Manhattan is broken into many neighborhoods: the Upper West Side, Lower East Side, Murray Hill, and the Financial District to name a few.  Don’t be overly concerned about those, just know they exist.

The streets in Manhattan are laid out in a grid pattern.  Avenues run North-South and streets run East-West (see map below) with higher numbered streets to the North (uptown) and higher numbered avenues to the West.  This can make it quite simple to figure out which way to walk once you understand the pattern.  That said, below 14th St, things start to get to get a bit more confusing, and the whole of lower Manhattan is a jumble of named streets and tiny blocks. A map is key, and you may find yourself walking a block or two out of the way to figure out exactly where you are.

There are also several NYC map applications for the iPhone that you may find helpful. Isn’t technology wonderful?

Getting There

Although it is possible drive into New York, it’s not recommended.  Bridge and tunnel tolls are deliberately high to discourage people from adding to the traffic congestion in Manhattan, street  parking is extremely limited, and parking garages can be quite expensive. Navigating the city via the extensive network of buses and subway trains and the occasional taxi is not only much cheaper but also is often much quicker. So, it’s probably not surprising that we recommend getting to the city by plane or by train.

Airplane

There are three major international airports that service New York City: Newark, La Guardia, and John F. Kennedy.  Newark is located in Newark, New Jersey whereas La Guardia and JFK are located in Queens (a borough of New York City).  These airports are major hubs for many popular airlines, and JFK is a popular point of entry for many international flights. So, flights are easy to find and deals can be had if you’re willing to spend some time shopping around.  When shopping for flights most websites will allow you to use “NYC” as the destination which will generally search all three airports. Be careful however as searching for a round-trip ticket using this method will sometimes generate results that have you arriving into one airport and departing from a different one.

Transportation to and from each airport requires the use of trains or a taxi.  The information below should get you started.

If you’re coming in by train

• From Newark you will need to ride the AirTrain to “Newark Liberty International Airport” stop where you can transfer to an NJ Transit train bound for Penn Station in Manhattan.  Be aware there is also a Penn Station in Newark and you may need to change trains there.  Train tickets are purchased at NJ Transit ticket machines and normally include the AirTrain and NJ Transit fares.
• From La Guardia you will need to take a bus.  The M60 bus will take you to 125th Street in Manhattan where you can get on a number of subways.
• From JFK you can take the AirTrain.  The AirTrain connects with the New York City Subway “A”, “E”, “J”, and “Z” lines.  The AirTrain connects with the “A” at the Howard Beach station.  In order to get to the airport using this method you must be on a “Far Rockaway” train, not “Lefferts Boulevard”.  Connection with the “E”, “J”, and “Z” lines is at the Sutphin Boulevard station.  You can also connect to the Long Island Rail Road to Penn Station.

Of course cabs are also an option from all airports.  Although the price can be high for a cab it will save you considerable time and headache, particularly if you have much baggage or people as there is no additional fee for additional passengers.  Avoid drivers inside the terminals and in Newark negotiate your fare beforehand as the taxi operators are not as regulated as in New York.  Currently yellow cabs charge a flat $45 from JFK to any point in Manhattan.  While in the taxi stand line consider asking others where they are headed.  It’s a great way to reduce the cost of the cab and make new friends.

Rail

Amtrak serves New York Penn Station, located in the Midtown Manhattan.

Driving

Although not recommended, driving is an option.  I-95, I-80, and I-78 all come into the city via the Holland Tunnel, Lincoln Tunnel, or the George Washington Bridge.  Tolls can run upwards of $8 for the river crossing alone and traffic can be devilish.

Where to Stay

When looking for a hotel be cautious, some aren’t what they seem.  Consult a credible source before booking your accommodations.  Staying with someone you know in the area is always a great bet or for those more daring couch surfing is always an option.  If you want to have a great experience and don’t mind a little money for it check out the Kimpton Hotels, you can even bring your four-legged traveling companion.  In addition there is a free wine hour every evening.  If you are looking to go on the cheap, NYC also has numerous hostels to choose from.  Outside that, there are literally thousands of hotels to meet most people’s taste and budget.

