Scarpa Phantom 6000 -- double mountaineering boot

Double Boots

Double are similar to ski boots in design in that they have a mold-able liner with a stiff plastic or waterproof or stiff waterproof shell. These boots are most commonly used for technical mountaineering in extreme environments, like K2 or Everest but may be employed by weekend warriors who struggle with cold feet during multi-day trips. Consult an expert if you feel you need these boots and aren’t sure what to get.

Mountaineering Boots

These boots are designed for mountaineering in slightly less demanding conditions than double boots. They can range from the equivalent of heavyweight hiking boots to heavier boots designed for vertical ice and more serious mountaineering. Whereas heavier, stiffer boots perform better on snow and ice, they are less useful on the trail, and (perhaps not surprisingly) boots that perform better on the trail are less suited to the rigors of steep snow and ice. So, your intended use will determine the type of boot you need. Once you have decided on the type boot that fits your adventure needs, you should head to your local outfitter with the socks you plan on wearing. Try on several different pairs to ensure you find the fit that is best for you. While some manufactures still use leather which offers a faster break-in (but more maintenance to keep waterproof and conditioned), many are moving to high performance synthetic materials for most boots.

La Sportiva Lhotse -- heavyweight mountaineering boot

Heavyweight Mountaineering Boots

Heavyweight mountaineering boots are designed for spending lots of time on vertical ice (WI4 and above), steep snow and ice, and in truly cold conditions. A full shank will make these boots extremely stiff but allow you to use automatic or step-in crampons with ease. The shank and the high cuff will make climbing vertical ice much easier. Generally these boots are extremely waterproof and well insulated, which of course adds up to a very stiff, heavy boot. Although this is ideal in a boot if you plan on serious mountaineering, the weight and difficult break-in period keep make it a less-than-practical boot for peak baggers and weekend backpackers.

Scarpa Charmoz -- medium weight mountaineering boot

Mid-weight Mountaineering Boots

Mid-weight mountaineering boots are designed for hiking in cold temperatures and backpacking. Some models may have a half shank to allow use of automatic or step-in crampons. These boots can be used for less than vertical ice climbing (up to WI3). Mid-weight mountaineering boots are also ideal for moderately cold weather mountaineering while still offering the adequate flexibility and reduced weight to be comfortable on the trail. This is probably the ideal boot for budding mountaineers.

Asolo Lothar -- lightweight mountaineering boot

Lightweight Mountaineering Boots

Lightweight mountaineering boots are ideal for winter hiking, backpacking with large loads, cold peak bagging and approaches. Although they can be used with snowshoes and are generally stiff enough to accept strap-on crampons for limited snow and ice travel they excel on the trail, they often provide less stability over snow, ice, and very rough terrain and therefore should be reserved primarily for trail use when you don’t expect much, if any, snow or ice.

Many boot models in this category are made of leather and use other (primarily synthetic) fabrics for the side panels. The result is a reduction in weight and price but typically at the expense of stability, water resistance and durability. Although some manufactures offer Gore-Tex-treated models, many will require using a third-party waterproofing treatment, such as Nikwax.

Break-in and Boot Maintenance

The break-in can be a bit of a love, hate process. Lightweight boots have a relatively quick break-in period, whereas mid-weight boots may require on the order of 100 miles of wear for an adequate break-in. Heavy mountaineering boots may require as much as 200 miles of wear for that comfort fit, during which time it’s as much you breaking in the boots as the boots breaking you in (see sidebar for blister treatments). Experimenting with different sock combinations can ease some of the pain, but for the most part it is just a process you need to endure. That said, make sure you tough it out before heading into the backcountry. Boots that have not been broken in have no place on the mountain, trail or ice. It’s worth spending a lot of time getting to know your boots. Even prior to making your purchase, do more than just take a quick ‘up and back’ in the store. Ask the clerk if you can spend some more time walking around the store in the boots you’re considering, do the rest of your shopping in them (I mean, it’s not like we ever go to an outdoor equipment store for just one thing, right?). If you have any discomfort after an hour it spells disaster for multi-day trips. Or, at the very least, it suggests that a different brand of boot is going to be better long term. If you need to help speed up the break-in time, look into custom foot beds, but don’t skip the pre-purchase comfort test.

