Things I Learned While Learning to Surf
I recently took the opportunity to try to get better at surfing. While I was in Costa Rica I tried my hand at surfing by taking a lesson. I manged to stand up a few times and by the end of the two hour instruction period I managed to ride waves to the beach. I recently met some people who are avid surfers. When I was asked if I wanted to tag along for a trip to Long Beach, New York for a day of riding the waves I jumped at the chance. “Consistent chest it says. Should be a good day.” my friend says, checking the surf report. And thus begins my second day of surfing. Below are some of the lessons I learned that day
- When someone who has been surfing for 20 years says it’s a good day. Be worried. It turns out I was pretty out of my league for my experience level.
- On the same note, opt for a day with smaller waves. The 3 foot range is good. Too big and it’s just a cause for frustration.
- Wear a rash guard. As fun as wax in your chest hair and painful nipples sound…they aren’t.
- Keep your day short. For someone inexperienced 45 minutes is a long time. Give it a couple of rounds and call it a day.
As you can tell I had a rough day. With the exception of the last lesson, I had to learn them the hard way. All said and done I do plan to dust myself off and try surfing another day. Maybe a day that has smaller swells.
Have a good learning to surf lesson? Post it in the comments below.









0 Comments
You can be the first one to leave a comment.