New York Skyline

Getting Around

New York City is served by a great mass transit system consisting of 660 miles of subway track and 208 bus routes that serve some 7.6 Million people daily.  Most subway lines and bus routes run 24/7 with reduced service during late night, holidays, and weekends.  A free subway map can be picked up at a manned ticket booth is any subway station.  Because the subway can be a little intimidating the first time you ride here are a few tips for your trip:

• Know the difference between local and express.  Express trains don’t make all stops.
• Read the signs.  When transferring trains signs will point you in the right direction.
• When ascending or descending stairs or an escalator, stay to the right.
• Be ready to exit.  During rush hour the trains can be very full.  Don’t decide at the last moment you need to get off.
• Know the stop before and after the one you want.  This will help you prepare and also serves as a backstop if you happen to miss your stop.
• When getting on a train, do not stand in front of the doors.  Stand to the side and let people off before you board.  Trust me it’s quicker.  Also, when exiting don’t stop and look for signs/maps until you are well clear.  This just slows down the people who know where they are going.
• Knowing the layout of Manhattan streets and avenues can aide your subway exit.  Many exits are marked with the intersection and the side of the street it will come up on.  Not only will this aid you in using the right exit but you won’t have to ask for directions.
• If you are not sure of something, ask.  New Yorkers have a reputation for being rude but will generally help if simply asked.

NYC is also known for yellow cabs.  There are more than 13,000 yellow cabs in the city and your chances of getting one on a cold rainy night are slim to nil.  However, most other times it’s not a big problem.  Yellow cabs are well regulated and rides will always be metered.  Less than $10 will get you a few miles and there is no charge for additional passengers.  Again, a few tips:

• Be clear on where you want to go.  The drivers may not know the name of the restaurant so give an intersection or street with cross streets. For example, if you’re headed to Katz’s Delicatessen for some pastrami on rye and a glimpse of the table from that famous scene in ‘When Harry met Sally’ you can ask your cab driver to drop you at Houston (pronounced HOW-stun, not like that city in Texas) and Ludlow.
• Available cabs will have the number on the top of the cab illuminated.  If it is extinguished it is occupied and if the outer lights are on the driver is off duty. Check out this post on Abroad’r View for more on cab tips and etiquette.
• Be ready with payment.  All yellow cabs now accept credit cards, but be ready with cash just in case.

Beyond that NYC is a great walking city, so wear comfortable shoes!! If you’re armed with a decent map and willing take to the sidewalk you’ll be rewarded with the discovery of smaller ‘local’ establishments that are off the beaten tourist path.

What to See

Food

New York is known to have some of the best restaurants on the planet.  There are plenty of very well known high end restaurants such as Per Se, Jean Georges and Daniel but there are thousands of restaurants that offer some of the best food at a much more casual atmosphere and more reasonable price.  Below are my personal favorites that I would recommend to anyone.  Keep in mind that inexpensive in NY may be skewed compared to what you are normally accustomed to.

Inexpensive

• Vanessa’s Dumpling House – If you like dumplings, don’t miss Vanessa’s.  This place is crazy cheap, and delicious.
• The Bourgeouis Pig Cafe – The cure for your fondue cravings.
• La Palapa – Great Mexican food and of course, margaritas.

Not as Inexpensive

• Blue Smoke – A phenomenal BBQ joint run by the famed Danny Meyer.  Live jazz is played seven days a week downstairs.
• The Little Owl – Casual yet upscale dining in Greenwich Village (a neighborhood on the lower east side).
• Blue Hill Farms – A restaurant inspired by an upstate farm that sources their food only from local farms.

This is just a quick list.  Check out Yelp , CitySearch and Serious Eats for more great places.

Pizza

Because it’s such a popular question I will devote a section to Pizza.  One thing that is not and never will be decided is where the best pizza is in NYC.  Instead, decide for yourself.

• Lombardi’s – The first licensed pizzeria in NYC.
• John’s – Avoid the one in Times Square and head to the original on Bleeker Street.
• Grimaldi’s – Under the Brooklyn Bridge (on the Brooklyn side) this small place offers some of the best ‘pie’ in the city.