With proper care, most well-made mountaineering boots will last a lifetime. After every trip inspect, clean and dry your boots. First, clean off large debris and dirt with a stiff brush. Next use a gentle soap such as saddle soap or Nikwax Cleaning Gel according to manufacturer’s instructions. Allow to dry away from any heat source as heat can damage the leather and liners. If additional waterproofing is required follow the manufacturer’s instructions.

Black Diamond Cyborg crampon with automatic bindings

Compatibility With Crampons

Boots may have a welted heel, welted toe, or both. A boot with a heel welt can accept hybrid crampons while a boot featuring both welted heel and toe will accept automatic (or step-in) crampons. Boots lacking welts will require strap-on crampon bindings.

Crampon Bindings

There are three main types of crampon bindings. The type of crampon binding you decide on will be decided by your boot type. (see left)

Step-in Crampons — require a stiff boot with welts on the toe and heel. On the heel a lever keeps the crampon tight to the boot while a front bail fits into the toe welt. These are generally used on mid and heavyweight boots with a half or full shank.

Hybrid crampons — require a heel welt but do not need one on the toe. Instead a toe strap holds them in place on the toe.

Strap-on crampons — can be affixed to almost any boot. They are simply help to the boot using nylon webbing.

C.A.M.P. C12 crampon with hybrid bindings

Crampons

Crampons are boot attachments that feature metal spikes to provide traction on snow and ice. They come in different configurations, are made of different materials, and have different methods of attaching to boots. It’s a good idea to take you boots with you when purchasing crampons. While most stores will be able to get you a crampon you can take home and affix to your boots there is peace of mind that comes with leaving the store knowing you are ready to start your adventure. Again, the type and binding of crampon you settle on will be decided by their intended use.

Crampon Types

Rigid crampons — are designed for climbing vertical ice (WI4 and above). The crampons are constructed to provide no flex and therefore may take some time to get used to and are not suitable for trail use, but they provide the most stable platform when front-pointing vertical ice.

Semi-rigid — crampons provide some flex — essential for walking on icy trails or glaciers — yet they will also provide a stiff platform for climbing less-than-vertical steep ice (up to WI3). This balance of walking and climbing performance makes this style of crampon the best choice for general mountaineering (and also the most common type of crampon available).

Flexible crampons — are generally attached to the boot with straps and are the most comfortable crampon for walking on icy trails because they allow the user to maintain a relatively normal stride. They do not, however, provide any stability for climbing and thus are best suited for occasional use on low grade terrain.

Grivel G10 crampons with strap-on bindings

Materials

Crampons are generally made from a high-strength steel alloy and will last many seasons with proper care. There are also crampons made from lightweight aluminum that are best employed for occasional use — a multi-day trip where crampons will be needed near a summit but you don’t want to be carrying steel in your backpack for the remainder of the trek.

Points

Good crampons will generally have between 10 and 14 points. 10 point crampons are generally reserved for occasional use, whereas general mountaineering crampons will normally have 12 points, and crampons designed for climbing vertical ice will typically have 14. The point orientation will also have an effect on the utility of the crampon for specific applications. Mountaineering crampons will normally have two horizontal front points and the second row will be more vertical allowing good penetration in ice while walking. Crampons designed for ice climbing may have one or two front points orientated vertically for strength with the second row angled toward the toe to make front-pointing easier.

Crampon Maintenance

Crampons will last many years with proper care. Always inspect your crampons before and after each trip and repair or replace damaged linking bars, straps or bails. Sharpen points with a hand file as they dull. Carrying a hand file with you on long trips may be necessary.

'Crack/trad shoes' - Scarpa Techno

Maybe it’s your first pair of rock shoes.  Maybe you are looking for a second pair of shoes to increase your performance.  Or maybe your current shoes kill your feet or you want some specialty shoes for a specific type of climbing.  There are many different reasons for purchasing a new pair of rock shoes but knowing what you need is the only sure way to get exactly what you want.