Keep in mind, none of these places accepts reservations, you can’t get a ‘slice’ and it’s generally cash only.  It is, however worth it.

Drinks

• Dive 75 – Fun little place uptown complete with Jenga and Connect Four.
• The Little Branch – Get a lesson in all things alcohol.
• The Back Room – Enjoy your drinks in teacups, an ode to the prohibition era, in the main room.
• Death and Company – A small, dark, upscale and trendy place.
• Brandy Library Lounge – Select a glass of your favorite nightcap from what is the largest selection of brandy and scotch I have ever seen.
• The Other Room – A collection of three bars that are great for dates.

Places

There are tons of guides filled with information on what not to miss and surely you have your own list.  Here are a few places I take people who come visit.

• Grand Central Terminal – One of the icons of New York.  Check out the Campbell Apartment inside, now a bar.
• Public Library Main Reading Room – Visit the reading room
• Ellis Island – Catch the ferry at the terminal in Battery Park to visit The Statue of Liberty (reservations are required to visit her crown) and Ellis Island. Perhaps you can find your ancestors in their extensive registry.
• Central Park – Without the 843 acre park there would be 8 million crazy (crazier?) New Yorkers.
• Museums – From the Museum of Modern Art to the Museum of Natural History to the Museum of Sex and everything in between.

Resources

Google Maps (including mobile) give transit directions in NYC and if you do have a mobile version for your phone will help with walking directions as well.  There are numerous guides as well.  One favorite of mine is the Not For Tourist (NFT) Guide (Buy).

Links

• MTA – Mass Transit Authority.  The operator of NYC subways and buses.
• NJT – New Jersey Transit.  Operates Newark AirTrain and connecting train to New York Penn Station.
• Amtrak – Amtrak serves New York Penn Station.
• Newark – Newark Liberty International Airport
• La Guardia – La Guardia International Airport
• JFK – JFK International Airport

Special thanks to Elizabeth and Fu for contributions to this article.

Waiting out the rain

At Adventure Insider, we really look for adventures that are (to use a cliché) off the beaten path. We don’t want to cover the same trips that every other publication and website cover, and we really like our solitude.

Summer in the Raggeds Wilderness

This past summer, this desire led us to the Raggeds Wilderness, near Crested Butte, Colorado. There are literally hundreds of great places in Colorado for a multi-day backpacking trip, but what intrigued us about the Raggeds is that there is not much written about the area. In fact, we had a little difficulty finding which trails would meet our collective skill level (intermediate), and provide the great escape we really love.

Both of those requests were answered with the route we chose. Starting from just outside the Erickson Springs  campground (38.954157°,-107.270606°), we headed up the Dark Canyon Trail (#830). Our plan was to try to make our base camp near the beginning of Oh Be Joyful Pass trail on Silver Basin Trail (#836). Unfortunately there had been quite a bit of rain (and a few good showers that first day), so our first 6 miles were pretty slow going. By the time we got to our first big ascent “Devlis Stairway” (38.949329°,-107.192316°) the ground was muddy, sloppy, and almost impassible. Once we got up this ascent the sun was already starting to fade, so we decided to call it a night.

Heading up the trail

The next morning was much drier, so before long we were at the intersection of the Dark Canyon trail & the Silver Basin Trail. We were planning to head up silver basin trail to our base camp at the bottom of Oh Be Joyful Pass (OBJ) trail. Fortunately we picked up the Trails Illustrated map (Kebler Pass/Paonia Reservoir #133) that pointed out the fact that our original base camp was no where near water, so we decided to continue up Oh Be Joyful Pass trail to find a good spot.

Heading up the trail

Not far along the OBJ trail is a good size ridge with a great overlook to the valley below. We decided this would make a great stopping point (Base Camp: 38.937108°,-107.142046°) for the night since we needed to get some video & photos for reviews on several products (see MH Helion Tent Review & Therm-A-Rest Neo Air Review).  Although we didn’t make it, if you have the time I highly recommend you summit Oh Be Joyful pass (38.939714°,-107.115604°).

What a great view!

The next morning was a little rough for us. I was having some minor issues with my knees, and my two companions (Erick & Ed) had just previously spent 5 days in Glacier National Park. So since we had all the video & photos needed for our reviews, we decided to head down a day early. We expected to reach our vehicle (about 8 miles downhill) early in the afternoon, so we could make it to Gunnison for a nice steak dinner that night.

Views to the west

The downhill part of our trip went pretty quickly, but there were plenty of great views on the way down. The last 3-4 miles are very popular for those with horses, so watch your step. After getting back to the car, it was a short 20 minute ride to retrieve the FJ at the north parking area, and then back through Crested Butte to Gunnison for steaks and beer.

How to get there

To hike this trip from North to South (as we did) take CR-12 north from Crested Butte (you can also get to CR-12 from the north off of CO-133). You can also hike from south to north, which is less steep than our route.

Permits/Regulations

No permits are required to hike in the Raggeds Wilderness. Review all wilderness regulations for restrictions.

Outfitters

Gunnison is the closest town with several backpacking / outdoors shops. You’ll be able to find anything forgotten or missing there. Expect to pay a small premium for goods purchased in a mountain town.

Summary

This is a great trip to get away from the loads of people in many of Colorado’s back country areas during peak season.  You’ll experience several types of terrain that can be challenging at times. We’re looking forward to exploring this area again in the future.

Quick Info

Location: Raggeds Wilderness, Colorado, USA (Info)
Permits: None required.
Distance: 18mi (But several trails offer shorter/longer routes)
Difficulty (1-10): Our route was intermediate (5-6)
Maps: Kebler Pass/Paonia Reservoir Trails Illustrated #133. (Buy) Download Google Earth KML

Maybe it’s your first pair of rock shoes.  Maybe you are looking for a second pair of shoes to increase your performance.  Or maybe your current shoes kill your feet or you want some specialty shoes for a specific type of climbing.  There are many different reasons for purchasing a new pair of rock shoes but knowing what you need is the only sure way to get exactly what you want.

Types of Shoes

There are a few main types of climbing shoes and they are all designed for a specific purpose.  There are shoes for comfort while climbing all day, shoes for cracks, shoes for edging, and shoes for extremely steep and overhanging rock.  Keeping in mind many shoes overlap categories, let’s take a look at each.

Comfort Shoes

Although not a very technical term, it does sum up the purpose of these shoes.  These shoes are designed to be able to be worn all day with minimal discomfort and are generally low-cut and mid-stiffness.  They do, however sacrifice edging ability and sensitivity.  Most climbers start with shoes in the comfort category for three reasons. First, they’re inexpensive.  This is generally a concern for someone just starting a new sport, especially one that can be as expensive as climbing.  Second, although there is no such thing as a real “all-around” shoe, the comfort shoe is as close as it gets.  And third, frankly it doesn’t matter.  This is just the shoe you use until you want to increase your performance or determine you need a shoe for a specific purpose.

Examples:

• 5.10 Spire ($99.95, Buy)
• La Sportiva Cliff ($90, Buy)
• Scarpa Freestyle ($79.95, Buy)
• Evolv Royale ($79, Buy)

Sport Shoes

Sport shoes are not as comfortable, but many climbers find the trade off worth the added performance.  Sport shoes have chiseled toes and a relatively larger arch than shoes designed strictly for comfort.  Within this category shoes range from relatively stiff to extremely sensitive.  Stiff shoes are designed to hold small edges all day long and are very beneficial to climbers lacking strong foot muscles.  The drawback is the loss of sensitivity.  Over time you adapt to this and have no problem telling what is underfoot, but for climbers switching from a sensitive shoe to a stiff shoe there can be a learning curve.  Extremely sensitive shoes provide tremendous smearing ability and feel.  The downside to this type of shoe is it can become fatiguing on long face climbs with a lot of thin edging especially for people lacking strong foot muscles.