Types of Shoes

There are a few main types of climbing shoes and they are all designed for a specific purpose.  There are shoes for comfort while climbing all day, shoes for cracks, shoes for edging, and shoes for extremely steep and overhanging rock.  Keeping in mind many shoes overlap categories, let’s take a look at each. When trying on climbing shoes attempt to place you foot in positions you will encounter while climbing.  Most reputable gear shop will at least have a couple of climbing holds on a wall you can step onto.  Worst case, while wearing both shoes ensure you are able to rock forward onto your toes, if you experience discomfort try another size or a different shoe.

Comfort Shoes

'Comfort shoes' - 5.10 Spire

Although not a very technical term, it does sum up the purpose of these shoes.  These shoes are designed to be able to be worn all day with minimal discomfort and are generally low-cut and mid-stiffness.  They do, however sacrifice edging ability and sensitivity.  Most climbers start with shoes in the comfort category for three reasons. First, they’re inexpensive.  This is generally a concern for someone just starting a new sport, especially one that can be as expensive as climbing.  Second, although there is no such thing as a real “all-around” shoe, the comfort shoe is as close as it gets.  And third, frankly it doesn’t matter.  This is just the shoe you use until you want to increase your performance or determine you need a shoe for a specific purpose.

Examples:

• 5.10 Spire
• La Sportiva Cliff
• Scarpa Freestyle
• Evolv Royale

Sport Shoes

'Sport shoes' - La Sportiva Miura

Sport shoes are not as comfortable, but many climbers find the trade off worth the added performance.  Sport shoes have chiseled toes and a relatively larger arch than shoes designed strictly for comfort.  Within this category shoes range from relatively stiff to extremely sensitive.  Stiff shoes are designed to hold small edges all day long and are very beneficial to climbers lacking strong foot muscles.  The drawback is the loss of sensitivity.  Over time you adapt to this and have no problem telling what is underfoot, but for climbers switching from a sensitive shoe to a stiff shoe there can be a learning curve. Extremely sensitive shoes provide tremendous smearing ability and feel.  The downside to this type of shoe is it can become fatiguing on long face climbs with a lot of thin edging especially for people lacking strong foot muscles. Sizing these shoes can be more difficult as the toe boxes of these shoes vary greatly.  It is important to try on different shoes and make sure you have something that fits your foot well.  This is not the time to order the new “greatest ever” shoe on the internet without trying them on.

Examples:

• 5.10 Anasazi
• 5.10 Galileo
• Evolv Pontas
• Evolv Defy
• Scarpa Mago
• Scarpa Booster
• La Sportiva Miura
• La Sportiva Katana

Crack/Trad Shoes

'Crack/trad shoe' - La Sportiva TC Pro

Crack/trad climbing shoes are used for just that, crack and traditional climbing.  They differ from sport shoes in that they are designed to be more comfortable for use during long trad routes as opposed to shorter (generally one pitch) sport routes.  These shoes are designed to give the climber a toe box designed for foot jams and extra rubber and material around the front of the shoe to help it hold up to the demands of crack climbing.  Some shoes feature a higher cut to protect your ankles while climbing cracks.  These shoes are also designed with some comfort in mind as they tend to be used on longer routes and most climbers will typically not size these shoes quite as small.  It is very important to make sure your toes lay nearly, if not completely, flat in the shoe.  Foot jams are not a pleasant experience for many climbers and having the right shoe sized properly can make the difference between looking at a summit to looking down from a summit.

Examples:

• La Sportiva TC Pro
• La Sportiva Tradmaster
• Scarpa Techno
• Evolv Quest-AF
• 5.10 Grandstone
• 5.10 Copperhead

Bouldering/Steep Face Shoes

'Bouldering/steep face shoes' - La Sportiva Testarosa

There are also shoes made specifically for bouldering or steep and overhanging rock.  They are characterized by a significant down turned toe designed to help the climber get more of the shoes rubber on the rock and put more power into the big toe.  These shoes can be very uncomfortable if not sized correctly but beneficial for those exclusively climbing very steep rock. Again, it is very important to get a shoe that fits your foot.  You are are going to get very tired and discouraged if you have to remove you shoes after every attempt at a boulder problem.