Examples:

• 5.10 Anasazi ($139.95, Buy)
• 5.10 Galileo ($134.95, Buy)
• Evolv Pontas ($115, Buy)
• Evolv Defy ($85, Buy)
• Scarpa Mago ($140, Buy)
• Scarpa Booster ($130, Buy)
• La Sportiva Miura ($140, Buy)
• La Sportiva Katana ($135, Buy)

Crack/Trad Shoes

Crack/trad climbing shoes are used for just that, crack and traditional climbing.  They differ from sport shoes in that they are designed to be more comfortable for use during long trad routes as opposed to shorter (generally one pitch) sport routes.  These shoes are designed to give the climber a toe box designed for foot jams and extra rubber and material around the front of the shoe to help it hold up to the demands of crack climbing.  Some shoes feature a higher cut to protect your ankles while climbing cracks.  These shoes are also designed with some comfort in mind as they tend to be used on longer routes and most climbers will typically not size these shoes quite as small.  Some climbers routinely size and wear them with socks as they spend a lot of time climbing in cold alpine climates.

Examples:

• La Sportiva TC Pro ($170, Buy)
• La Sportiva Tradmaster ($110, Buy)
• 5.10 Piton ($129.95, Buy)
• Scarpa Techno ($129, Buy)
• Evolv Quest-AF ($96, Buy)

Bouldering/Steep Face Shoes

There are also shoes made specifically for bouldering or steep and overhanging rock.  They are characterized by a significant down turned toe designed to help the climber get more of the shoes rubber on the rock and put more power into the big toe.  These shoes can be very uncomfortable if not sized correctly  but beneficial for those exclusively climbing very steep rock.

Examples:

• 5.10 Dragon ($139.95, Buy)
• 5.10 Jet7 ($144.95, Buy)
• La Sportiva Testarossa ($160, Buy)
• La Sportiva Solution ($155, Buy)
• Scarpa Stix ($129, Buy)

Sizing

The most important thing to remember when looking for climbing shoes is the fit of the shoe.  No matter what promises they make to improve you climbing ability, it won’t work if it doesn’t fit.  Make sure the heel doesn’t slip; and obviously you won’t get much rock climbed if you dread even putting them on.  As many manufactures have different cuts, the best place to buy your new shoes is a local retailer.  No, they’re not as inexpensive as online, but they will make sure you have the right size. If you already know what size you need or prefer to live on the edge, you can use the links to purchase your shoes and support us at the same time.

Men’s vs. Women’s

Many shoes are made with a men’s and women’s version.  Men that have a low volume may find it benificial to buy a women’s shoe while women with high volume feet may find a men’s shoe provides a better fit.  The best bet is to try them on.

Linings

One last thing to consider is the shoe made of.  You can expect an unlined leather shoe to stretch about a full size.  Lined leather shoes will stretch a half size.  While lined synthetic shoes are said not to stretch, however some models will stretch a tiny bit.

Slippers vs. Velcro vs. Lace-up

Climbing shoes are offered in a few different styles.  Slippers just slip on and off making getting in and out of them easy but lacks any way to fine tune the fit.  Velcro shoes generally have two velcro straps that still makes it simple to put on and take off but allows some fine tuning of the fit.  Finally, lace up shoes allow you to fine tune the fir the most but you sacrifice the ease of getting them on and off.  Which you decide on will be strictly a matter of personal preference.

Now that you know what you need it’s time to go out and try some different shoes on.  We have given recommendations for each type of shoe to help you get started with the manufacturer suggested retail price and a link to buy them on Amazon if you prefer.  Finally, it’s time to get out on the rock and take your new shoes for a spin.

Recommended shoes manufacturer websites:

• La Sportiva (http://www.sportiva.com/)
• 5.10 (http://www.fiveten.com/)
• Scarpa (http://www.scarpa.com/)
• Evolv (http://www.evolvesports.com/)

Petzl Adjama

I’ve climbed in Petzl harnesses for years. They were the first to the market with the auto double back buckles and I loved the ability to loosen up my leg loops while hanging out between climbs and belays. When it was time to retire my old Petzl Calidris I began shopping strictly for a Petzl harness and ended up with the Adjama. I was thrilled with the light weight and how incredibly breathable the harness is. There is nothing better for sport climbing during the summer months. The unmolded rear gear loops are great when wearing a backpack and your harness. While the harness is not excessively padded the fit is excellent. I have never experienced any pressure points while hanging, even for long periods of time. If you know anything about the Calidris harness it had two waist belt buckles so no matter what you were wearing you could always have the harness centered on you body. I was spoiled. The Adjama only has one waist belt buckle and most of the time it centered and fits well; however, the occasional day of Ice climbing led to an acceptable but less than desired fit. Like I said I was spoiled. Most harness only have one buckle. I miss the twin buckles and the ability to completely remove the harness by unthreading all of the buckles to take it off without having to step though anything at all, it just peels off (useful while wearing crampons). My only real gripe about the Adjama is the front gear loops. They sit too far forward on the waist belt. It makes the gear very easy to reach, but more times than not the gear ends up on the inside of your leg. Highly annoying when climbing long trad pitches. I thought it wouldn’t be a problem, but after just one season in the harness I am one again shopping for a new one.

Quick Review:

Design: Light weight climbing harness
Retail: $85.95 (Buy)

Why it’s hot:

• Highly Breathable
• Light Weight
• Double Back Buckles

Why it’s not:

• Front Gear Loops
• Only one waist belt buckle

http://www.petzl.com/

Therm-a-Rest Neo Air

The latest sleeping pad from a long lineage of quality products in the Therm-a-rest line from Cascade Designs delivers on it promises. Forgoing the insulation and foam that generally fills sleeping pads, the Neo Air instead uses a reflective materiel to reflect heat back to the body. This move saves quite a bit of space and weight while still managing to give the Neo Air a respectable R-rating of 2.5. The pad weighs in at a mere 13.375oz., rolls up to the size of a one liter bottle and still raises you up 2.5″ off the ground.  Our testers found this to be the most comfortable mat by a healthy margin.  Sleeping bags stay nicely on the mat without slipping off during the night and the horizontal design of the air chambers made for a great distribution of weight.  As you would expect, the pad is constructed of very lightweight materials and gentle handling is the name of the game, although on the two week test in Glacier National Park and Gunnison National Forest, the Neo Air showed no signs of a leak.  There have been some reports of some early distribution problems but these should ease with time.  If you are looking for the top of the line pad and can get past the sticker shock, the Neo Air is the only choice.  If, on the other hand, you are looking for a great pad that is about half the price, albeit slightly heavier and more bulky, check out the Big Agnes Insulated Air Core.

Also available in four sizes; small (20″x47″), medium (20″x66″), regular (20″x72″), and large (25″x77″) there is a surely a size for everyone.

Quick Review:

Design: Light weight sleeping pad
Weight: 13.375oz. (Regular)
Retail: $119.95 – $169.95 (Buy)

Why it’s hot:

• Light weight
• Great weight distribution
• Great loft
• Packs down small

Why it’s not:

• Price

http://cascadedesigns.com/

Looking Back

I headed off to Montana with the plan of backpacking the Coal/Nyack Creek Loop in the southern region of Glacier National Park.  I had seen from the online trail reports that there had been some avalanches in the area resulting in quite a few trees down and waist high river crossing about a week before my visit.  What I failed to realize from the report was the sheer numbers of trees that would have to be negotiated in order to complete the loop.  The rangers at the permit office put the number at somewhere in the ‘many hundreds’.  With that bit of information, we changed our plans.  The ranger then helped set up a trip that he was sure would be worth the effort. Worth the trip it was!

Let me start by saying I, as a general rule, try to avoid trips that require a lottery, are over-populated, and even require a permit if possible.  That said, the trip to Glacier was absolutely worth the hassle of the permitting process.  It was a fortunate set of circumstances that we happened to be at the west end of the park and started our backcountry  the following day on the east end of the park.  This required us to drive the Going-to-the-Sun Road that traverses the park east-west and is more than likely the best 50 miles you will ever drive.  Mountain goats, waterfalls, glacial valleys, and wild berries are just a few of the wonderful things you will experience on this trip.  It is worth the trip even if happens to take you out of the way.