Examples:

• 5.10 Blackwing
• 5.10 Dragon
• 5.10 Jet7
• La Sportiva Testarossa
• La Sportiva Solution
• Scarpa Stix
• Evolv Talon
• Evolv Predator

Sizing

The most important thing to remember when looking for climbing shoes is the fit of the shoe.  No matter what promises they make to improve you climbing ability, it won’t work if it doesn’t fit.  Make sure the heel doesn’t slip; and obviously you won’t get much rock climbed if you dread even putting them on.  As many manufactures have different cuts, the best place to buy your new shoes is a local retailer.  Yes, they are more expensive than buying online, but they will make sure you have the right size.

Men’s vs. Women’s

Many shoes are made with a men’s and women’s version.  Men that have a low volume may find it beneficial to buy a women’s shoe while women with high volume feet may find a men’s shoe provides a better fit.  Again, your best bet is to try them on.

Linings

One last thing to consider is the shoe made of.  You can expect an unlined leather shoe to stretch up to a full size.  Lined leather shoes may stretch half a size.  While lined synthetic shoes are said not to stretch, however some models will stretch a tiny bit.

Slippers vs. Velcro vs. Lace-up

Climbing shoes are offered in a few different styles.  Slippers just slip on and off making getting in and out of them easy but lacks any way to fine tune the fit.  Velcro shoes generally have two Velcro straps that still makes it simple to put on and take off but allows some fine tuning of the fit.  Finally, lace up shoes allow you to fine tune the fit the most but you sacrifice the ease of getting them on and off.  Which you decide on will be strictly a matter of personal preference.

Now That You’ve Found Your Shoes…

So after an extensive search you have found a pair of shoes that fit you feet well. Since you don’t want to have to replace them right away it is important to take care of them. Do this by keeping them clean, it’s obvious you don’t want to wear them all day at the base of rock walking though fine dirt and mud as that will force dirt and small rocks into the soles. This is going to reduce the friction the soles of your shoes are able to create. As a rule of thumb if you are trying to keep your rope out of it you should try to keep your shoes out of it. If you do need to clean your shoes you can do so by hand. To clean the soles take a clean cloth and do a little scrubbing.  You can also take sand paper and lightly go over the soles, do this in a back to front manner and avoid side to side motion. It should be obvious that if you do this after every climb you will shorten the life of your shoes significantly.

Do what you can to avoid direct sunlight and heat.  While climbing on the sunshine slab may make this difficult, put your shoes in the shade when you are not climbing.  The base of your shoes are held in place by glue that is heated during the application of the sole.  Allowing your shoes to get hot will reduce the bond between your shoes and their soles potentially allowing them to delaminate, shortening their lifespan and reducing their performance.

If you spend much time at the local crag you have probably seen many climbers with big fancy backpacks with plenty  of room who have their shoes clipped onto the outside of their packs.  This is so those shoes can have the chance to dry out and get a little fresh air in an attempt to keep them from stinking.  Some climbers keep a dryer sheet in their shoes to help keep them dry and smelling fresh-ish.  One last note, if you are going to have your shoes re-soled (after all they are already broken in) do the re-soler a favor and either wash them by hand and give them a chance to dry, or stick them in the freezer for a couple of days.  The cold will kill the bacteria that makes them smell.  While this will only last until the next time you wear them but your re-soler will greatly appreciate it.

Recommended shoes manufacturer websites:

• La Sportiva (http://www.sportiva.com/)
• 5.10 (http://www.fiveten.com/)
• Scarpa (http://www.scarpa.com/)
• Evolv (http://www.evolvesports.com/)

This lightweight wool next to skin base layer should be an essential for anyone doing cold weather activities. This Athletically fitted crew neck shirt has long sleeves and offers thumb holes to keep it getting bunched up under other layers. Even giving your hand a little extra heat inside gloves. All of Stoic shirts are somewhat stylish and would look just fine spending time at the bar after making your final tracks of the day. Although I would probably wear another shirt or a vest over it to keep from being “That Guy.” But at least it won’t smell bad when you offer to buy the cute ski bunny a beverage.