Day 0

Small Waterfall

After dropping our car at the Chief Mountain Trailhead (our terminus) we took the shuttle to Many Glacier and acquired a hiker/biker campsite.  Although these are communal campsites it is best to inquire about them before dropping you car, cost: $5/person.  Pizza and a couple beers that evening at the Many Glacier General Store hit the spot and the next morning we hit the trail.  Now, before I divulge our itinerary I want to point out that there are so many remarkable places in Glacier that almost any combination of campsites is worth the trip.  Also keep in mind the big passes that can be downright intimidating are some of the most magnificent places to see.

Day 1

Over Ptarmigan pass and through Ptarmigan Tunnel (yes, it’s an actual tunnel).  Upon exiting the tunnel you will see Elizabeth lake far below you.  Continuing down the trail will bring Helen Lake into view along with many peaks sporting glaciers and huge waterfalls.  Further down the trail we merged with the Continental Divide Trail and eventually arrived at Elizabeth Lake (Foot) Campground.  From there it was a magnificent hike to Elizabeth Lake (Head) Campground for the night.  Here there is a little sandbar

Dawn Mist Falls

that you can ford out to for a little relaxation sitting in a glacial valley surrounded by numerous peaks and ridges.  In  hindsight I think continuing another couple miles to Helen Lake Campground would be worth the little extra effort.

Day 2

Heading back towards the foot of Elizabeth Lake and continuing to Cosley Lake Campground.  On the route we passed Dawn Mist Falls and were pleased to see a small spur that leads to the bottom of the falls.  This spur is only about a tenth of mile long is pretty much flat, making the side trip for lunch and a refreshing dip a no-brainer.  The trail is pretty flat and wandering until we reached a river fording about a half mile from the campground.  After the ford and re-installing our feet in our shoes we proceeded the last half mile where we saw a black bear scavenging berries and decided to help ourselves as well, after we were well clear of the bear.  Cosely Lake sits at the base of a cliff and is fed by the run off from Stoney Indian Pass.  A fishing pole here may serve as one of the better items to bring.  Here, each campsite is along the water with a thin stand of brush and trees and a personal trail leading to the water.  Deer are very prominent in this area and tend to crave the salt we bring along.  I caught a doe licking the handles of my trekking poles numerous times even as I approached her.

Day 3

Morning Fog in Glacier N.P.

We continued west a short distance to Mokowanis Junction Campground.  Due to the short day we decided to take a day hike after lunch and a nap.  Mokowanis Lake is reported by one guide we met, to be a great spot for a swim.  Stoney Indian Pass offers glacier pools coupled with waterfalls and steep climbing.  We chose the pass, and we not at all disappointed.  Huge waterfalls and a dip in a 58° glacial pond was what the doctor ordered.  This was by far the pinnacle of the trip and is what has me wanting to return again.

Day 4

Backtracking day.  Heading east now past Cosley Lake a few miles into Gable Creek Campground.  Hiking the vistas of the park and picking wild berries to munch on made the day memorable.

Day 5

The end of the road.  Heading out to Chief Mountain was the slowest going on the entire trip.  Made extremely muddy by the recent rains the trail was tough to negotiate and at times almost frustrating.  A steep incline followed by some wandering finishes at the Chief Mountain Trailhead.

Planning

How to get there

Bears

Both Missoula (164 mi.) and Great Falls (203 mi.) are served by major airlines with car rental services available.  Destinations closer to the park may be served by smaller airlines or connectors.  The drive to park is straight forward although there is some construction on US-93 north of Missoula as of this writing.  Another notable is the utterly delicious Montana Wheat located at the junction of US-93 and Hwy 35.  There is also a grocery store there for last minute items.  Make sure you stop for some Flathead Cherries that are grown in orchards right along your drive and sold at the numerous stands dotting the road.

Permits

Due to the popularity of the park, permits can be hard to come by for Glacier.  Advanced reservation lotteries are in effect but a certain percentage of each campground is held for walk in reservation available to day before you wish to start.  Due to the high possibility of changes, check the Glacier National Park Backcountry Camping page for up to date information.

Outfitters

Many outfitter near glacier are more than happy to help you find that item you forgot at home.  If you need a place to get a new tent, get a new sleeping bag, or get that new Therm-a-Rest Neo Air you can stop by REI in Missoula.

Summary

Waterfalls on Stoney Indian Pass

If Glacier isn’t on your list, it should be.  If it is, it should be higher.  Glacier National park is truly an amazing place to visit, it’s just a shame it’s so popular as it makes it tough to keep to the ‘insiders’.

Quick Info

Location: Glacier National Park, Montana, USA
Permits: Required.  By lottery or walk-in (see above)
Distance: Varies
Difficulty (1-10): Varies
Beta: Glacier N.P. Trails Illustrated.  Available for the whole park and in larger scale for sections of the park. (Buy)

http://www.nps.gov/glac

Toyota trucks climbing some fins

For those interested in off road and 4-wheel driving, the ‘must see’ destination is Moab, UT. Moab is known around the world as the center of the 4×4 universe, mainly due to it’s fair weather and ‘slickrock’ trails. For our first ever trip to Moab, we made the 7 hour journey from Colorado for the annual Cruise Moab event.

Cruise Moab is a Toyota-only event sponsored by the Rising Sun 4 Wheel Drive club out of Denver, CO. They’re part of the Toyota-Land Cruiser Association (TLCA), a nationwide Toyota 4×4 club. This years’ event featured over 100 Toyota 4×4 trucks, nearly 400 people, and plenty of vendors selling everything from roof racks to suspension lifts.

We managed to run two trails with the Cruise Moab group, and then set out for one on our own the last day. While there are dozens of off road trails in the Moab area, we opted to go with two of the most scenic trails for our group runs.

Narrow & steep on Elephant Hill

About 90 minutes south of Moab is Canyonlands National Park, and Elephant Hill trail. If you’re looking for a moderate trail with amazing views – this is the one to try. It will take a slightly modified vehicle (a lift and larger tires are helpful) in some sections, and a fair bit of driver skill is necessary. If you’re not new to off road driving, you should have no problem navigating the obstacles on this 17 mile trail. There is one section that requires you to back down (and then back up on the way out), so make sure you have a good spotter and take your time. Toward the end of the loop you’ll have an opportunity to hike out to an area that overlooks the Colorado River. You’ll want to plan to be on the trail for the entire day, so bring plenty of food and extra water. One other important note: while pets are allowed in the park, due to the sensitive soil they are not permitted on back country and 4×4 roads, so leave them at home for this trip.

Perhaps the most famous trail in Moab is Fins N’ Things. This easy to moderate trail gets its name due to the large rock fins that you spend most of your time driving on. This is the classic ‘slickrock’ that Moab is famous for, and Fins N’ Things has plenty of it. There are two different legs of the trail, totaling about 10 miles of trail driving. While this trail is fairly easy for experienced off road drivers, you’ll still want to make sure you have a good spotter for some of the sections. A rear differential locker is needed for some of the obstacles, but there is usually a bypass.

When you’re not on a trail in Moab, there’s still plenty to do. There are several micro-breweries in town, and many of the restaurants are top-notch. We really enjoyed the burgers and brew at the Moab Brewery, on South Main St. They feature eight types of beer, so you’re sure to find one that suits you.
For breakfast, our favorite place was the Jailhouse Café. It’s so named because it’s actually housed in the original Moab jail house. The food is excellent, but the prices are a little on the steep side.

La Sal Mountains

There are literally dozens of places to stay in Moab. If you’re ready for a regular room after a day on the trail, you have a choice of nearly every hotel chain somewhere along main street. For campers, there are a couple of really great campgrounds to choose from. The main Cruise Moab event was held at the Slickrock Campground, which is very large has plenty of trees. We opted to stay at the Moab Rim Campark, just south of downtown Moab. We were able to get a cabin that included 1 queen bed, 2 bunkbeds, a kitchenette, and a small bathroom. The best part was that Moab Rim allows pets, so our two medium sized dogs felt right at home.

If you’re in to off road driving and haven’t been, you’ll want to make plans to get out to Moab. The trails and scenery are world class, and there are plenty of fun activities to keep the entire family entertained. If you like the group feel, check out Cruise Moab, Easter Jeep Safari, or any of the other events held annually. Of course you can always just gather your friends for a self-guided tour of slickrock country. Either way, you’re sure to have an amazing time in Moab.