Design: Ultra-fine Merino Wool base layer
Retail: $59 (Buy)
Why it’s hot:

• Athletic Cut
• Thumb Holes
• Better Looking Than Plain Base Layers

Why it’s not:

• Thumb Holes Could Be a Tad Bigger
• Lighter colored fabrics are a little see though

http://stoicgear.com

Smartwool Midweight Boot Top Bottoms

I can’t believe it took me so long to get something like the Midweight Boot Top Bottom. I’ve used them countless times in only their first season. Incredibly comfortable they have a covered elastic waistband and flat lock seams. They are great under ski pants, climbing pants, or jeans while sticking it out though a cold fall football game. The length overlaps ski socks by a couple of inches and gives you one less thing to have to deal with around your ski boots or climbing shoes.

Quick Review:

Design: Ultra-fine Merino Wool base layer
Weight: 7oz
Retail: $70 (Buy)
Why it’s hot:

• Exceptionally Comfortable
• Length doesn’t interfere with ski boots

Why it’s not:

• I only have one pair

http://www.smartwool.com

Smartwool Sport NTS Crew

I’ll never go back. I have spend all of my adventure life wearing Patagonia poly-capaline. I didn’t know it could get better, but I was wrong. Not that the synthetic base layers are bad, mine still see some use. But there really is no comparison. The Smartwool’s 100% wool Sport STS Crew is just in another league. It’s has a considerable better feel next to your skin, is more formfitting and also allows for better range of motion. Made with flatlock seams it’s easy to forget your wearing it. However, my favorite thing about the Sport NTS Crew is length of the sleeves. I am 6’1” tall 175lbs and have a 3 ½” ape index. Finding any long sleeve shirt with the proper sleeve length usually means going up a size and having to accept swimming in it. Last but surely not last, it doesn’t smell bad, ever. In contrast my Patagonia base layers are worn with sleeves pulled up to my forearms and have to be kept at a distance as no amount of washing or fabreeze can rid them of their stink. I am anxious to see how well it holds up to wear and tear. I’m not worried about having it under my ski gear, but climbing off-width desert crack during our annual fall or winter desert climbing trips. Look for updates.

Design: Ultra-fine Merino Wool base layer
Weight: 10.2oz
Retail: $80 (Buy)
Why it’s hot:

• Incredibly Comfortable
• Athletic Cut With Long Sleeves
• Doesn’t Smell

Why it’s not:

• Pricier Than Synthetic materials.
• Durability?

http://www.smartwool.com

Petzl Adjama

I’ve climbed in Petzl harnesses for years. They were the first to the market with the auto double back buckles and I loved the ability to loosen up my leg loops while hanging out between climbs and belays. When it was time to retire my old Petzl Calidris I began shopping strictly for a Petzl harness and ended up with the Adjama. I was thrilled with the light weight and how incredibly breathable the harness is. There is nothing better for sport climbing during the summer months. The unmolded rear gear loops are great when wearing a backpack and your harness. While the harness is not excessively padded the fit is excellent. I have never experienced any pressure points while hanging, even for long periods of time. If you know anything about the Calidris harness it had two waist belt buckles so no matter what you were wearing you could always have the harness centered on you body. I was spoiled. The Adjama only has one waist belt buckle and most of the time it centered and fits well; however, the occasional day of Ice climbing led to an acceptable but less than desired fit. Like I said I was spoiled. Most harness only have one buckle. I miss the twin buckles and the ability to completely remove the harness by unthreading all of the buckles to take it off without having to step though anything at all, it just peels off (useful while wearing crampons). My only real gripe about the Adjama is the front gear loops. They sit too far forward on the waist belt. It makes the gear very easy to reach, but more times than not the gear ends up on the inside of your leg. Highly annoying when climbing long trad pitches. I thought it wouldn’t be a problem, but after just one season in the harness I am one again shopping for a new one.

Quick Review:

Design: Light weight climbing harness
Retail: $85.95 (Buy)

Why it’s hot:

• Highly Breathable
• Light Weight
• Double Back Buckles

Why it’s not:

• Front Gear Loops
• Only one waist belt buckle

http://www.petzl.com/